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Questions questions

I figure I could splice this up and post in about 4 different places, but that seems a little silly.

Yes, I know Mopars pretty well, but this is a different animal. So here we go....

I tried ordering a new headlight switch from AutoZone (and the dealership) only to find I can't get one. So I've bought a used one off ebay (lord help me) and I hope it's in better condition than the one in the car. But in case it isn't and doesn't resolve the flashing headlight/foglights is there any place to get a new headlight switch?

Also, I'm making a guess that the high readings in the gauges when the lights are on has to do with the IVR. Are they readily available?

Next, it seems I have a bit of end play in the driver's side axle....enough to move the axle in and out by grabbing the lugs with my fingers and giving a lil push and pull. Is there an axle end play adjustment?

On the drive to Texas, I detected a bit of a thump in the passenger's side front strut when the PRC switch is in the "Auto" position. And at 140K miles, I'm guessing they all need to be replaced. Is it still possible to get replacement struts and shocks for the PRC equipped cars?

I forgot. Headlights. The cheapest I've seen are from Thunderbird Ranch at about $60 each.

I appreciate any help/info anyone would care to disseminate.

:D
5 Mopars, an S-197, and the Turbo Twinkie[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Questions questions

Reply #1 –
24 hours and no responses?:confused:


maybe I shoulda said "purdy pleeeezzzeeee.....with sugar on top?":disappoin
5 Mopars, an S-197, and the Turbo Twinkie[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Questions questions

Reply #2 –
Headlight switches are fairly easy to find here through a fellow member in good shape.Lights can be had brand new for 4130.00 on Ebay (not too bad for new).The rest will have to come from other members.Stay tuned,someone will eventually chime in.It takes time.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Questions questions

Reply #3 –
Quote from: Turbo 88;243582

 But in case it isn't and doesn't resolve the flashing headlight/foglights is there any place to get a new headlight switch?

[COLOR="Red"]Do you have auto lamp?  sensor in the dash as well as one on the mirror?[/COLOR]

Also, I'm making a guess that the high readings in the gauges when the lights are on has to do with the IVR. Are they readily available?
[COLOR="red"]Usually the IVR just s out.  I made one  out but it did so under unusual conditions.  What do you mean by HIGH?
On a dash with digi speedo and buttstuffog temp / fuel along with idiot light batt and oil, the right half goes dead when the IVR s.
Again, what do you mean by high and where are you reading the DC power?[/COLOR]

Next, it seems I have a bit of end play in the driver's side axle....enough to move the axle in and out by grabbing the lugs with my fingers and giving a lil push and pull. Is there an axle end play adjustment?
[COLOR="red"]There is an awsome sticky drivetrane tech on rear end info as well as disassembled piece parts.  As for the in/out play, how much? feeler guage worthy or 1/8'' +?[/COLOR]

On the drive to Texas, I detected a bit of a thump in the passenger's side front strut when the PRC switch is in the "Auto" position. And at 140K miles, I'm guessing they all need to be replaced. Is it still possible to get replacement struts and shocks for the PRC equipped cars?
[COLOR="red"]Dont know[/COLOR]


I forgot. Headlights. The cheapest I've seen are from Thunderbird Ranch at about $60 each.
[COLOR="Red"]Headlights or Lenses?[/COLOR]

I appreciate any help/info anyone would care to disseminate.

:D


:D

Questions questions

Reply #4 –
I've seen the struts for sale on the NATO board.They're never cheap.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Questions questions

Reply #5 –
Nope. It doesn't have the auto headlights. Just planeO janeO

The temp gauge is sometimes reading towards the high end when the lights are off. BUT, the motor doesn't seem to be hot at all. Fan hardly ever comes on, although it does mostly in slow traffic. It pegs when the lights are on, and the oil pressure gauge reads (probably) 1/4 to 1/5th high.

This is also the standard buttstuffog cluster. No fancy schmancy digital anything.

Axle end play. Not feeler gauge movement, but probably not 1/8" either. Enough to make it thump if you push/pull hard enough.

Headlights. Yes, the lenses. They are opaque, which is why I was running the fogs on my trip. I really couldn't see. So lenses, and I might replace the bulbs with new fancy ones IF the headlight switch doesn't cure the head/fog flashing problem.


