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3G upgrade question

Hey guys & gals, My alternator quit charging over the weekend so i figured it would be a good time to upgrade to the 130 amp 3G.My question is,what is the best route to run the 4 gauge wire and where to place the fuse holder.  thanks in advance,  Joe

3G upgrade question

Reply #1 –
I ran mine around the core support like the factory wiring and put the fuse behind the core suppport.Keep it all looking factory......except I polished my alternator.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

3G upgrade question

Reply #2 –
When I did mine last November,instead of using a fuse holder I just went ahead and soldered 2 pieces of #12 fuse link to the end of the 4 ga. cable and hooked it up to my solenoid. plus I did the whole conversion for less than $47 inc. alt.
louie  :birdsmily:
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]       
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It seemed like a good idea at the time.        88TC R.I.P.      88 Sport build in progress

3G upgrade question

Reply #3 –
I used a 150-amp circuit breaker from the stereo shop...a measly $20, and no fuses to blow or fusible links to replace. A small arm just pops out if the CB pops...just push it back in to reset. Couldn't be simpler.

3G upgrade question

Reply #4 –
I do not have any fuses or circuit breaker installed in mine. I ran a heavy gauge wire (not quite as big as the battery cables) from the alternator around the core support directly to the battery. Mine has been done for about 4-5 years without any problems. What would installing a fuse or circuit breaker prevent?
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3G upgrade question

Reply #5 –
uhhh....fire? death?
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3G upgrade question

Reply #6 –
Quote from: bhazard;135483
uhhh....fire? death?
:giggle: Yeah, that

A fuse, fusible link, or C.B. will prevent fire if the alternator shorts out, or if that wire happens to rub on metal (very possible with it always moving on the alt end and ancd on the battery end). Where you've got yours running along the rad support, even a minor collision could pinch that wire and burn your car to the ground.

I ran my wire along the top of the engine over to the solenoid, and loomed it with factory style loom. It's not particularly neat, but it's as neat as the factory would have done it (in other words, it's as messy as the rest of the wiring harness). I used a MAXI fuse holder with a 100 amp auto-reset, "slow blow" circuit breaker (of course, cop car parts :hick:) - not quite up to the 130 amp rating of the alt, but it's never tripped yet...
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

3G upgrade question

Reply #7 –
I used a 2nd generation (92-95) taurus harness taken complete from the alternator to the taurus underhood fuse box.  All the plugs and fuse links are there.  Plug and play (with the exception of needing to splice the green "s" wire) and it is the correct length when run along the core just as the old 2g power wire was run back to the solenoid.
 

3G upgrade question

Reply #8 –
Thanks guys.Does the fuse or circuit breaker need to be closer to the alternator or solenoid or does it matter?      Joe

3G upgrade question

Reply #10 –
Always always. In any electrical circuit the fuse should be as close to the battery as possible - this goes for fog lights, amplifiers, stereo systems, and anything else. Just remember that any wiring between the battery and the fuse is unprotected, so you want to make this length as short as possible
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

3G upgrade question

Reply #12 –
Thanks everyone.Wiring is not my strong point,but y'all have been a big help.I'll be starting on it as soon as i get everything rounded up.I'll keep y'all posted.    Thanks again,  Joe

3G upgrade question

Reply #13 –
Good luck.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..