Building bruiser

Topic: Building bruiser (Read 4874 times) previous topic - next topic

Building bruiser

Reply #15 – August 11, 2014, 12:18:23 PM

By now you guys most likely figured out i am a resourceful guy. But actually i graduated from St Johns with a mechanical engineering degree so i come up with little things that people take for granted while building engines. As you know bruiser is a 2.3 and the cam bolt that holds on the cam gear is drilled and tapped directly in to the oil system. So ford says to wrap Teflon tape around the bolt and install it. I say Bullshiznit that will allow the tape access to the oil spirt holes in the cam lobes and has the potential to clog them. So what i do is put a select washer behind the bolt and stock washer and install a heavy duty O RING. The washer stack or shim has to fit inside the gear hub and be .230 Thousands of an inch thick. Or be below the stock washer by app .030-.040 bellow the gear hub. This way the O ring is pressed in to the relief ground in every 2.3 cam and sits on the smooth shoulder of the stock bolt. Then there is no need for the Teflon tape. Bellow is how it is done for all that cares i guess. Just another tip i am passing along for kicks and giggles. dad always told me never use my head for a HAT RACK. have a great day guys!!

Building bruiser

Reply #16 – August 11, 2014, 04:21:44 PM

Quote from: TOM Renzo;436987

Very nice. Can you street drive it FILLED that much. I would think not. Am i wrong. That is sweet MAN!!! Thanks for the photo. Have a great day guys

I checked with several people running it this way and they have no cooling issues on the street. I may put an oil cooler on the car to supplement the stock cooling system when I run this particular block.

Building bruiser

Reply #17 – August 12, 2014, 12:22:53 PM

Quote from: Pressure cooked chicken;436970

The trusty 8993 or 1035 work better on our motors than the MLS stuff. I tried a Mr. Gasket MLS and it leaked between the steel layers. After the first time leaking, I removed it, separated the layers, cleaned everything and sprayed everything with copperkote spray and re-installed it.....still leaked. Heaved it into the trash and now run a 8993 with stainless o-rings installed in the block. Works like a charm.

Very interesting that you are able to still use the 8993.

The block for the engine I am putting together for my car is also o-ringed (the machine shop just "assumed" that I wanted it done) and I was expecting to have to resort to using a copper head gasket. I would much prefer to use the 8993 or 1035 instead if I can get away with it.

I think I have a spare 8993 laying around. I should put it on there and snug the head down to see wear the wire imprint falls on the gasket.

Building bruiser

Reply #18 – August 12, 2014, 03:06:30 PM

Thanks for the info Tom! I didn't O-ring my block because I figured its easier to change a head gasket instead of splitting a block. I am building my 2.3 with an He-351 and am hoping for 400hp. I will def watch this thread.

Building bruiser

Reply #19 – August 12, 2014, 03:59:28 PM

BCA, your o-rings look like they were done just like mine...005-.007" out of the block. If that is the case, then yes, the 8993 will work fine with it. When you go copper, you usually want the o-ring up out of the deck .020" or more as well as a reciever groove in the head so the copper gets pushed into the groove.

lakenheath, I understand the thought process on the HG being a "fuse", but the problem is the HG is too weak of a fuse IMO. Splitting the block? Maybe if you are running 1000+hp and things horribly wrong, lol! Trust me, I am the poster child of tearing these engines up. Run good pistons and RODS....did I say GOOD RODS...and by the way don't forget the rods. 400hp and stock rods equals this:

Building bruiser

Reply #20 – August 12, 2014, 04:52:30 PM

Quote from: Pressure cooked chicken;437047

BCA, your o-rings look like they were done just like mine...005-.007" out of the block. If that is the case, then yes, the 8993 will work fine with it. When you go copper, you usually want the o-ring up out of the deck .020" or more as well as a reciever groove in the head so the copper gets pushed into the groove.

I'll measure the height of them to be sure, but this is great news for me if you have been having no problems with them and the stock gasket. Thanks!

Building bruiser

Reply #21 – August 13, 2014, 06:45:56 AM

Vent the block would have been a better choice of words. Thx for the info on the rods. I rebuilt with 600$ pjstons and left the stock rods in cuz I thought those and the stock crank can take 400hp. Guess I need to rethink?

Building bruiser

Reply #22 – August 13, 2014, 11:41:58 AM

Actually the stock rods are pretty beefy. And can take at least 380 as i have actually run one this way. Not to say better rods are a big plus. I thing the HP is not the issue as much as the RPM Band. have a great day guys.

Building bruiser

Reply #23 – August 14, 2014, 09:19:14 PM

Here we go remote mount intake air temp sensor. Drill a hole for mounting and sensor. Then mount on one of the front lights of the turbo coupe behind the headlight. Presto cool air flow over sensor. You 5.0 guys can benefit from this also

The CTS can also be moved as i blocked off the coolant path in the lower intake. No heat more Ponies??

Fan control sensor best location. On 180* Off 165*

Need to torque the cam bolt and dizzy bolt for the cog gears. here is the tools

Initial install of Dizzy for a quick start after a belt change or dizzy removal. The cap hold down screw holes should be perpendicular to the block with the square one to the rear of the car. Then line up the second slot after the alignment rotor slot with it pointing to the square boss on the PIP. this will put you on 10* BTDC for a clean easy start. Then remove the spout and time as usual. Paint some antiseize compound on the cap screws. You will thank me for this when replacing caps down the road. Those screws bust off all the time OOPS!!!

Building bruiser

Reply #24 – August 15, 2014, 01:28:23 PM

I always use this tool to hold the cam and aux. shaft gears while torquing them down.

Building bruiser

Reply #25 – August 15, 2014, 01:48:44 PM

That works but for 3 bucks i just wanted to post other options. I have that tool somewhere in the shop. Thanks for posting it.

Building bruiser

Reply #26 – August 15, 2014, 06:17:30 PM

Hey I'm all for coming up with cheap solutions - and sharing them with everyone is even better!

Building bruiser

Reply #27 – August 15, 2014, 08:52:32 PM

Know i know what it is , IT is an AC clutch holding fixtuer to tighten the clutch nut. Yep i have one. Forgot about that because i install the whole compressor when they go bad. Thanks again> Have a great weekend guys!!

Building bruiser

Reply #28 – August 15, 2014, 09:17:49 PM

WOW WHAT A DAY WHAT A DAY, I finished up Bruiser this morning and drove it for app 30 Miles to get everything used to each other. Then back to the shop for you got it. DYNO TIME. Well before the mods she put down 151HP and 144 FTLBS of torque at 5500 Rpm's. NOW she put down a WOPPING 224 HP and 230 FTLBS of torque at 5500 Rpm"s. That is an increase of 87 HP and 86 FTLBS of torque. This is great to say the least. I am blown away by this. Naturally it is nothing compared to other cars i have but a great improvement on this car. So i gained this at a cost of 1100 bucks total. No labor of course and i am as happy as a clam. She drives smooth and pulls real hard from 2300-6100. Tom JR took it for a spim and was also impressed with it. Tomorrow i clean her up check all the fluids once again and drive her to the cruse tomorrow night. How to find some 5.0 mustang to tangle with. Have a great evening guys

Building bruiser

Reply #29 – August 16, 2014, 12:41:14 AM

Tom, moving the air charge intake sensor, doesn't that effect the cars adaptive fuel strategy? I've heard that it can make things run a bit rich since it is generally located in the lower intake manifold for us 5.0 guys.

This thread is a lot more interesting then your ls builds