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Topic: Wheel removal issue...UPDATE AGAIN....... (Read 4758 times) previous topic - next topic

Wheel removal issue...UPDATE AGAIN.......

I had the car up on jack stands today to swap the springs,a-frames,and strut mounts,and then,for the first time in my life,I couldn't remove the driver side front wheel.Yes,all 4 of the lug nuts were removed.I pulled on it,kicked it....over and over,and over.I hit the tire from behind with a BFH (didn't hit the wheel),sprayed penetrating oil,no dice.I called the two tire places in town,and they both said use the hammer from behind on the tire.No deal as I already stated.So,no work done today.I spent an hour and a half on it.Anyway,I called the tire business that installed mine and I told them I needed my wheels balanced (I have the lifetime deal),so,I'll let them remove the tire for me tomorrow morning,THEN,I can rebuild the suspension.Again,I've never seen that happen before.Glad I'm off til Friday,then off again the weekend.

Just thought I'd share my completely unproductive day with everyone.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Wheel removal issue...UPDATE AGAIN.......

Reply #1 –
ive had that happened a few times, when i worked at Wally Mart doing oil changes and tires.

 i swear, one time i had to get a running start, and sidekick a wheel off of a F-250.
1979 Ford Fairmont
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5.0L/4R70W/8.8"/5-lug/3" Exhuast

Wheel removal issue...UPDATE AGAIN.......

Reply #2 –
I've had to beat wheels off a car with an 8 pound sledgehammer. It's a fairly common problem in salty areas (salt + cast iron hub + aluminum wheel = big time corrosion. It happens with steel wheels too, but aluminum and iron react with each other).

I've often broken the corrosion ring by reinstalling the lug nuts loosely, then driving the car around the parking lot, hitting the brakes hard a few times.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Wheel removal issue...UPDATE AGAIN.......

Reply #3 –
I did loosen the lugs and took the car down the street and made a couple of wicked aggressive turns,no deal.I didn't try the "hitting the brake" idea.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..
 

Wheel removal issue...UPDATE AGAIN.......

Reply #4 –
On a side not,I was looking at the front end components,and the actual swapping of the parts looks pretty straight forward.I don't have any rust anywhere.I figured I'd leave the spindles and struts connected together since I'm replacing the mount up top and the a-frames.Nothing going on with the brakes anyway,plus,that's something else I won't have to deal with.I have new tie rods and steering rack,and sway bar end links,so,that should all come apart pretty easy.The ball joint,I'll beat the  out of that,it and the whole a-frame on each side is coming off anyway.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Wheel removal issue...UPDATE AGAIN.......

Reply #5 –
Sounds like you had a fun day kicking tires and all.

but.
I'm so jealous of you guys that are able to get out there and work on your rides... its still 30 degrees here!!!

Wheel removal issue...UPDATE AGAIN.......

Reply #6 –
Quote from: Thunder Chicken;261970
I've had to beat wheels off a car with an 8 pound sledgehammer. It's a fairly common problem in salty areas (salt + cast iron hub + aluminum wheel = big time corrosion. It happens with steel wheels too, but aluminum and iron react with each other).

I've often broken the corrosion ring by reinstalling the lug nuts loosely, then driving the car around the parking lot, hitting the brakes hard a few times.


Here's the trick I use (they salt here too ;) ):

Get a big rubber mallet and just pound the hell out of the back of the tire. Always works for me :D
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

Wheel removal issue...UPDATE AGAIN.......

Reply #7 –
Well,no salt on these roads.....as far as the rubber mallet,I'm now to the point I'm just going to let the tire shop handle it when they balance my wheels.I had a loose weight on that wheel anyway,so it all works out.I'm not angry or cranky today even though I should be.I still have 3 more days off,so,no sweat.Tomorrow,I'll intend to make some progress and see what happens.I may even take a few pointless pictures of the whole ordeal.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Wheel removal issue...UPDATE AGAIN.......

Reply #8 –
They say its supposed to be around 70 degrees tomorrow so I am going to do what I can to get outside.

Vin, don't you love it when your car has other ideas of what it wants to do?

Wheel removal issue...UPDATE AGAIN.......

Reply #9 –
It's supposed to be nearly 80 here.As far as the Sport having different ideas.No way.She was on my side.I could see tears dripping off the bumper when the wheel wouldn't come off.The disappointment in those headlights was almost more than I could handle.Daddy will make it better.LOL.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Wheel removal issue...UPDATE AGAIN.......

Reply #10 –
I had it happen to me last week on my DD.  I got the wheel off after a bit.  I applied a lil anti sieze so hopefully it won't happen again.

Wheel removal issue...UPDATE AGAIN.......

Reply #11 –
You guys and your 70-80 degree weather suck. You know that, don't you?

Vin: It doesn't even take salt to cause corrosion between two different metals that contact each other, all it takes is a bit of moisture. I believe it's called a "galvanic reaction" or something to that effect. Anyone who has ever broken a water pump or intake manifold bolt has experienced it. To prevent it in future try slobbing some antiseize compound onto the hub before reinstalling the wheel.

Also, don't you have aftermarket wheels on your car? The hub hole might not be machined properly, it might be a thousandth of an inch too small. You should be able to slip the wheel onto the hub so that it sits flat on the , it should not have to be bolted down in order to seat. If yours require force this is likely your problem. The only cure to it is to very carefully grind the hub hole very slightly larger. It's something that will need to be done, because you might not always have the luxury of going to a tire shop - a flat on the side of the road could royally screw you.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Wheel removal issue...UPDATE AGAIN.......

Reply #12 –
When I get the Sport home,I'll do a little grinding.....after the suspension stuff is done.Oh wait,I may have to wait.I just sent my digital dremmel in for warranty replacement. !!!Oh well,maybe I have a die grinder in my new air tool box of goodies.I haven't really looked yet.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Wheel removal issue...UPDATE AGAIN.......

Reply #13 –
Loosen the lugs and go do some lawn jobs and a few donuts in a Wally-world parking lot. The wheel will just fall off :hick:
11.96 @ 118 MPH old 306 KB; 428W coming soon.