Sputtering while driving *update*

Topic: Sputtering while driving *update* (Read 4047 times) previous topic - next topic

Sputtering while driving update

Reply #15 – June 07, 2010, 06:07:38 PM

Yup, the top of the PCV is capped. That's the stupid one advanced auto gave me...

Sputtering while driving update

Reply #16 – June 08, 2010, 01:00:39 AM

You can pull that black plastic part of the PCV off and jut run the hose to the PCV. That part is just there because some cars use it as most PCV valves are universal.

Can you pull codes? You will end up throwing money at parts that you may not need without pulling codes...

Sputtering while driving update

Reply #17 – June 09, 2010, 12:34:17 AM

When I was 16 I screwed up my plug wires, well actually a friend did. He did one side, I did the other. I drove the car to a shop on 4 cylinders. Show flames out of the cat, had no exhaust after it. When I was in auto my shop teacher wanted to show the class how to do a compression check using my car. Pulled all four on the drivers side. I cranked it and it started right up, he pulled two more and the same thing. Didn't run good though.

Pull codes, and let us know what it says.

Sputtering while driving update

Reply #18 – June 12, 2010, 02:55:11 AM

Your (v8) car ran on [2] cylinders????

Sputtering while driving update

Reply #19 – June 12, 2010, 01:01:28 PM

Well, the car's gotten worse. I decided it isn't safe to drive the way it is. It's starving for fuel whenever you give it gas. I changed the fuel filter, that didn't help too much. The gas that came out of it was terrible. It was brown, like coffee with milk in it. My dad thinks it might be the pump, he thinks that because the car has been sitting for 8 years, all the gunk and rust at the bottom of the tank worked its way into the pump.

I pulled codes...but I'm not sure how to read them....so, via the power of the internet, could you guys give me a hand?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz7r4VCOQfk

Also, I found a loose wire. Any ideas? It gives 7.4 volts, and isn't affected by the throttle. Should it be grounded? It's the black wire near my finger. The wires in the engine compartment have seen better days. Some of the insulation will break away by just touching it.

Sputtering while driving update

Reply #20 – June 12, 2010, 01:50:21 PM

Could be lots of things but you defiantly need to check fuel pressure with the engine under load... If the pressure doesn't maintain 39 psi, the pump is weak or maybe the coupling hose inside the tank has ruptured... Could maybe have a F/P regulator issue but if it makes 30psi or so idling, and starts to climb under load only to fall, you have a supply problem and it's in the tank... Also the screens in the injectors sometime clog up and need to be serviced... Some will recommend just removing them but I feel that's a big no-no, and you'll wind up with clogged injectors...

Sputtering while driving update

Reply #21 – June 13, 2010, 08:20:08 PM

So uhh....was anyone able to figure out the codes from the video I posted?

Sputtering while driving update

Reply #22 – June 13, 2010, 10:37:25 PM

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com

this site has all the information you need to figure it out.

The codes and the corresponding information are near the bottom of the page.

Sputtering while driving update

Reply #23 – June 14, 2010, 12:16:25 AM

Quote from: dragon574444;325141

Well, the car's gotten worse. I decided it isn't safe to drive the way it is. It's starving for fuel whenever you give it gas. I changed the fuel filter, that didn't help too much. The gas that came out of it was terrible. It was brown, like coffee with milk in it. My dad thinks it might be the pump, he thinks that because the car has been sitting for 8 years, all the gunk and rust at the bottom of the tank worked its way into the pump.

I pulled codes...but I'm not sure how to read them....so, via the power of the internet, could you guys give me a hand?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz7r4VCOQfk

Also, I found a loose wire. Any ideas? It gives 7.4 volts, and isn't affected by the throttle. Should it be grounded? It's the black wire near my finger. The wires in the engine compartment have seen better days. Some of the insulation will break away by just touching it.

You ran KOEO (Key On Engine Off) test.
There are two categories of codes with this test.
The first are the result of tests that are currently running.
You got 11 11, codes are read out twice.
11 is no faults
Following a single separator pulse the Memory codes are read out.
These codes are stored while the engine is running. Unless you have had the battery disconnected recently they could have been there for awhile.
You got memory codes:
14 PIP (profile ignition pickup) problem.
18 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor
22 MAP sensor frequency out of specs.
63 TPS sensor voltage low.

