Starting Issues Help

Topic: Starting Issues Help (Read 2167 times) previous topic - next topic

Starting Issues Help

January 16, 2012, 02:54:34 PM

OK fellas, I installed a new relay after it just clicked with a good battery. When I went to put the negative battery post on, the engine immediately started cranking (with the ignition off and keys in my pocket). Second relay, engine started and starter continued to run until I disconnected battery. Now I'm thinking shorted column ignition switch. Just replaced this and now it still wants to crank with key off. I bench tested this latest relay and get continuity across both posts without 12v to the relay switch. My theory is that a bad ignition switch is roasting the relays to the closed position but that's just a swag. Since the ignition switch has just been replaced, I wanted to run this by the brain trust before I go buy relay number 4.

Starting Issues Help

Reply #1 – January 16, 2012, 05:48:27 PM

When you put the next one on, bench check it first for continuity. IF it checks out ok, install the heavy cables but NOT the push on start wire. If the start wire has 12 volts with the key off, you have a problem in the wiring that's after the ign switch...assuming you ruled out a sticking/defective switch. Have you added or changed radio, amp , gauges etc?
Keep us posted

Starting Issues Help

Reply #2 – January 16, 2012, 10:09:29 PM

I do not think the starter solinoid should trip, without the trigger wire being depressed. Replace your ignition switch, as it can catch your car on fire, and had a recall.

I have received several bad starter solinoids.

Starting Issues Help

Reply #3 – January 17, 2012, 06:37:20 AM

Yo
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Starting Issues Help

Reply #4 – January 17, 2012, 01:56:47 PM

Had no clue there was a GM style set-up for Fords. I focused on the solenoid because the old screwdriver arc started the car. Just got back from the dealer and was surprised they had a 1 yr warranty on the solenoid. I'll check for voltage on the start switch before I hook up. Just wanted to verify I put the right cables on the right posts. In looking at it my picture, if the solenoid is grounded to the fender and the starter to the engine, whats to prevent the pictured installation from cranking all the time? Its been a few months since I worked on it. Hope I didn't put the heavy cables on wrong. Thanks

Starting Issues Help

Reply #5 – January 17, 2012, 06:41:02 PM

Starting Issues Help

Reply #6 – January 17, 2012, 09:29:34 PM

OK Fellas, Installed the new solenoid and did the start test that was recommended and that was successful. Still haven't tried to start the car since I'm not 100% sure it was the ignition switch, wiring short or both and don't want to be buying solenoid #5. BTW I reinstalled the old ignition switch and that start test failed (no 12v at push on connector). When I reinstalled the new switch I noticed some burnished contacts and a little bit of melting on the harness side. I'm hoping this is from the switch failing but looking for opinions. Oh that ignition key wire popped out. Is that just for the key buzzer or what? Thanks again.

[ATTACH]28743

Starting Issues Help

Reply #7 – January 18, 2012, 01:57:38 AM

Yes, it is just a ground for a chime of some sort, don't remember which now. When I was screwing with my steering colum when I was like 16, I ripped the wire out of the plug on accident. I just put a new connector on it and bolted it somehow. Don't really remember though. I do know it is just a ground for a chime though.

Starting Issues Help

Reply #8 – January 18, 2012, 02:01:34 AM

Oh, I would for sure swap that ignition switch asap. It really can burn your car up, and is one of the first things I have done with all of my cars.

Starting Issues Help

Reply #9 – January 18, 2012, 06:15:39 AM

Starting Issues Help

Reply #10 – January 18, 2012, 06:21:55 AM

Starting Issues Help

Reply #11 – January 18, 2012, 12:13:50 PM

Unless there's a step by step procedure here somewhere, that fix sounds beyond my capability and there's nobody around here that still works on these vehicles, especially since its an engine swap. Charging the battery today and will see if she lights off. Thanks for all your help.

Starting Issues Help

Reply #12 – January 18, 2012, 02:16:10 PM

The ignition switch ccarries the current for the entire car. If it becomes overloaded or dirty, it will fail. Although, only two bolts hold it together, and just about every ford from 1980 or so till about 94 used the same setup. its two bolts and how the facctory designed the car to work. I have put over 100k on a stock switch, that already had 100k on it with no issues.

Basically, if you overload it, past its designed use, then it will fail. If yoou haven't put in a large stereo, or lots of electronics running through the switch, it will be fine. Would it be a better idea to "slave" it, but is not required.

Starting Issues Help

Reply #13 – January 18, 2012, 06:54:13 PM

Starting Issues Help

Reply #14 – January 19, 2012, 01:00:28 AM

Unless someone has a detailed procedure, that's probably beyond my capabilities and nobody around here will work on these cars, especially with the engine swap. I'm hoping the heat generated in the harness was due to the switch failing. Maybe its a little head in the sand but I do like the stock look. Plus I have good insurance. Took it out for a drive today for the first time in months and she ran pretty good. Hope she passes smog. Thanks for the help.