Injectors not firing.

Reply #15 – April 19, 2009, 12:34:40 AM

Quote from: tireshredder;268099

I ran 12v to one of the injectors, and sure enough, it clicks.

There is always 12v applied to the injectors when the ign switch is on, the EEC only provides a pulsing ground signal to fire the injector, if noid light blinks pulse is there....

Applying direct 12V to an injector, is a good way to burn out its coil...

Injectors not firing.

Reply #16 – April 19, 2009, 01:42:04 AM

I'll try to test the pressure. 40 psi, right?

I rebuilt the distributor when I bought it, so unless I installed the it wrong, I wouldn't think it would be the stator. But is there any way to test that, just in case?

And we did try to use starter fluid, but it died when we stopped.

Injectors not firing.

Reply #17 – April 19, 2009, 06:40:11 AM

Sure sounds like no fuel pressure... 40 psi is correct, but if it will squirt fuel out the test port on the fuel rail, it should run(can you hear the pump when switch is first turned on?)... AGAIN If the light pulses, assuming they are not stuck or the coil open, then the injectors should be firing, forget the distributor...

Injectors not firing.

Reply #18 – April 19, 2009, 11:02:30 AM

i didnt see anything wrong with a momentary touch of power / ground to verify the injector clicked. If i were thinking , i would have said to:
loosend the dizzy lock down
turn on key
rotate dizzy left and right and listen.
you should hear a buch of clicking.
(with the dizzy cap of to the side, this is where you can see how the stator comes in to play. usually the dizzy case is locked down in one spot as you set the timing so the housing / stator is stationary. since the housing is moveable, we can rotate the housing left or right to pass the rotating part of the dizzy's fins through the stator assembly. This is what the eec uses to reference what cylinder you are on. I did not know till a few years ago that one fin is slightly narrow denoting it as cyl1.)

for fuel testing you can......
jumper the tan/light green wire to chassis ground up at the eec test connnector.
turn on the key only
fuel pump should run full time
turn off key
wait (pump will take double the time to shut off)
remove jumper
go to trunk relay (near trunk hinge pass side)
ground tan light green wire to chassis
turn on key
pump should run full time.
turn off key (pump will take double time to shut off)
remove jumper

If you do not hear the pump run for 2-3 seconds just by turning on the key(no jumper), your eec control circuit on the tan/light green wire (eec pin 23 iirc) is not managing the ground.

If you are able to start the car with a jumper on the tan/light green wire bonded to chassis, then the eec is faulty. (ie- someone in the past has been fiddling with thier fuel pump relay and did not know how the circuit worked, this caused a backfeed to the eec and probably blew a diode on the eec board).