You should also run KOER (Key On Engine Running) tests.

If the mystery wire only has the 7.5 volts when the engine is running, it is the stator voltage from the alternator. I have early wiring diagrams that show this going to the VIP test connector. They apparently changed their mind and just left the wire in there.
DO NOT GROUND IT!!

Sputtering while driving update

Reply #24 – June 14, 2010, 02:08:58 AM

Also, When you do run codes, make sure the engine is up to operating temperature. On fordfuelinjection.com, it also has ways and voltages to test your sensors at. Get with that link and let us know.

Sputtering while driving update

Reply #25 – June 14, 2010, 03:05:34 PM

Thanks for the help. The KOEO was at operating temp. I'll do a running test...Wednesday? I've been real busy lately. Graduating tomorrow! Awards night tonight...won't be driving to either...

The battery has been disconnected often, probably two or three start ups before I pulled the codes. I replaced the TPS, so 63 should be irrelevant. I don't think my car has MAP sensors? 14 and 18?

Sputtering while driving update

Reply #26 – June 14, 2010, 09:27:31 PM

this is a map sensor

It probably looks a little different on yours, as you have a TC, but I believe it should be mounted near the same place on the firewall

Sputtering while driving update

Reply #27 – June 15, 2010, 04:43:55 AM

Fow what it is worth, the MAP sensor on my '85 Thunderbird is located behind the washer fluid reservoir. On the '87 Cougar it is located as shown in the pic above.

Sputtering while driving update

Reply #28 – August 27, 2010, 06:32:35 PM

For anyone who was following this thread, I think I found my problem.

I was changing the fuel pump today, and I left a fair amout of gas left in the tank. I didn't have anything to siphon the gas out, so there was about 1/4 of a tank. I was trying to get the straps off, and one of the supports that the bolt goes into was completely shot.(HAYLP!)

Yeah, that's the gas that came out of it. There's a nice layer of good gas, but the picture says it all. My car runs nice in park, so while in park, the fuel pump is able to suck up all the good gas at the top. My driveway is really bumpy, so as I go down the road, it mixes all of the gas up and the engine decides it doesn't like brown gas. This also explains why it fights to get up hills, it's fighting both elevation and bad gas. I'm gonna try to get as much good gas and use that for the lawn mower...

Fuel pump will be here tomorrow along with new straps. What can I do about the broken strap support though?

Sputtering while driving update

Reply #29 – August 27, 2010, 08:40:54 PM

Umm, yeah, I would say Gasoline/Water slurry is usually not exactly the best to run in one. But, to chime in on the plug wire routing issue ....

There are two firing orders on the 5.0L. HO, and non HO. The Non-HO firing order is 15426378. Can't remember the HO order, but notice that 7 and 8 fire back to back on the non-HO cam. When you install the wires on the LH side (driver's) of the engine, as they leave the dizzy, make sure to keep #5 and #6 wires between #7 and #8 as long as you can, and then separate 7 and 8 as much as possible after 6 drops out of the bundle. When you take 7 down to the cylinder, make sure it crosses #8 at a right angle (90 degrees) so that the wires are NEVER close together and parallel to each other.

This sounds like a bunch of hooey, but there is actually a Ford TSB about this, and I actually experienced the problem with my '92 F-150. If 7 and 8 wires are not separated, when 7 fires, it can actually induce enough current in #8 wire to fire the plug. When 7 is on the power stroke, 8 is on the compression stroke. This will cause SERIOUS detonation, and even destroy #8 cylinder.

As for the plugs. DO NOT use Bosch platinums in a Ford engine with a Ford TFI ignition. The TFI will EAT those plugs. The ceramic around the electrodes will shatter. Guess where that ceramic goes. Stay with the Motorcraft coppers, you won't regret it. They last longer, and perform better. Again, I speak from experience at the School of Hard Knocks (excuse the pun). For all your ignition parts, STAY with MOTORCRAFT parts. I've tried MSD, Bosch, and a few other things, and ALWAYS wind up coming back to Motorcraft. I'm not saying Bosch is a bad plug. It works WONDERFULLY in a VW Beetle air-cooled engine with an old school breaker points ignition. Just not in a Ford with TFI.

Just my .02 worth.