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Topic: Fog light harness question(s).... (Read 2052 times) previous topic - next topic

Fog light harness question(s)....

Reply #15 –
I'm using an aftermarket switch that fits into the factory place.I was window shopping on Ebay and saw a cool remote control setup for the fog lights.It really wouldn't serve a useful purpose for me,but it was cool.....and cheap.LOL. Hopefully soon I'll get the harness hooked up.I ran out of time today.I'll keep everyone posted on my results.
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Fog light harness question(s)....

Reply #16 –
Don't know if this helps any, but here is Hella's site for wiring diagrams and installation instructions for downloading:

http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaUSA/WebSite/Channels/Drivers/FAQs/FAQs.jsp

Not sure if the ones you have are listed as I am unsure which set you have, but they sure look nice.
1985 T'Bird 5.0
1987 Cougar 3.8
1992 T'bird Sport 5.0 HO

Fog light harness question(s)....

Reply #17 –
thats half the answer,,lol

So Ill make this simple and here is what I would do.

-Polarity is important on the coil of the relay
-measure across any given contacts until you find two that have no continuity across them even when meter leads are reversed.
-these will be your relay contacts.  I assume they shipped a Normally Open relay for this application (ie- the reason for only 4 connections).
-Next and this is important.... measure across the other two contacts.  You should read the coil resistance one way and the coil in parallel with the diode in the other.  when you find the diode, your meter will read something along the lines of .3 to .6 ohms.  when this happens, wherever your red meter lead is at this point happens to be your pos input connection.  the black meter lead is the respective relay coil ground.
-normally when its difficult to determine which of the remaining two legs is input power, i gator clip to a dc source and connect one leg to neg.
-next i barely and quickly tap power to the other and listen for a click.
-if there is no click, reverse your polarity.

from this point you established which leg of the coil is pos and neg so you can now wire it up per option 1 below.

I would wire the kit up like drawn.  Im not really sure why you dont want to integrate your existing harness into this kit but thats up to you. 
You might already have some or most of the wiring in place.

I would fuse / wire as ive drawn because it reduces wiring required.  It also puts less or no watts across the on/off switch.  It also protects both independent circuits.  In short, you only need to run one wire up to the fog lamp system keeping all control parts up near the hidden side of the switch....purdy nifty eh?

The reason i held off on my end is because with a three  wire toggle sw as shown in the factory diagram and option 2, its real darn hard to tell which contact is just the power path.  A man could easily read continuity from one leg to both of the other two legs and wonder which one is the led power path and which one is the lamp power path due to lack of manufacturers stamping ect.  Next thing you know, you have blown the purdy lil bulb in the switch but the other power path still exists.  The bad part to this is that the LED path is typically inline with the relay coil ground (low current) and if the bulb is blown, the relay will not get a ground as shown in option 2.

I suppose you could also join the relay coil input to the relay contact input with a single 20-30A fuse if you want, your call.
Its up to you though, just compare TC's and my drawings and get er done:hick:

Fog light harness question(s)....

Reply #18 –
..Or he could just wire it the way I showed, and be able to use all the stock wiring and relay harness that came with his fog light kit :hick: No need to complicate things.

Vinnie, you don't need to worry about coil polarity because your harness already takes care of that for you (if it even has a polarity sensitive relay, which I doubt it would, since it would be a more expensive relay and the polarity is not important with fog lights). Your harness only plugs into the relay one way and you know black is ground. The diagram I provided would be the correct diagram for your wiring harness, but even my diagram isn't really needed since you've got the harness and are not starting out from scratch. All you need to know is that black goes to ground, red goes to the battery, and blue goes to either the low beam circuit or an ignition switched power source, depending on how you want your fog lights to work. If you connect it to a low beam the fog lights will only work when the low beams are on. If you connect it to an ignition source they'll work any time the ignition is on (this is how mine are wired). You could connect it to the park light circuit as well, this would make it so that the fog lights only work when the park lights are on. That's it, really: The only decision you have to make is where to put that blue wire.

As for your switch: I'm assuming you're using a standard 3-pr0ng rocker switch with an indicator light. If this is the case, cut the switch plug off your Hella harness and connect the three wires (black, yellow, and blue) to the switch as shown in my diagram below. The orientation of the switch is important to get the polarity correct - the switch is shown upright (you push in the top part of the switch to turn it on) in my diagram. In this orientation the top wire is ground (black), the center wire is the output to the fog lights (yellow), and the bottom wire is power feed (blue). That's all you need to know to make it work with your harness.
2015 Mustang GT Premium - 5.0, 6-speed, Guard Green - too much awesome for one car

1988 5.0 Thunderbird :birdsmily: SOLD SEPT 11 2010: TC front clip/hood ♣ Body & paint completed Oct 2007 ♣ 3.55 TC rear end and front brakes ♣ TC interior ♣ CHE rear control arms (adjustable lowers) ♣ 2001 Bullitt springs ♣ Energy suspension poly busings ♣ Kenne Brown subframe connectors ♣ CWE engine mounts ♣ Thundercat sequential turn signals ♣ Explorer overhead console (temp/compass display) ♣ 2.25" off-road dual exhaust ♣ T-5 transmission swap completed Jan 2009 ♣

Fog light harness question(s)....

