1977 Lincoln Mark V w/ EFI 460 + E40D, half finished project car for sale

January 10, 2008, 02:55:41 PM

Long story short: I've given up on a half-finished project car and am trying to sell it and reclaim a few of the many dollars that I poured in. It's a 1977 Lincoln Mark V with a Fuel-Injected 460 and E40D tranmssion from a '91 F-450 Super Duty. Read on to see what's in it, and give me ideas how I should go about this.

This is a picture of the car about five years ago, when I was driving it every day. It's not in as good of shape now, but this is the car.

It was in much nicer shape back then. Check below for more details on it's current condition.

This is just a preliminary add right now, seeing what any of this is worth. If anyone wants pictures, let me know and I can take them. The only catch is that I’m not willing to go through all the trouble of taking them out to part it out. You’ve gotta take the whole car as is. I’m on the north side of Chicago, IL The car has been sitting in my garage on blocks while I’ve worked on it on and off over the last few years, but it’s got less then 50 miles on the tires, and the rims are in great shape.

Inside this car is:

A freshly rebuilt fuel-injected 460 engine from a 1991 F-450, freshly rebuilt transmission from the same truck, and a professionally rebuilt rear end with 3.25 gears and posi . This was the first engine rebuild I’d ever done myself, and while I did it with experienced mechanics watching over my shoulder at every stage, you’ve been warned. This engine has never been started.

The Engine has:
-8.8:1 Kenith Black Hypereutectic pistons
-Comp Cams performance camshaft
-Bored .020 over
-Rebuilt factory (E) heads
-New oil, water pump
-Feldpro gaskets throughout
-Has stock distributor, fuel rails, and two replacement Accel injectors.

The Transmission is :
-Professionally rebuilt, 0 miles on it
-Came out of the same truck that the engine did
-Was converted to 2wd
-All hard parts were updated with ’96 spec parts
-Some of the larger poky-out bits on the outside of the transmission I had to cut off to make it fit into the transmission hump in the car (that was originally for a C6)
-Wiring harness has been spliced to adapt to a Baumanator TCS unit, with the cables sticking up into the passenger compartment. I do have a Baumanne TCS unit that you can have for a bit extra.

The Diff is:
-A professionally rebuilt 9” 3.25 Posi
-Fully rebuild with new all new bearings, gears and clutches
-The only bit that is stock is really just the case. All the internals are new.

IF YOU WANTED TO GET THE CAR RUNNING
You would need to do:
-Attach upper intake plenum & throttle body
-Finish running fuel lines and mount fuel pump (Have an Accel pump rated for up to 870hp)
-Mount gas tank (has all mounting hardware)
-Re-install radiator & hoses
-Connect alternator
-Deal with and hook up the computer system (I have the stock computer + harness, as well as an aftermarket engine management system and harness. Read below for info)
-Cap off or attach whatever random vacuum tubes need to be attached
-Install sensors and thermostat
-Attach starter
-Attach headers (Might need to get a new set, these have been slightly modified to accept the O2 sensor for the Accel DFI engine system)
-Run a new exhaust system (stock one was shot)

TO GET THE CAR DRIVING :

-Either s up the temporary transmission cross member I have in there, or fabricate a new one (I have the stock one for the car, but I don’t think it would be much use)
-Figure out a way to connect the shift linkage (I’ve flipped around the shift lever on the transmission so it points in the proper direction already, you’d need to figure out a mounting solution)
-Run transmission cooler lines
-Shorten the driveshaft (I have the stock one)
-Fill the diff with oil (I have a bottle of that Friction Modifier)
-Get transmission computer set up (I have a Baumanne TCS unit if you want it, and have spliced the connector into the stock wiring harness for the car, with the connector sticking up through the carpet into the passenger compartment. Should be good to go, just needs power and a program loaded)
-Hood would either need to be coweled, or a new intake plenum made to allow the hood to close. As it is, the stock intake plenum and throttle body are too tall to allow the hood to close
-Speedo cable needs to be hooked up, and wires spliced into the sensor. I don’t know what gear would need to be on the sensor, but I have both, the 16 tooth and 17 tooth.

TO GET THE CAR LOOKING NICE

Ah, bodywork. The real reason I gave up. When I started the project three years ago, the car was in really good shape. But three years of sitting on blocks in my garage has not been kind.

