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Topic: Converter dilema (Read 5571 times) previous topic - next topic

Converter dilema

Reply #15 –
Actually, you don't have to convert to a 1-piece input shaft to get rid of direct-drive.  If you have a converter made up, like I'm going to do, your builder can remove the direct-drive assembly from the converter.  That way the converter will still work with your split input shaft.  You remove a lot of weight from the converter by sping the direct-drive assembly like that.
William

Converter dilema

Reply #16 –
But don't that still make it the weak link?
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +

No

Reply #17 –
Quote from: kitzdnm;235096
But don't that still make it the weak link?


No.  The reason why inner input shafts break so frequently on direct-drive AOD's is because the converter can't slip when the tranny is under power and shifted into 3rd, or 4th gear.  When you run a non direct-drive converter in an AOD, the converter is able to slip when the tranny is shifted into 3rd, or 4th gear under power.  Since the converter is able to slip, it takes away the big shock of the gear change.  That's why inner input shafts live so much longer when a non direct-drive converter is used.
William

Converter dilema

Reply #18 –
It sounds to easy,If that was the case everyone would just change converters.I want to talk to my trans guy and see what he thinks.I'm just more curious now.
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +

Converter dilema

Reply #19 –
That's how it is.  If you're running a high-horsepower car, you should go with a 1-piece input shaft, but for the cars I'm seeing around this forum, a split-shaft would still be ok.  If you're running over 450 hp, you should definitely be running a 1-piece shaft.
William

Converter dilema

Reply #20 –
Take a stick that's 1" in diameter and 5 feet long and swing it into a pole.  It's no surprise when the stick breaks.  The stick will break because the pole was immoble.  Now.  If you take the same 1", by 5 foot long stick and swing it into a rope that's hung vertically, you know the stick won't break.  The stick obviously won't break because of the rope giving in when the stick hits it. 

The same principles apply to that inner input shaft.

The non direct-drive converter gives when the tranny is shiznited into 3rd gear under WOT.  A direct-drive converter won't give under this senario.
William

Converter dilema

Reply #21 –
Take a stick that's 1" in diameter and 5 feet long and swing it into a pole.  It's no surprise when the stick breaks.  The stick will break because the pole was immoble.  Now.  If you take the same 1", by 5 foot long stick and swing it into a rope that's hung vertically, you know the stick won't break.  The stick obviously won't break because of the rope giving in when the stick hits it. 

The same principles apply to that inner input shaft.

The non direct-drive converter gives when the tranny is shiznited into 3rd gear under WOT.  A direct-drive converter won't give under this senario.
William

Converter dilema

Reply #22 –
Ok,thats all good,what if the pressure on the TV is to high.
It's all up in the air,It's an AOD,They are not the best trans.
The insides are week.
I'm done  with this post for now!
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +

Oh yeah

Reply #23 –
One more thing I want to add is that a very reputable AOD builder Dan, who goes by the screen name "Silverfox" in forums like "Click Click Racing" claims that by doing nothing more than switching to a non direct-drive, or "non lock-up" converter, you double the strength of your AOD.  I see even really knowledgeable AOD guys seeking Dan's opinion and input on AOD's.

Sorry for answering the question you asked.  :giggle:
William

Converter dilema

Reply #24 –
Well than jump on it. Your mind is already set.
Old Grey Cat to this.88 Cat, 5.0 HO, CW mounts, mass air, CI custom cam, afr165's, Tmoss worked cobra intake, BBK shorty's,off road h pipe, magnaflow ex. T-5,spec stage 2 clutch, 8.8 373 TC trac loc, che ajustables with bullits on the rear. 11" brakes up front. +

Converter dilema

Reply #25 –
Quote from: Blue Thunder;235122
One more thing I want to add is that a very reputable AOD builder Dan, who goes by the screen name "Silverfox" in forums like "Click Click Racing" claims that by doing nothing more than switching to a non direct-drive, or "non lock-up" converter, you double the strength of your AOD.  I see even really knowledgeable AOD guys seeking Dan's opinion and input on AOD's.

Sorry for answering the question you asked.  :giggle:


I was going to suggest talking to Dan...aka Silverfox...when it comes to AOD's he IS the guy to trust....make sure you run plenty of trans cooler with a non-lock convertor.
Project 3G: Grandpa Grocery Getter-'85 Crown Vic LTD 2-door, 351W with heavily ported/polished GT40 heads, heavily ported/polished Typhoon Power Plus upper & lower intake, Comp Cams 265DEH retarded 1*, FAST EZ-EFI, HD T5, 8.8" 3.73 trac lock with extra clutches, 3G alt. swap, '99 CVPI front brakes, '09 CVPI rear disc brakes, '00 CVPI booster&m/c + wilwood adj prop valve.

Parted & Gone-'88 T-bird Sport, 351W swap, ported GT40 heads
 

Converter dilema

Reply #26 –
Definitely.  A B&M "Super Cooler" is in my future for sure.  :D
William