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Topic: Possible Coolant System Problem? (Read 1634 times) previous topic - next topic

Possible Coolant System Problem?

So in the midst of fixing my vacuum leak preventing my heater from switching out of defrost, I came across something unusual. I ran the car for a little while before I did anything and I drained out the radiator, because I knew I had to take of the heater core hoses. I checked the radiator before I drained it and it was full, right to the brim. I drained it out, and there is only enough to fill a 2 litter soda bottle. I figured at first, no big deal theres probably coolant in the lines and so forth, but when I disconnected the heater core lines none came out.

I know the radiator isn't clogged, I can see circulation with the cap off. So is there a major air pocket in the system? Why would only a little antifreeze come out? I know that it doesn't leak, and its not in the oil or anything like that.

Looking for ideas really, the coolant gauge always stays around 3/4 and sometimes goes up to just before red. I don't put much faith in the gauge, but there could be something wrong here...

Possible Coolant System Problem?

Reply #1
Quote from: jpc647;303530
So in the midst of fixing my vacuum leak preventing my heater from switching out of defrost, I came across something unusual. I ran the car for a little while before I did anything and I drained out the radiator, because I knew I had to take of the heater core hoses. I checked the radiator before I drained it and it was full, right to the brim. I drained it out, and there is only enough to fill a 2 litter soda bottle. I figured at first, no big deal theres probably coolant in the lines and so forth, but when I disconnected the heater core lines none came out.

I know the radiator isn't clogged, I can see circulation with the cap off. So is there a major air pocket in the system? Why would only a little antifreeze come out? I know that it doesn't leak, and its not in the oil or anything like that.

Looking for ideas really, the coolant gauge always stays around 3/4 and sometimes goes up to just before red. I don't put much faith in the gauge, but there could be something wrong here...

Out of curiosity, this is the 5.0, right? How's the head gaskets...cracked block or head(s)? Leaks? Have a t-stat in it?

SOmething opened up and caused that coolant to go either in the engine like it should, or else like it shouldn't, and it got burned...

The ONLY times I ever saw circulation in the radiator when it was full was when the headgasket was bad, or there was a cracked head...
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

Possible Coolant System Problem?

Reply #2
Yes its a 5.0 out of an 87 tbird. I think the head gaskets are fine, I mean it never blows smoke or anything, its only got 70 something thousand miles. Car does not seem to leak antifreeze. It has an unusual leak from the  valve cover bolt(one of them) and I can't seem to figure it out. Other than that nothing to speak of.

With the radiator full, why would there normally be no circulation? I mean with the cap off I can look at the veins in the rad, and if i rev it a little i can see it come out through those vein things.

Possible Coolant System Problem?

Reply #3
Sorry Freeek, but on a healthy engine, with the cap off  and the T-stat OPEN, you should be able to see the coolant moving. (Obviously you shouldn't try this after just filling it, as you will get excess coolant bubbling out.)
1983 Tbird with '03 Split Port V6 motor swap done! Headers, dual exhaust, 500CFM Edelbrock, 3G upgrade, Electric fan. 3.73 Gears and an FRPP Limited Slip. Five lug complete! 5-Speed conversion complete! Standalone Fuel Injection in progress...

Possible Coolant System Problem?

Reply #4
Quote from: jrad235;303602
Sorry Freeek, but on a healthy engine, with the cap off  and the T-stat OPEN, you should be able to see the coolant moving. (Obviously you shouldn't try this after just filling it, as you will get excess coolant bubbling out.)


Thats kinda what I thought too.  hmmm

Possible Coolant System Problem?

Reply #5
The engine is full of water in the passages as well as the heater core.There's a lot of your water.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Possible Coolant System Problem?

Reply #6
Yes, the heater core hoses will generally drain back into the block once the water level goes down, and unless you pull the lower rad hose, that water doesn't always drain through the rad.
1983 Tbird with '03 Split Port V6 motor swap done! Headers, dual exhaust, 500CFM Edelbrock, 3G upgrade, Electric fan. 3.73 Gears and an FRPP Limited Slip. Five lug complete! 5-Speed conversion complete! Standalone Fuel Injection in progress...

Possible Coolant System Problem?

