Pretty sure....... Reply #60 – February 23, 2016, 11:48:59 AM Well I wouldn't go any thicker than necessary, assuming you can't stick your pinky between the rod bearings and crank the M1 5W-50 looks like it'd do the job... Plus has a good viscosity index number meaning it requires less viscosity index improvers to achieve the grade... In the real world I dunno how much if any difference that makes, may be just a feel good to know there's a better ratio of oil to VII... In a engine that has roller lifters and rockers, I don't know of any reason extra zinc would be beneficial... There is still as much zinc in oils today as there were in oils up to early '60s, it was the Hi-Po engines with high spring pressures that forced the need for increase... Quote Selected
Pretty sure....... Reply #61 – February 23, 2016, 12:07:13 PM Quote from: thunderjet302;453996I still don't know why you guys are running such thick oil. My stock rebuild 302 is happy as a pig in slop with synthetic 10W30. No noises, knocking, or chattering and good oil pressure.And it should, still a 10W-30(at least in synthetic) is going to be obsolete one of these days... Makes no sense to have a oil that's thicker cold when there are now better choices... Any oil you can buy is from 20 to maybe 50-70x thicker cold than necessary, there is no such thing as thin oil at below freezing... I run 5W-30 in my newer stuff and probably will the 331... The old 428 no doubt likely has double the bearing clearance necessary, already has a HV pump to get the pressure I'd mentioned... Without the HV pump it probably would not idle 10 psi... Quote Selected
Pretty sure....... Reply #62 – February 26, 2016, 10:13:25 PM Well as long as synthetic 10W30 is available I'll be running it. When it's gone I guess it'll be time to switch to 5W30. Quote Selected
Pretty sure....... Reply #63 – February 29, 2016, 11:37:20 PM I should try thin oil and listen to the way it sounds I can't remember the last time I had the luxury of running normal people oil Quote Selected
Pretty sure....... Reply #64 – March 01, 2016, 09:04:36 AM Scott how much oil does your engine use?? Any appreciable amount of leak???Assuming it isn't swilling oil a 5/10W-40 should be fine... Most are going to be a bit thinner hot than the 15W-40(and far thinner cold), but still should run without issue... Beauty of the 15W-40 is it's cheap and other than maybe causing some sluggish cranking at temps below 5*F it's a great choice in a high milage engine, especially if you're running lots of highway miles... Getting late in season now, but maybe next winter try some 5W-40 turbo or truck oil to see if you notice improved cold weather cranking... Of course there is always 0W-40 Mobil 1, probably the best all round oil on the shelf... Still it's a light 40 just slightly above 30 spec where most 15W-40 are probably nearer 50 weight when hot...Speaking of 0W-40, Auto Zone was having a $2 quart clearance back in Dec and I picked up enough Pennzoil Platinum SRT(meets Chry Hemi specs), for probably two years... Both my Mercurys and the beater F-150 are going to see a steady diet of the stuff starting this month... AZ also had 10W-30 & 40 M1 on the same $2 close out, all but two quarts of that was gone... Quote Selected
Pretty sure....... Reply #65 – March 01, 2016, 09:47:47 AM Just for fun I may try this in my Thunderbird at it's next oil change:https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-high-mileageThe high milage 10W30 is thicker at 100°C than the regular 10W30 but not so thick as the 10W40 or 0W40. Not that the engine needs it but the high milage 10W30 might offer a bit more protection when I beat on the car at the track. Quote Selected
Pretty sure....... Reply #66 – March 01, 2016, 10:50:27 PM You guys just need to do what i do. Let it eat a quart or two a week then you won't care what oil you are running. I wait for it to start making sewing machine noises then dump two quarts in. More on paydays . Quote Selected
Pretty sure....... Reply #67 – March 02, 2016, 07:54:04 AM I'm convinced that the rear main seal leak I had when I first purchased the car all those years ago (EIGHTEEN!!!!) contributed to the undercarriage being completely rust free. The car never dripped on the ground and the air while moving was enough to make the oil go from the rear main seal to the undercarriage. When I finally fixed it, the bottom of the car looked as if I had applied rhino liner. Some of it it STILL there. I refuse to take it off and have told anyone else who has worked on the car to not touch it ass well. It's dried and cracking at this point. Only about 1/3 remains, but hey it did it's not so intended job in my opinion.The shaging truck is killing me..... Gotta call the glass guy today. New windshield...... Quote Selected
Pretty sure....... Reply #68 – March 02, 2016, 09:48:40 AM Quote from: thunderjet302;454066Just for fun I may try this in my Thunderbird at it's next oil change:https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-high-mileageThe high milage 10W30 is thicker at 100°C than the regular 10W30 but not so thick as the 10W40 or 0W40. Not that the engine needs it but the high milage 10W30 might offer a bit more protection when I beat on the car at the track.It looks better than the std 10W-30 but if I were going to use HM would be the 5W-30... It's thinner at 40*C(but still 7x too thick for optimum[my optimum is 11 to 13 @ 100c]) which would beneficial in a partially warmed engine on the drag strip... If I were only going to race my Bird, I'd use 5W-20 as oil temp is rarely over 160*... But cruising at 70 mph & full operating temp I'd be uncomfortable with it... If there was such a oil that was say 12 cSt from 0 to 150c, I'd be all over it... As would all the racers... Such oil may well exist for aerospace but probably $10,000 a quart... Quote Selected
Pretty sure....... Reply #69 – March 02, 2016, 06:30:24 PM The HM 5W30 and 10W30 are virtually identical at 100*C.I need an oil temp gauge. That would be beneficial at the track. I've thought about running 10W40 but that stuff is too thick for my liking. Quote Selected
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