power window fix??

Topic: power window fix?? (Read 11209 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: power window fix??

Reply #15 – March 18, 2005, 03:16:48 PM

well, here is a little hint. this is what i did with any of the tbird windows i needed to fix.
remove the clips from the glass and clean them as good as possible, sand and roughen the clip as best as you can, inside and out. do the same with the glass. needs to be very clean. scuff the glass if you can. if you work quickly than you should be able to do both clips.
the most important thing i think is too use "micro ballons". its an additive to epoxy in the hobby world. i myself have always used non scented BABY POWDER. when you mix the epoxy instead of mixing 50/50 go 60% epoxy to 40 % hardner and add to whatever volume of mix you have about 40% powder. the epoxy takes longer to cure but when it does the baby powder gives it some elasticity basically keeping the epoxy from getting so rock hard.
i brush a good ammount of epoxy on both sides of the glass and inside the clip, jamb it up and wrap a peice of fiberglass (i use kevlar) weave over the clip and onto the glass to help hold the epoxy in. i do both sides and send the window up guiding the clips, glass all together carefully untill its closed as tight as the motor will let it go. then i rework the epoxy and kevlar or glass fiber smoothe and neat.

i let it sit for at least 24 hours before touching it at all

Re: power window fix??

Reply #16 – March 18, 2005, 07:59:44 PM

Well its sure funny to see that everyone else shares the same headaches I've had with my car. I'd agree that the key is to get the glass good and CLEAN. From there I've experimented with 100% silicon and it worked good. Lasted for about 1 yr. This last time I used an epoxy. I think it just comes down to the fact that Ford didn't design the thing very good!

Re: power window fix??

Reply #17 – March 18, 2005, 09:15:54 PM

Well i agree the design sucks but ford is not the only manufacture to use this design.
Working at chrysler i've replaced quite a few windows due to clip breakage and the customer isn't to happy when they have to buy a 300.00 window.
I'd still like to know if drilling holes through the clip and window is possible with the correct bits.
It would be an permanent and awesome fix to put a bolt through there.

Re: power window fix??

Reply #18 – March 20, 2005, 09:08:31 PM

yeah i've seriously thought about drilling some holes and doing it that way. I was always afraid of cracking the glass.

Re: power window fix??

Reply #19 – March 22, 2005, 08:45:39 PM

sticky..nice

but why is this thread in the engine tech section? :rolleyes:

Power window fix

Reply #20 – October 18, 2005, 03:11:50 PM

I dunno why, but out of all the 'Birds and Cougars I've owned, the one with the lowest mileage and in the best shape has had the most problems. It seems like everything that these cars are known for happens to my car. Ignition switch failure (fixed), cracked dash (not fixed), park light lenses popping off (fixed), radiator rotting out (fixed), condenser leaking (fixed), pressure line and suction line leaking (fixed), noisey A/C compressor (not fixed), ripped driver's seat (fixed), faded interior (partially fixed), broken seat belt thingies (fixed), squeaky ball joints (fixed), steering wheel slip rings (fixed with aftermarket wheel), tires wearing on the outside edge (tires replaced with just 10,000 miles on them), windshield delaminating (not fixed yet) - you name it, it seems to break on this car, including this window thing (the window popped off the clips in Montreal). On second thought, don't you dare name it - I don't want to tempt fate.

Now then, with that bit of a rant off my chest, about this window thing:

I know that tempered glass can be drilled, but not with a conventional drill bit. I believe you would have to use a diamond grit abrasive and literally wear your way very slowly through the glass using cutting oils and the like. This is something I would not even attempt, though, because one wrong move could turn your window to powder before your eyes - there is no such thing as cracking tempered glass, it just shatters. And vibration can cause it to shatter, so you'd better have one seriously smooth drill.

What I did was removed the window from the car and brought inside where it's warm. I sed the old glue (looked like clear silicone, so I don't know if it was factory) using an exacto knife blade. I then used brake cleaner to clean it because brake cleaner leaves no residue. Once the brake cleaner dried I applied some GOOP (after reading about its successful use here) and let it dry for several hours. Hopefully this will hold for awhile.

Likely the only reason it hasn't happened with the passenger window because that was replaced last year when somebody broke into the car...

