Well I guess this just about concludes replacing EVERYTHING in my audio setup. I've got a question though. I'm looking at a really good deal on an Orion Extreme 800.4 amp, but while I haven't went to look at it or test it yet, the pictures of the speaker outputs and power connectors look like something I've never seen before. Ayone know how these work? A lot of people on a google search seem to hate the things, although they provide a more secure connection than anything else.
What are these and how do they work?
PICTURE (http://"http://home.comcast.net/~seekproj/Outputs.JPG")
cant really make out how they work, any way you could get a better pic?
I picked it up, its just round "rods" sticking out. Needs a special or custom made connector
All I can say is call orion. I'v never seen anything like that.
http://home.comcast.net/~seekproj/DSCF0028.JPG
thats weird, like reverse banana plugs or something.
Tested the thing with just holding the wires up to where they need to be, and it works like it should...I just don't have an easy way of hooking them up at this time. Its either spending $60 to get replacements, or finding something from home depot that would work
Would the male side of those crimp on plug connectors fit on them? I would just open up the amp and solder wires on to the circuit board if there was enough room in there then put heat shrink tubing over the wire and the 'nub' on the apm to make sure it stays put.. but i'm a cheap
(http://www.car2rv.com/amt/amtbuttconnectors.jpg)
Something like this might work depending on the size.
I'm thinking I can find something that'll work for the speaker connectors (as long as the insulation around it isn't too thick) and remote, but the power "studs" are a bit larger. Having 3-30amp fuses, I can only imagine how much power goes through those things. Saw something about a power wire connector on a forum, but the webpage it was pointing to no longer exists.
The amp is the one reviewed HERE (http://"http://www.carreview.com/cat/car-audio/amplifiers/orion/PRD_50395_1806crx.aspx"). Paid $40 after testing all 4 channels
I was thinking more along the lines of these bullet connectors
Sounds like you got an awesome deal
Those fit snug around the speaker posts, but are way too small for the power.
Emailed DEI but I doubt I'll get any help. May just have to solder directly to the thing...but with 4 gauge wire? Pfft. The factory "connectors" took 4 gauge wire themselves.
If I could find some...probably 8 or 6 gauge butt connectors, I'd be set
edit:
preferrably not online
HERE'S a picture of the power posts...not much to work with. Its the same thickness as 4 gauge wire (http://"http://home.comcast.net/~seekproj/power1.jpg")
Rig up some jumper cables from your battery. I have never seen an amp with connectors like that. What the hell were they thinkin building that? Does that thing work alright?
Supposedly THESE (http://"http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5822901503") are the same ones used on this amp, and after talking with the guy, I ordered a set. Have all the wiring I need now and am putting on all the ends where they need to be. What's the easiest way to shove a wire through the firewall? Trying to avoid being outside as much as possible, since its going to keep raining for the next...oh, probably 3 weeks.
The amp itself works great. Just had to hold the power wires on during testing. I'm surprised the things never touched
Of course, I haven't a clue on how I'm going to mount it. May have to make a custom bracket.
I shoved mine through the grommet by the steering column. Works fine for me, its all coming out though.
On the tbird I ran mine under the fender and in through the front door jamb on the passenger side. On the sprint there was a grommet above the steering column that was empty so everythig went through there.
Through the clutch cable grommet in the fire wall. All the cars have this even if a manule wasn't offered. My XR7 had it so guess what thats were it went.
Yeah, I already got the majority of the wiring done last night. Just running the front speaker wires to the center console since I already ran new wires from the console to the speakers. Just add connectors and I'm good to go. Well, once the amp plugs arrive.
Ran the power wire along the drivers side and the 4 speaker wires, 2 sets of RCA's, and remote along the passenger, all ziptied up/organized. Car's back together now.
Would have been a lot easier had it not been raining.
This is what I did with my car, untill recently! Now i'm searching for another hole.
run the wiring all the way to the other side of the bay, and there's an unused grommet
Since I have the power to spare with this amp, whats a good bass blocker to use for the 3.5's in the dash? What frequencies should it avoid, while still having a somewhat "full" sound coming from the speaker? And whats with the ratings on some of these things? 1,200 Hz, 2,800 Hz, and 5,600 Hz...under 'bass blockers'. So confusing.
I ran it through the passenger side where the main harness goes through. It's a bit of a hassle, but well worth it once you've gotten it fed through.
Well, that was short lived. My $99 deck was stolen sometime last night and now I have 2 nice holes in the passenger side door and the trunk lid.
All for a $150 system
...and I didn't have ESN active over the weekend when wiring =/
Can't get the factory system working again...put everything back where it should be, all wires, correct, but the EQ isn't turning on. There isn't any power on the power wire going to the EQ so I ran it from the stereo's power input, but still no power from the EQ.
Tried running the lineouts from the stereo directly to the factory amp, still no sound. Don't know whats wrong