NATO board? Whats that?
5 Mopars, an S-197, and the Turbo Twinkie[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Questions questions

Reply #6 –
Quote from: Turbo 88;243771
Nope. It doesn't have the auto headlights. Just planeO janeO
[COLOR="Red"]ok[/COLOR]
The temp gauge is sometimes reading towards the high end when the lights are off. BUT, the motor doesn't seem to be hot at all.
[COLOR="red"]Does this happen instantly even with a bone cold motor? or does it gradually climb as the coolant heats up?  Also how is the operation of your charge indicator[/COLOR]

Fan hardly ever comes on, although it does mostly in slow traffic. It pegs when the lights are on, and the oil pressure gauge reads (probably) 1/4 to 1/5th high.
[COLOR="red"]Start a thread on this in electrical tech  "temp guage pegs with headlamps on" > if it happens even with a cold motor.  If it happens only when the motor warms up, i would be suspicious.[/COLOR]

This is also the standard buttstuffog cluster. No fancy schmancy digital anything.
[COLOR="red"]ok[/COLOR]

Axle end play. Not feeler gauge movement, but probably not 1/8" either. Enough to make it thump if you push/pull hard enough. 
[COLOR="red"]Not an issue imho,you need play.  Does the rear end go clunk clunk when you hit the gas and let off?[/COLOR]

Headlights. Yes, the lenses. They are opaque, which is why I was running the fogs on my trip. I really couldn't see. So lenses, and I might replace the bulbs with new fancy ones IF the headlight switch doesn't cure the head/fog flashing problem.
[COLOR="red"]go to my diy link,, in there is are links to either replacement lenses or how to clean up on your own. [/COLOR]

NATO board? Whats that?

[COLOR="red"]Another message board [/COLOR]
 

Questions questions

Reply #7 –
I'll have to do a test to see if the temp gauge will peg when 1) motor is dead cold and 2) headlights are turned on. I had the lights on while in the snow (had already been driving for an hour or more) and after dark. But by dark I had been driving for 8 hours or more.

I didn't notice the rear end noise from being on and off the gas. I first heard it as I was "hipping" the quarter while gassing up.

I'll start a thread about the gauges in the electrical section after I do a cold motor, lights on test.

Btw, the P.O. had seen the high reading on the temp gauge, and tested the coolant in the radiator with a candy thermometer (what he said) Claimed the temp wasn't to 190. I can tell you that when running and indicating towards the high end, I could handle the top hose, the radiator (while hot to the touch) wasn't blistering hot as you would expect with an overheat. Also, I turned on the A/C to run the dedicated fan. The air coming off of it again didn't feel like an overheating motor.

Lastly, I've got to figure if this thing was really running that hot, I couldn't have made a 3 day 2000 mile trip in it. Surely it would have dropped dead, galled pistons, or just seized up.

I'll take a look at your DIY also, but these housings are pretty trashy.

'Preciate the help
5 Mopars, an S-197, and the Turbo Twinkie[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Questions questions

Reply #8 –
I believe I still have a old h/l switch laying around if you cant find one. I went thru the foggy h/l lense thing also. Tried the cleaning and it did help but it doesnt cure the housings having lost there reflection. Vinnie is right ebay for $130. From time to time you see NOS. I ended up finding a set of NOS ones for $90.

Questions questions

Reply #9 –
Thanks all.

I'd seen those on ebay. I thought "gee...that's a lot for headlight housings" and figured it wasn't just me since I didn't see them selling. But I haven't found any other outlet for them besides Thunderbird Ranch. (where they are $60ea + shipping)

I've got a used switch on the way, but have no idea if it's any better than the original until it gets here and I stick it in the dash.

(short bitch session ON)
I picked this 88 up as a replacement for the black 88 my GF had. We were talking last night and I told her this one didn't have the auto headlights. She said "the black one did. It had "everything". To which I replied "It didn't have everything, cause it didn't have dead cow in it". She said "but it had everything else, including the fancier radio".......to which I replied "yeah, but you had THREE of those radios DIE in that car, and I was LISTENING to this one on the trip home.....AND it has dead cow inside"

Truly, she appreciates what I've done and is chomping at the bit to get this one. But I can't help but still there's a bit of "gift horse" going on here. (short bitch session OFF)
5 Mopars, an S-197, and the Turbo Twinkie[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Questions questions

Reply #10 –
$130 does seem high,but,remember this.There are no resto parts being made for us.The 1/4 windows are insane on prices,and parts are getting harder and harder to find.It's really not too bad of a price considering what you have now,and the time and effort we all devote to polishing old ones.It's a really nice touch to the front of our cars as well.Those yellow lights really do  up the fronts of these cars.My NOS lights are going on the day after paint.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Questions questions

Reply #11 –
O.K.,after finding out what the IVR is,I have one you can have if you need it.Just shoot me your address and I'll get it out to you.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Questions questions

Reply #12 –
Thanks!!!!

I didn't define the "IVR" cause from what I've seen in other threads, you guys (generic) seem to have all that covered. I don't know what you're talking about most of the time because of the acronyms used.

I'll shoot you my addy in a pm. Thanks again
5 Mopars, an S-197, and the Turbo Twinkie[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Questions questions

Reply #13 –
No problem.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Questions questions

Reply #14 –
autozone had headlight switches online last i checked

parts america had the IVR last  I looked

PRC struts shocks are no longer available except used  There are replacements available from monroe etc., but you loose the prc feature

For headlights try a place like fordparts.com and use p/n E7SZ-13007-A  & E7SZ-13007-B.  This will give you the same thing as ebay, which is the lens  and you may or may not need new adjuster screws depending on if they disintegrate when you R&R. Price should be about 45$.