Reply #7
your radiator only has two tanks,, left and right.

draining the rad one produce the amount you think all of the time.  the lower hose will drain some as well as the rad itself but if a full gal came out, id be surprised.  a lot more resides in the block than you think.

Possible Coolant System Problem?

Reply #8
In  the other thread you put that it takes forever for your car to warm up, but here your guage reads high? Is the heater warm, or does it stay cold?

I had similar problems, and my t-stat was broken. The flat part that goes to the gasket was still there, but the parts that flex and open were not. I dug  out of the lower radiator hose. Now I had the engine warm with a 192 degree t-stat after about 2 minutes of driving.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Possible Coolant System Problem?

Reply #9
Hmmm, I dunno...maybe on mine, I didn't wait for the t-stat to open...dunno.

My Escort GT DID swirl coolant..and a lot, I may add, even to the point of it running out the cap if it was off...this was when the hg went on it. Didn't do it after I tore into it and fixed a buncha stuff.

For starters I'd look into the T-stat...and bleed the system but good, and see what the result is.
'98 Explorer 5.0
'20 Malibu (I know, Chevy, but, 35MPG. Let's go brandon, eh)

Possible Coolant System Problem?

Reply #10
Quote from: Haystack;303655
In  the other thread you put that it takes forever for your car to warm up, but here your guage reads high? Is the heater warm, or does it stay cold?

.


Which thread? The heater only blows luke warm. It seems to not change much if I slide the temperature control lever around. I checked the device inside the dash and it seems to have a ful range of movement. I have had a few probems with the gauge saying the car is overheating and what not, but its not. I know its because of something after the 3.8 to 5.0 engine swap. I am not sure what. I've pretty much tried everything I can think of, and then resigned myself to the fact the gauge is inaccuarate.  When I drained the anti freeze and only a little came out, I kinda thought maybe this could be a culprit to the problem. If not, not a big deal i gues.

Possible Coolant System Problem?

Reply #11
Quote from: jpc647;303530
So in the midst of fixing my vacuum leak preventing my heater from switching out of defrost, I came across something unusual. I ran the car for a little while before I did anything and I drained out the radiator, because I knew I had to take of the heater core hoses. I checked the radiator before I drained it and it was full, right to the brim. I drained it out, and there is only enough to fill a 2 litter soda bottle.

Do you remember how much coolant you put in when you filled it?
Should hold about 3½ gallons if it was completely dry.
Is it possible no coolant ever got into the engine block?
The t-stat should not be an airtight seal when it is closed. The air has to escape as the block fills up from the bottom.
The bleed hole is small and can be clogged with crud.

You could take the t-stat out and fill it up. Then warm the engine by putting a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to see if that makes a difference.

Possible Coolant System Problem?

Reply #12
I'm not sure which other thread, it was in the last couple of days or so.

On my car, my heater sucks right before my car starts to overheat. When I first got it, I had many leaks, but lived less then 2 miles from my work. I probably drove it for more then 1 year without any coolant in it before I figured out that something was wrong.

I had many leaks, a bad waterpump, a bad radiator, a bad thermostat, and a bad heater core. Since you have done the heater core, check everything else while you have it able to drive. The t-stat will probably take almost as long as the heater if you leave everything hooked up. Check all of your hoses and make sure you have no leaks. i thought I had all of mine fixed a couple of times, and I only now think I really have it licked.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Possible Coolant System Problem?

Reply #13
oh, you should probably get the proper setup for your coolant temperature. Would the old 3.8 sensor work?
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Possible Coolant System Problem?

Reply #14
The 3.8 sensor made it redline on the temp gauge in about a minute. I bought a replacement gauge specified for an 87 5.0 without electronic cluster and it did the same. It would peg, and never come back down.I did check for leaks when I did the motor swap, I don't see any. I can look again though. All the hoses were good too.

Just to test if the car was really on the verge of overheating, I've driven it with cardboard in front of the radiator to make it a little hotter, but nothing. It never overheats. I've driven it 2 hours on the highway and nothing. I dunno, its seems like it has to some sort of an error of somekind. Maybe the t-start is only partially opening? I dunno, I'll screw with that on a day thats not sooo cold. One of those bolts on that housing is just such a PITA on the 5.0...