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Topic: new issue (Read 5977 times) previous topic - next topic

Reply #15 – February 23, 2013, 02:43:46 AM

The first step for trouble shooting any probem should be to check codes imho.
I'llfind you a link to a good no start thread, but you can rule out the computer basically as long as you have fuel pressure of any sort. Next most likely is a sensor or timing issue.

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Reply #16 – February 23, 2013, 02:46:04 AM

http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=588.0

Not sure it will help any, where the car will start and run though. This is where codes come in handy.

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Reply #17 – February 23, 2013, 04:47:19 AM

Quote from: 88hotbird;409817

yeah I cant get it to crank it almost acts like there is no fuel in the tank but there is around 6 gallons in it. Would a bad regulator cause this or a bad tps sensor its set at .95 i checked it today but just a thought I dont have access to alot of tools as in fuel pressure gauge and all that good stuff, I'm trying to wrap my head around how to pull the codes but can't grasp how you do it haaha, as in how to tell which code it is trowing.

Quote from: 88hotbird;409820

update guys the car isnt getting fire, as I said before I changed the distributor out which included the ignition control module, any other ideas changed coils out also. Is there a ignition relay or something?

Quote from: 88hotbird;409828

I checked the coil tom it has power on the hot side of the connector.

OK, what exactly does the engine do when you turn the key?

What is the exact fuel pressure, in pounds?
(Oreilly and such rent fuel pressure testers. This is a key thing, they will run like below 39psi, and they won't run at all below 28-30psi, in my experience.)

If you've got 12 volts at the coil hot side, and the proper fuel pressure, then something else is the issue. There are a few relays that may keep the engine from starting, but first we need those baseline things established.

Your posts seem to contradict one another, low or no fuel pressure won't keep your engine from cranking, although it won't run on it's own.

If you've got 12 volts at the coil, but the engine doesn't crank....see my pattern?

One last thing....you HAVE checked the inertia switch, right? It's in the trunk, on the inside of the tail light panel, should be hidden behind a piece of the gray carpeted trim. It's a little black box about double the thickness of a deck of cards or so, has a white button on top. If that button is sticking way out, push it in and try starting the engine. It's not common, but it does happen. I hit a pothole once in my F series truck once, killed it dead...was the inertia switch.

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Reply #18 – February 23, 2013, 08:31:13 AM

Ok I have not checked the switch, the 04 is my fiancés that I traded my truck for we are having to borrow a car at the moment so both of us can get to work, I am going to oriellys today I will see about the fuel pressure switch but when I unhooked the coil wire I had no fire, unhooked the no 1 wire no fire bu I will see about the fuel pressure gauge today

edit: the inertia switch looks to be right pushed the little white button didnt do anything as in go in further than it already was.

another edit, what I mean by doesn't crank is it won't start it turns over and isnt getting any fire. I just checked the coil I have power on both sides with just the switch on. I changed the distributor out again also just to recheck that, both distributors came from running cars one that was in it was from my foxbody mustang the other is the stock one that came on the thunderbird.

I checked the harness at icm power at the ignition control module and it has 12 volts with key on.

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Reply #19 – February 23, 2013, 01:04:44 PM

When we say the engine cranks over, that means the starter is turning the rotational parts inside, but due to a lack of fuel, ignition, or compression, the engine doesn't run on it's own. Your case: cranks, no start, reason unknown.

Cranks, no start. No spark. Fuel pressure uncertain, but I'd focus on the no spark for now. That's probably the issue. Did it run before, or it just upped and refused to start out of the blue? Quit while driving?

Do you have a spare coil, or can get one? The 12v positive at the hot side will be there regardless of coil good/bad, but if the coil is bad, obviously you won't have spark.

I take it you haven't yet pulled codes, if any?

Edit: I know we all say check codes, but there's not a code for coil failure. I'd try a new coil first, but i'd also check codes as well, it may clue you in as to another unrelated issue.

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Reply #20 – February 23, 2013, 01:14:51 PM

Yes it ran I drove it for about a month, I bought the car about and hour and a half away had a bad transmission, I put my mustang motor and t5 in the car and drove it for about a month the whole time I was driving the car when you would give it gas to get up and go it would stumble at times and other times it ran like it should my reason to think it might have been the fuel pump acted like it wasn't getting enough fuel then last Sunday we were going to town and it done the stumble so I let out came to a stop sign gave it gas to take off and It died hasn't ran since. Yes it turns over but with no spark.

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Reply #21 – February 23, 2013, 01:16:10 PM

I have not tried pulling codes I'm about to here in a second and it has a brand new msd coil I put on it while I was swapping everything over but I put the stock coil back on to try it still nothing.

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Reply #22 – February 23, 2013, 01:25:08 PM

can you hear the fuel pump prime when you first turn the key? if you dont hear the pump prime and you have no spark check the EEC relay located in the main engine harness near the EEC.

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Reply #23 – February 23, 2013, 01:27:20 PM

yes fuel pump primes, when I changed the filter the pump came on and stayed on longer than normal, I guess building pressure back up and filling the lines up so yes it is working, I think its down to just the spark issue.

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Reply #24 – February 23, 2013, 02:22:18 PM

It's a long shot but I had a truck act like this and found that the power wire to the coil was almost broken, just a strand or two holding on. It was good enough to light up the test light but not enough to make it run. You could try a jumper wire directly from the battery to the coil just to see if you have a power feed issue.

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Reply #25 – February 23, 2013, 03:01:53 PM

Chec things in order using the no start thread I linked to. This will tell you what system is out of range or failing quickly and easily.

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Reply #26 – February 23, 2013, 04:16:40 PM

This blows my mind. Everyone is jumping all over the place from fuel to whatever. You clearly posted NO SPARK. So pulling codes is a waste of time till you get SPARK. Did you disconnect the ECM from the 60 PIN connector and see if you have spark. Please do this and post back!!

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Reply #27 – February 23, 2013, 05:07:17 PM

That no start link will walk you through a no spark situation

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Reply #28 – February 23, 2013, 06:13:48 PM

yes I have spark now, changed the distributor cap and have spark lol always the dumbest things, but no fuel pressure I changed the regulator and unhooked the line at the filter and turned key on and it sprayed gas out into a can. Only things im pondering is a hole in the fuel line from pump to pump hanger maybe it will start now but idles very rough and you can push the gas and it does nothing so obviously I didnt let it run very long because it didn't get any better. After letting the pump prime and pushing the schrader valve in not alot of gas would come out, I don't know if the line could be stopped up or that line in the tank have a crack or hole in it.

Sorry for all the confusion I've had over 20 foxbody mustangs and never this type of an issue so it just boggles me. I'm trying to locate a fuel pressure gauge or something so I can check for that.

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Reply #29 – February 23, 2013, 06:51:05 PM

I had a fuel pump go bad in my Tbird...it would build enough pressure to squirt out of the valve, but it sure didn't run until I replaced it.

What exactly was your electrical issue?