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Topic: new issue (Read 5975 times) previous topic - next topic

Reply #45 – February 25, 2013, 09:17:15 PM

If you have 40 psi you are good. But check the dip stick for raw fuel. Or run the car with the Vacuum line removed and see if fuel comes out of the NIPPLE. Other than that you will have to go back to basics and check compression firing order and static timing. Also check all injectors with a NOID LIGHT. Also check every plug wire for proper spark. Is the spark STRONG. Blue in color and app 3/4 inch long. Also double check the firing order. Good luck Tom

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Reply #46 – February 25, 2013, 11:07:39 PM

Quote from: TOM Renzo;410040

Or run the car with the Vacuum line removed and see if fuel comes out of the NIPPLE.

This. If the engine runs better, or as Tom mentions fuel comes out of the vac fitting on the fuel reg, then that's at least some of your problem. I think it's safe to say you have a rich problem. (not to be confused with the rich problem that Donald Trump has, heh.)

By the way, did you ever pull the distributor out, and if you did, you may have to re-time the engine, starting from scratch, and setting the dist. just right.

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Reply #47 – February 25, 2013, 11:21:52 PM

Or, run codes.

This will more likely then not tell you your problem. It takes 5 mins, and you already have everything you need if you have really checked power at the injectors.

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Reply #48 – February 26, 2013, 06:25:33 AM

There has to be power to the injectors the car starts!! He needs to check PULSES.

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Reply #49 – February 26, 2013, 07:46:28 PM

I ran codes I think lol im almost sure I did it right only codes I got was 48 52 12 48 23 I will redo this tomorrow to confirm its right but the computer may have reset because I did switch those computers out but I put the original da1 I had first installed back in.

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Reply #50 – February 26, 2013, 07:47:36 PM

I have not been able to check pulses yet tom I just got home and its cold wet and dark out so I will try to tomorrow I'm going to start over stabbing distributor and take all the plug wires off and reset them also.

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Reply #51 – February 26, 2013, 07:53:08 PM

Code 23 is a tps outside of range code. Test the green pin for voltage, doing an easy slow sweep. Should be 1.27v or lower at idle and go to 2.5v's or sohigher then the base.

48 is idle too high? Maybe maf? Mesured airflow too high.

52 is power steering switch always too high. Ignore this one, it shouldn't effect driveability.

Code 12 is cannot control rpm's during test. This points to a bad tps as well.

Re-run codes, making sure they are accurate, they should repeat so you should get two sets of identicle codes.

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Reply #52 – February 26, 2013, 07:57:15 PM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9QSiS6wf7oU&sns=em

This is my video of key on engine running. Watch how the needle reacts to get a better idea of codes.

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Reply #53 – February 26, 2013, 08:03:36 PM

ok got it thats a good video for comparability yeah it may have been idled to high the car has a 65 mm throttle body that has a slightly bigger hole drilled in it, i forgot to mention I done a koeo test as it wont idle right now long enough to do a test. When you try to give it gas while running it just shuts off.

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Reply #54 – February 26, 2013, 09:56:34 PM

so I did go out and reset distributor took all wires off and reset them also still nothing different was the same as it was. Just updating

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Reply #55 – February 27, 2013, 05:44:06 PM

I do have injector pulse tom

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Reply #56 – February 27, 2013, 06:35:11 PM

Check for vac leaks, do a base idle reset if possible, clean your maf, replace/check tps. With a tps/maf code, you will have issues keeping the car running. The maf will also effect your air/fuel ratio.

Base idel reset, get car running, unplug iac sensor. The car should lug down a bit, adjust throttle body screw till it barely runs, then plug iac back in, end of procedure. However, you should fix your tps sensor and maf code first, as well as check your fpr for a leak first.

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Reply #57 – February 27, 2013, 07:04:12 PM

Proper MIN IDLE is set with a WORM engine to achieve 750-800 RPM (stock cam only) with IAC disconnected. Then adjust TPS to 1V Do not set the idle to a barely run condition. That is incorrect . The TPS can be adjusted anywhere between .5 & 1 volt to be adjusted properly. If you are still having issues you need to check compression and vacuum leaks. Have the engine smoke tested for vacuum leaks. Your fuel pressure is OK as you posted 40 PSI which is correct. Once again check for a strong spark at the plugs. Also check the other sensors. Post all your modifications and make sure the timing is set correctly. IS IT?? Good luck

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Reply #58 – February 27, 2013, 07:18:19 PM

I believe the EEC will act different when you hold the throttle down and try cranking? I used to have issues (I forgot about this until now - perhaps I still have them...) where I'd get into a state of bad idle and then the engine would still. Trying to crank again would not start unless I went WOT and cranked it. I THINK this will try to insert more fuel, to at least account for the throttle body being open more? I thought I remember reading somewhere that the EEC senses the WOT and does something different more than just compensate for the expected airflow with the open throttle.

It puts the ECM in CLEAR FLOOD MODE. Injectors do not pulse when the accelerator is floored and cranking. Just saw this post!!

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Reply #59 – February 27, 2013, 08:14:04 PM

I am just plain lost guys I've checked for vaccum leaks and fpr leaks and nothing. Tomorrow I'm gonna check for pulse at all injectors I checked two today the two front ones I have the upper off so i will check them all tomorrow.

Tonight I set the timing way off and the car crunk and ran for about a minute total then shut off its blowing something out of the throttle body as it idles.. the timing was set at 16 advanced with the spout out I'm so lossed with this car as I said before I've had over 20 foxbody mustangs and never had these problems as I said I drove the car for about a month before it broke down doing nothing mechanically while I was driving the car. The whole time I had the car running as stated before, when you would get into the gas pedal it would act as if it were not getting enought fuel or timing was to advanced sounded like it was going somewhere but didnt and the day it broke down it did this and everytime it did it I would let out and I came to a stop and gave it gas to take off and it shut off hasn't ran since. Aside from the rough idle when its running.

The car had the distributor dropped in right and all so I know its all right.

Tonight I said screw it and took the front cover off to make sure timing chain was still right, I put a new one in it before I dropped it in the t bird.

mods go as followed: mustang motor top to bottom

gt40 heads with 1.7 rockers
stock mustang cam
speed density with correct da1 computer for t-5
stock mustang upper and lower
65mm throttle body and spacer
stock exhaust until I get it back going I have mac shorties and off road h pipe