The chassis and frame are SOLID. In VERY good shape, factory undercoating still is near perfect. Has flaked off from the floor pan in two locations, above where the lers were, but the foot wells and such are perfect. Very, very clean.

The body panels are a problem. The passenger-side front fender would probably need to be replaced, as I ground it over a curb or something at some point, and it’s bent under in front of the wheel.

Doors might need to be replaced, as they’re rusting around the trim holes, and also rusting under where those chrome plates attack to the body under the door. Door trim has fallen off the passenger side (although I have it)

Drivers-side rear fender has a baseball-sized dent just in front of the tail light. Due to the rust from where the paint chipped off, would probably need to be cut and welded.

Chrome and trim is okay. Not great, not horrible, but okay. Would be suitable for a frequently driven and used car, not for a show car.

Landue roof was replaced about four years ago, and then some Maaco bodywork of patching a rust hole under the passenger-side opera window.

TO GET THE CAR IN GOOD, LIVEABLE CONDITION :

The interior is actually in really good shape, with the exception of the door panels, which are not stock (they are grey, the rest of the interior is yellow) and falling apart. The backseat is VERY clean, looks like it was hardly sat in, passenger seat is good as well. Drivers seat is worn through under where your left thigh would be. All power options (Including power windows and power wing vents) and movements work. Carpet was pulled out a year ago when I did the transmission wiring and shampooed.

Dashboard isn’t great, the fake wood trim is starting to flake off.

The driver’s door doesn’t open from the outside. Don’t know why.

I’ve got a decent sound system in it (nice 6x9s, 6”, small amps and a Rockford Fosgate MP3 deck). I’ll probably pull these out and keep them for my Impala SS.

IN RELATION TO THE ELECTRONICS FOR THE ENGINE AND TRANS:

I’ve got two options for you. I do have the stock harness, and stock computer. I ALSO have an Accel DFI Generic V-8 engine management system. If you know what this is, you know it’s really awesome, and expensive. If you don’t know what it is, it’s a stand-alone engine management system designed to run any V-8 engine. Want more info, google, but just know that it costs around $1500. I will probably keep this, and sell it separately, unless you want it with the car. It’s new in box.

1977 Lincoln Mark V w/ EFI 460 + E40D, half finished project car for sale

Reply #1 – January 10, 2008, 02:58:51 PM

Follow up, becasue evidently there's a 10,000 character limit:

As for the trans, I bought a Baumanator TCS unit with stub harness, and spliced it into the factory wiring harness for the transmission. If you plan on getting this car running, you’ll need this, if you just want it for the parts, it might be irrelevant.

In terms of what I’d want for the car: The parts for the engine cost me $800, plus the machine work and building it, so I’d guess it’s worth maybe a thousand bucks. It’s pretty, painted a Ford Engine Blue with a sloppy polish and clear coat job on the valve covers (That got a bit scratched up when installing the engine). I know these transmissions generally go for around a thousand freshly rebuilt, and the differential parts alone were $500.

I was thinking of e-bay starting at asking $3000 for the whole car, NOT INCLUDEING THE ACCEL DFI OR BAUMAN COMPUTER (the stock engine computer and harness I'd include for free with the car). If a buyer wanted the aftermarket engine and trans computers as well, we’d have to talk. The Bauman unit sells for $400, the Accel kit for around $1500

So, guys. Now that you've picked through this ABSURDLY long post that no one actually bothered to fully read, what do you think? Where should I post about this? How should I try and sell it?

1977 Lincoln Mark V w/ EFI 460 + E40D, half finished project car for sale

Reply #2 – January 10, 2008, 03:45:40 PM

Wow. Just gotta post here cause I feel bad for ya, thats a neat old BARGE and it's too bad that you couldn't make it happen, that would surely be a lot of fun to drive!

1977 Lincoln Mark V w/ EFI 460 + E40D, half finished project car for sale

Reply #3 – January 10, 2008, 04:01:41 PM

It would be, and while I do wish that someone would finish the project, I have a feeling most will want the car for the parts. I've just hit the limit of what one can learn from books and tinkering myself, I've got no idea how to finish it, and I'm just too drained emotionally.

I should mention that I would be VERY interested in some sort of a trade for a cruiser-style 700cc or larger bike, ideally with crash bars, saddle bags and a windsheild.