Power window fix

Reply #21 – October 18, 2005, 06:56:35 PM

http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=3165&highlight=window+glass

Power window fix

Reply #22 – October 25, 2005, 01:33:09 PM

my wifes kia sportage had holes in the base as well with a rubber insert to allow a bolt to pass thru the window to the track/craddle assy. I would like to do what you suggest also but maybe someday.

Power window fix

Reply #23 – November 29, 2005, 09:44:46 AM

I know this is an old post but I have to share my repair. No one has mentioned it yet, but I used J.B Weld. I even have one clip broken and the jb weld is holding it. My window broke on me at cat jam. I fixed it the day I got home. Been holding ever since.

Power window fix

Reply #24 – November 30, 2005, 12:04:51 AM

Absolutely, that's what I use...good ol' JB Weld. However in my situation, it's not permanent, good for at least a few months. The felt has long ago worn off the rubber strips and when it's hot out the rubber will stick to the glass and get sucked down...lol. I also think that I need new gears/motor...there's like 3/4" slack in the system. If I roll the window up as far as the motor will take it, when I go to roll it down, you hear the motor and a split second later it yanks the hell out of the glass. Multiple problems=fun times.

JB Weld

Reply #25 – November 30, 2005, 02:28:39 AM

I used JB Weld to repair the bracket the mounts the hood release pull cable to the kick panel. It had cracked during the heater core was changed. A few layers of JB weld mixed with an ice cream stick does the trick. Just wait a few days per layer. It's more sturdy than the original.

Power window fix

Reply #26 – December 04, 2005, 05:18:07 PM

Did my drivers door this summer, All I did was clean up all the old glue from the clip and the glass, used some sandpaper on the glass just where the clip was to sit and drilled a hole through each clip to provide a better hold. Then went to a local autoglass shop and had them glue it up with epoxy. Took it home sprayed the out of the track with silicone spray and reinstalled the glass....so far it holds (forgot to mention I also removed the lousy tint from the glass which may have been part of the reason the window hung up in the first place)

Good luck
John

Power window fix

Reply #27 – December 22, 2005, 04:55:18 AM

Hey i tried the windsheild stuff years ago and it didnt hold!! The best results ive had were with jb weld but the key to getting it stuck is to rough the glass with sand paper and also drill a hole through the clip on both sides of the clip!! just like and 1/8" or so enough to let all the air get out when slidin the clip on!!!

Power window fix

Reply #28 – January 10, 2006, 10:03:46 PM

You need to get some windshield Urethane adhesive. You can find it in most parts stores like NAPA, etc. It's made by several companies like 3M. Take some emery cloth and roughen up both the inside of the clips and the glass where the clips go. Next drill 2 small holes ( I used a 3/16 drill bit to) into each clip. These holes will allow the urethane to escape, preventing air pockets, as well as acting like an anchor pin. The holes are the trick to getting a good bond between the clip and glass. After drilling the holes and scuffing the clips and glass, clean both the glass contact areas and plastic clips well with alcohol. Once it's clean and dry you can apply the urethane. Seat the window in the clips and put the window all the way up. You must leave it up for at least 48 hours to allow the urethane to fully cure. I left my daughters for 96 hours to be real sure it was cured fully.
Don't waste your time or money on rear view mirror glue, silicone, or other regular glues and adhesives. Yes they will hold it, but only for a limited period of time before they separate again. Do it right and do it only once. The glass is very heavy and there is a lot of pressure applied to it going up and down.
I used anoth 3M Wind-Weld Super Fast Urethane Part #0 51135-08609 available at NAPA. I did this repair after reading how to do it on the NATO site.

Power window fix

Reply #29 – September 17, 2006, 06:43:07 PM

Guys, I know this is old, but...
I've tried every thing mentioned above.
I tried, JB WELD, Silicone, Plasti-weld, and even Windshield adhesive from an actual glass company. It was in a pen 15ing tube and it needed to be heated before it's used. Well I used that stuff about 3 weeks a go. I even drilled holes in the clips. And guess what? Yup, BOTH windows are off the track again.

Has anyone attempted drilling the hole like mentioned above? I've thought of that also.

What about fiberglass mat?