Reply #19 –
SWEEEEEEET !!!!!! I'll get on that Monday I hope.THANKS A LOT !!!!
'88 Sport--T-5,MGW shifter,Trick Flow R intake,Ed Curtis cam,Trick Flow heads,Scorpion rockers,75mm Accufab t-body,3G,mini starter,Taurus fan,BBK long tube headers,O/R H-Pipe, Flowamaster Super 44's, deep and deeper Cobra R wheels, Mass Air and 24's,8.8 with 3.73's,140 mph speedo,Mach 1 chin spoiler,SN-95 springs,CHE control arms,aluminum drive shaft and a lot more..

Fog light harness question(s)....

Reply #20 –
yep,, that be the exact switch layout i was explaining.  I concluded that the center of that type of switch was "common" so I made it and the LED contact as my fog lamp output.  Blew LED right away.

Fog light harness question(s)....

Reply #21 –
Ok, I have put off wiring my fogs long enough.  My car has never had fogs.  I have purchased a stock fog switch and stock fogs with the wiring harness.  I would like to run them straight without wiring them into the dimmer switch.  I have purchased a generic wiring harness from autozone.  The instructions look straight forward enough.

I am, however a bit confused.  My stock fog switch has a black, brown/orange, and blue/black wire coming off of it and I'm not sure what each goes to. 

The wiring harness that plugs into the fogs has two spades inside of them.  The wires that come out of the back are black and brown/orange on one, and on the other I have a black, brown/orange, and a lighter brown/orange wires.  The black is probably the ground, and the brown/orange is the positive... but what is the third, lighter brown/orange wire?

My theory is that you connect the two brown/orange wires together, which connects the two lights together, and maybe the lighter brown/orange wire goes to the relay to lamp wire (White).

The only thing is, that there is a connector on this white (relay to lamp wire) that I can connect two wires to.

So, my theory  is that I could eather run both brown/orange wires to this white wire and not utilize the lighter brown/orange wire. -OR- I could connect these two wires together, and then run the lighter brown/orange wire to the white.

Then would I connect the two black wires together and run a single wire for a ground?

One thing to know is that I don't know jack S*** about electrical stuff, so if you reply  speak sssllloooowwwwwwlllyyy.  LOL
===85BIRD===
:birdsmily:
 

Fog light harness question(s)....

Reply #22 –
Quote from: 85bird;268457
Ok, I have put off wiring my fogs long enough.  My car has never had fogs.  I have purchased a stock fog switch and stock fogs with the wiring harness.  I would like to run them straight without wiring them into the dimmer switch.  I have purchased a generic wiring harness from autozone.  The instructions look straight forward enough.

The stock hookup for non-auto lamp feature cars is:
Headlight switch-dimmer switch(lo beam side)-fuse 7-fog light switch.

Quote
I am, however a bit confused.  My stock fog switch has a black, brown/orange, and blue/black wire coming off of it and I'm not sure what each goes to.

Black is ground for the light in the switch
Brown/orange(tan/orange in EVTM) is the + voltage from the switch to the fog lights.
Blue/black is the + voltage coming into the switch.
 

Quote
The wiring harness that plugs into the fogs has two spades inside of them.  The wires that come out of the back are black and brown/orange on one, and on the other I have a black, brown/orange, and a lighter brown/orange wires.  The black is probably the ground, and the brown/orange is the positive... but what is the third, lighter brown/orange wire?

Correct but the EVTM does not show the extra wire.
Is it paired up with the other brown/orange wire?

Quote
My theory is that you connect the two brown/orange wires together, which connects the two lights together, and maybe the lighter brown/orange wire goes to the relay to lamp wire (White).

The only thing is, that there is a connector on this white (relay to lamp wire) that I can connect two wires to.

So, my theory  is that I could eather run both brown/orange wires to this white wire and not utilize the lighter brown/orange wire. -OR- I could connect these two wires together, and then run the lighter brown/orange wire to the white.

Then would I connect the two black wires together and run a single wire for a ground?

One thing to know is that I don't know jack S*** about electrical stuff, so if you reply  speak sssllloooowwwwwwlllyyy.  LOL

Here you are losing me. There is no relay in the stock hookup. Are you now talking about the Autozone harness? If so can you post a diagram of it?
Here is the stock diagram: