So after many years of sitting I'm going to have this car back in one piece, not that it really ever wasn't but all of the parts that I wanted to install will be installed finally.
When I bought this 88 XR7 From Mayhem it was a really nice clean rust free car. It has been repainted and was really a 20ft car but it was/is clean.

Under all of this filth is a still decent looking car. However it is going to need painted soon and some body work. It has always had hail damage on the roof that is pretty bad.

I have been gathering parts out of various sheds and barns and so far I have all but a couple bolts worth of parts to install my T5.
So far this weekend I was able to drop the fuel tank, exhaust and drop the transmission. This transmission didn't survive the GT40 head/intake swap, one of the reason I stopped driving it.

So while I have flip flopped the no money lots of time to lots of money and no time I have been spending a little me time on some projects lately. While pulling the transmission I found that the oil pan is so rusty it looks as if it could leak, so I'll be pulling the engine next. With that I'll be able to clean the bay up and paint it. I'm torn between staying white or going black. Either way It will be fun cleaning this car back up and eventually driving it again, its been fun cruising the forum the past couple days too.
Crusty Old H pipe. I might just purchase a new one instead of cleaning this thing up.

Crusty Old Flow masters.
I'd keep it white.
Did the car have dumps or are the tail pipes still ok?
Right on...good to see you back in the mix!
I was going to suggest power washing it and getting it cleaned up to help motivate, but you went balls deep already.
Nothing, strait out the ler. A set of stinger tail pipes should take care of that, if they still make them.
It was such a pain to get it drug around the yard and into the garage that we didn't stop to wash it. Hopefully I can drive it out to wash soon.
Claude!
Good to see you back in the mix.
I've been dealing with a thousand other projects, myself, and mine is just sitting in the garage with the ass end in the air.
Might even be worth pushing it back out to give it a bath. Should roll a little easier with the trans, etc out of it. :D
Nice!!! Can't wait to see the after pics! :burnout:
Another vote to keep it white. Is it just me or do the Cougars just look waaaay better than a Bird with the Turbine wheels?
I love the turbine wheels but I really want to do a 5 lug conversion and run the Crown Vic HPP wheels. I love the way a Grand National looks with that style wheel and would really like to see that style wheel on an 87-88 cougar.
Well if you say so. :hick:
Now you can throw a cover or something on it if you need to, and not risk all of the crud doing any damage. :)
I also vote that you keep it white.
The poor night time picture makes it look better than it is. Even scrubbing spots I can’t get all the crud off. Probably come off when I sand it . :hick:
Have you tried soaking it in Simple Green :hick:?
As bad as the inside of this things smells i wish I had a swimming pool of simple green.
I've had a lot of good luck doing that. I bought a gallon jug of Simple Green and a spray bottle from Home Depot. They have spray bottles with a big opening to pour stuff in which is awesome. Fill the spray bottle with full concentration. Walk laps around the car keeping it wet with Simple Green. Grab an old wash rag/mitt/sponge that you don't care about ever reusing and go to down. Try to still keep it wet with Simple Green. If you have a power washer, that will work even better.
I've had some good luck with DampRid buckets to pull the moisture out, and using the baking soda type products for eliminating pet odors. I don't know how bad it is, but that might take the edge off.
Yup. That's exactly what I meant. Soak it in Simple Green, scrub it down, power wash off. After you get as much off as you can hit the car with some heavier duty polish, like Meguiars Ultimate Compound, on a DA polisher. You might be able to get all the scuzzy stuff off that way.
Not just you, Turbine wheels look the best on Cougars.
Motors out! Like riding a bike, I think i had it out in less than an hour!

I'm not going to lie, part of me pulled the engine to clean this engine bay up. Looks terrible compared to several on here.

Lucky this thing is very sound underneath.

Next thing is to buy an engine stand as I don't know where mine is. I plan to tear into the engine and replace the cam and make a few other upgrades, and some paint. I have the explorer intake but I never put the 65mm throttle body on. I really went cheap putting this thing together back in the day, alot of those skipped steps I need to fix now. Several other things I want to replace, new injectors being one of them and all the hoses and O2 sensors. The radiator needs replaced it has several green spots on it, does anyone have any experience with the ebay aluminum radiators?
I run the Ebay 3 row aluminum radiator. No issues at all, very sturdy. I use a Taurus electric fan on it. I fabbed aluminum brackets as I hate those stupid zip tie things. When I wired the fan, I installed a plug, that way, when I want to pull the radiator, I simply unplug the fan, unbolt the radiator, and pull it out as an assembly.
Nice work so far pulling the motor and I'm sure glad you are showing the old Cat some love.
I'm installing an N41 cam in my engine next week and a different intake, then selling off my Ed Curtis cam and Trick Flow R. We'll see how the new stuff works out.
Engine bay looks solid. Just sand, primer, and paint and you'll be good to go.
I did the GT40 head/intake swap years ago. Got the badge. Ditched it for aftermarket stuff. Car runs so much better. If I had know better I would have saved the money and just did it right the first time.
This thing is already the full GT40 minus the throttle body and egr spacer. At this point in life I don't see myself upgrading this beyond freshening up and back to reliable. We are in the middle of renovating a house and selling another so most funds are going to that.
Well with house stuff going on that's more important. Getting running right and worry about upgrading later whenever you have a chance.
Bought an engine stand.

And started tearing it down. I'm sure glad to see these headers go, they were always leaking because the ball/socket was damaged and would never seal. I am hoping to only go so far as to maybe take the accessory brackets off and clean and paint from there. I don't want to spend too much time on this. The Bronco was in this spot in my garage for almost 4 years. :hick:
Thunderjet, do you have a thread somewhere about your past engine detailing?
Yeah, scope creep will get ya.
We just had to swap engines in the wife's 850. Took a little bit with the typical "While I'm in here" 's, house projects, and a baby.
Having them running/mobile is much preferred.
Wife and baby? Man I haven’t talked to you in a while.!
I don't have a write up on how I detailed the engine bay in my car. Basically just paint the inner fenders, firewall, and radiator support. As far as the engine goes sand/strip the accessory brackets and then prime/paint with engine or high heat silver. Try and match the factory colors for everything else. Engine just paint whatever color you want. Ford gray is the factory color if you're going for that look.
I almost shat myself when I saw he finally had a baby. I didn't think it was possible.
I also has a wife and kid! (And a white fox that hasn't run in years!)
Well, to be fair, the wife was the one who had the baby. I just helped get things rolling. ;) He just turned 1 a couple weeks ago.
Chuck's wife didn't have the baby.
Chuck went down to the shop, created the junior outta some steel stock, using a CNC machine LOL.
Congrats again!..
I guess a better choice of words would have been "obtained a baby."
Well I found some time to roll the car back outside and power wash the engine compartment again. I pulled the headlight harness out and all the a/c components as well as all the misc brackets. I started sanding and priming with some red oxide primer I had. I still need to go and purchase some white paint.

Thanks for the feedback. I think I'll purchase one of the combo's that has the aluminum shroud and fans. Now I need to decide if I want two fans or one big one.
So many new things to learn about old friends! I need to get your number as well!
On a previous car, I used the large single fan, and was able to mount the 5.0 coolant reservoir right to the shroud next to the fan. I wish I had pictures now.
My current stock reservoir is in good shape forward of the core support. I don't want to do too many things that don't look stock. I like the cleaned up stock engine bay look with appropriate upgrades. The car is Maf converted already using an A9L with a 70mm F2vf setup mounted to a stock mustang bracket connected to the stock air cleaner minus silencer, it looks stockish. I am torn with painting the aluminum black to make it disappear to match the stock look, However this project is already behind what my goals were time wise.
I forgot about the coolant reservoir being forward of the core support. I've only owned one 5.0 car and I only had it for about 2 months before I got rear-ended.
I also like blending in modifications. I don't want to aim for the stock look, but I really dislike parts sticking out. A big aluminum radiator would stick out like crazy.
While you're in there change the sway bar bushings. They are factory. I can tell as the plastic cages that hold the bolts in place on the assembly line are still on your car....
Edit: Also don't lose rubber insulation that goes on either side of the radiator. It helps to force all the incoming air through the radiator.
I have plans for the suspension coming down the road, I’ll put all that off until I have the two post lift setup in the shop when I move.
I have all of the plastic and other material from the radiator area set aside for reinstall. Goes along with my desire for it to look factory.
I'm glad you kept the plastic. It actually helps.
I mean a lift would be great for the sway bar bushings. I did the ones on mine using jack stands. Not so fun. But a lot easier than changing the rear control arms using jack stands. That wasn't fun.
Had a moment to further tear the engine down. Still not sure if I want to tear it further down than this, I could be happy with painting the block grey and just taping the timing cover off and shooting it again. The intake I could happy with just wire brushing it. My plans don't include this engine beyond the next couple years however If I could find a good price on a cam I would tear down for that. The engine has an early 5.0 HO cam in it now so no lope.

The first of the new parts showed up. I ordered this off ebay, the pictures all showed no low oil level sensor hole but its there. The current engine oil pan does not have the sensor in it but I do still have the original engine down at the farm, I'll probably grab the sensor from it this weekend. A new one is $100! Hopefully the short piece of wire harness is there as its not in the car.
My car had that low oil sensor. When the engine was rebuilt I even got an oil pan like you have so the sensor could be put back in. About a year later the sensor started leaking from the center of the body. Found out a new one was stupid expensive. So I took the old one to a local auto parts store and found a drain plug with the same threads. Screwed that plug in and pulled the harness for the sensor and threw it out. No more leaks and cost me ~$3.
I checked the eBay add again and it showed a plug in this hole, I’ll check the box when I get home maybe it’s in the bottom.
How much you guys pay for your pans? I need to get a new one, mine leaks.
Well I bought the one for my car 10 years ago. That receipt is long gone.
More new parts. Pressure plate bolts and a new exhaust hanger.
Got some work done today when the kids let me. They are just young enough that I need to keep a close eye on them.
This is a B- rattle can job. Its what I have time for but I used a good quality spray paint that seems to have good coverage and lay down nice however it is drying very slow.
I have a new heater core, a/c lines, radiator and starter coming in. Need to order a few 5.0resto parts, like the battery tray and cable combo.

Lookin' good. Dig the white mirrors too, they look nice on a white car. Remember when I stripped and painted the grille on my white V6 Bird? You even made a cool sig image with that car for me. ;)
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l110/fordtruckfreeek/vehicle%20pics/1988%20Thunderbird/bodycolorgrill.jpg) (http://s94.photobucket.com/user/fordtruckfreeek/media/vehicle%20pics/1988%20Thunderbird/bodycolorgrill.jpg.html)
And I still have that image saved somewhere both in photoshaget and burnt onto a cd LOL.
I'm always keeping an eye open for an '88 5.0 Bird. Most I see around here are rusted or wrecked or need so much, and I'm not gonna start with another clapped out POS, unless I can't find anything better. Still, I'll have to delete a Mustang from the herd before I take on another project. Space here isn't an issue, it's more of a "wife says no more hobby cars unless one goes away first" kinda thing. :-\
I like the 88 XR-7 specific stuff and was so happy to have bought this car back when I did for so cheap, I want to keep it XR-7 but pay homage to my old SE that started it all.
I'm still trying to get used to all the names of the past, I can't even remember who I have met and what real names I remember. I can't recall the signature stuff I made back then but I remember doing it. Its yet to sink in that I spent more than a year at times without posting and probably have more posts this month than I did in 6 years.
Ironically my wife wants a project of her own, rather something for me to build for her to drive. She wants a 55 ford truck but I have her convinced a 66 is just as cool, Those I can afford! :hick:
I envy your speed of getting things done !
The build pictures are awesome.
Keep up the good work !
Nothin' wrong with a Bumpside truck either, but sounds like she knows what she wants lol.
BTW, this is what you made for me..many winters ago. Probably 12 or 13 years at this point..
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l110/fordtruckfreeek/vehicle%20pics/1988%20Thunderbird/freeek.jpg) (http://s94.photobucket.com/user/fordtruckfreeek/media/vehicle%20pics/1988%20Thunderbird/freeek.jpg.html)
Thanks. Between the farm and the regular job and kids I have little time. My wife has been great about letting me play in the garag after taking so many years off from my own hobbies.
Hey I remember now! Your username has changed! Is the car around still?
No, it's gone now, I had a Sport that came and went since then, too, though it's carcass still resides here.
I really miss that white car, I lived some crazy times in and with that car.
Looks great. Late Model Restoration has replacement under hood decals to help make it look factory.
I started installing parts back, everything has gotten cleaned or painted. I have been trying to route the wire harness back closer to factory and taping the harness mounts back on. I have some harness tubing to buy to clean a few places up like the ten pins and at the starter solenoid.

Good I will probably buy them I like the restored look.
New Headers, ebay stuff but they seem to be quality.
Let us know how it goes. I should really send my A9P off for a cap replacement. I looked at it about 2 years ago and the caps were fine. I'd just like to have them replaced before they leak.
I drove home an 87 Cougar, parts car, a few years ago with the original engine.
The car was from an estate of a mechanic.
The performance of the engine was quite remarkable for the original 302.
I pulled the ECM and it was stamped Taurus/Sable on the outside.
Got it in a box somewhere.
I wonder what's inside ?
Who would have thought we would have these problems when we were playing with these things 15-20 years ago?
I didn't think I'd even have the same car for 16 years....
14 years for me, I bought the SE at the end of 2004 and found you guys in January 2005. I was never a member of the old board. My good friend John (blue84302) is why I ever bought the first car. The SE came from the junkyard and now is back in a junkyard.
Well I started pulling the car apart inside. The dash is a cracked disaster and the harness is a mess. I never had the dash out of this car but someone else has. The heater box has been glued back together and the harness is a twisted mess. I did find out why my electric temp control was in trouble, one of the motors for one of the blend doors was unplugged. The seats stink and are moldy, the carpet was soaking wet and stinky, I'll take it to the car wash and power wash it.
Does anyone have a dual power seat harness they want to sell? I believe I have a passenger power track.


Years ago when I did the t5 swap on the 88 I found a 5 speed car at the junkyard that had the manual version of this plate. If I can get down to the farm and out to my friends junkyard where the SE is I would like to install that proper plate. If time doesn't allow I will just use this one or maybe someone is parting out a 5 speed car and would like to sell me this hump. Late Model Restoration has a version for the mustang but there hump wasn't bolt in like ours and I fear that it wont fit correctly.
I know there is a header in this pic, but all I can see is your kids! Dangit man, I haven't seen your family in a long time!
That 5spd hump is one part I wanted to pull from my TC before it left that I didn't get done....
Rachael and I had our six year wedding anniversary yesterday so It was six years ago!
I found the 65mm Explorer tb I never installed and a very rusty 5 lug conversion.

https://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/
You may need to do this...
I had real good luck with Evapo-Rust. I did before and after pictures, but that was before Photobucket went to the dark side.
If you want to peruse the pictures are here: http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee3/snuff9797/after_evapo_rust.jpg (http://"http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee3/snuff9797/after_evapo_rust.jpg")
Edit: make sure you paint or zinc plate the parts after removing the rust with Evapo Rust otherwise they rust up very quickly being exposed.
You've got a lot of parts stashed away.
Those 24lb injectors should be fine with GT40 heads. Save the 30lb injectors. If you ever go with better flowing aluminum heads you'll need them (my car did).
.
There is only 6 30lb injectors. I don’t know if I will ever go the aluminum head route. Probably switch engine platforms before that.
30lb injectors are probably from a Thunderbird SC, since you only have 6.
I've thought about Coyote swaps. By the time I get all required parts/a new transmission I might as well go Dart 363 and be done with it.
But, that 363 is pretty much at a ceiling, whereas the Coyote design isn't even close to it's peak yet..
If it weren't a question of money, my next project would be a Coyote. Or even a 32v...
LSx and be done with it.
2JZ brah
Pffft. Honda J35.
You still in Lancaster Claude?
I am!
Still plugging away, been buying parts more than working on the car. Finally tracked down the correct tunnel piece for a t5 over a floor shift auto.

So I started cleaning the carpet because its filthy. Soaked and scrubbed in purple power and then power washed. I'm in the works of purchasing a new heater box from 50racer to install in the car because mine is awful.

Carpet came out surprisingly nice.
Nice, been a long time since I posted on the forums. Had trouble with sign on for awhile, and basically gave up. Decided to drop in and check on things. Nice to see you are bringing another one back to life.
I probably have those heritage windows somewhere still!
Now if I can get the padding dried I would install it. I usually power wash carpets in the summer. I am thinking I will build a tent over it on the garage with a tarp and a dehumidifier under it.
Can you hang it somewhere and put a fan on it? Probably dry it better than a dehumidifier.. ;)
Can you put the carpet in a heated basp00get?
I can and with our fuel oil furnace our basp00get is super dry, like uncomfortable dry. Just have to wheel the table saw out of the way.
I have two macho dehumidifiers that I bought for the basp00get of the new old house. One could dry anything out. I’m gonna try the basp00get first.
Get you some silica beads and suck the moisture out!
Where ever you hang the carpet to dry run a fan along with it. The fan helps a lot.
Especially in combination with a dehumidifier.
What dehumidifiers are you using? I need one for my garage.
I have a Haier that I have been very happy with. It is over 10 years old now and keeps on kicking.
Yeah, I have a dual fuel (oil, wood) stove downstairs, and I used to sleep down there as a kid. Always had nosebleeds in the winter from the dryness.
I wish it was that dry in the basp00get now...
I have GE dehumidifier from Home Depot. Been running well for a few years now. SF can be very humid when the fog moves in :)
Mine were both about $300 from Menards, they have pumps built in and dont need emptied.
The carpets moved into the basp00get and hopefully will be dry here very soon. I still need to change the transmission hump, hopefully this weekend.
Ordering a dash cover as my dash is the worst.
Whats a Menards...
:rollin:
Finally found some time to work on the car, all of 20 minutes.
Now that I have a new heater box on the way I figured I better fix the only thing keeping the carpet from going back in when its dry. Its pretty much dry now.

I don't know that I have seen a picture of these two transmission tunnel parts together so here it is.

I had to pull back sound deadening to get to the bolts that hold this on, alot of it came right up because it had been wet so long. I went ahead and pulled up all the loose bits. I'll probably just use some peal and seal from lowes to replace the missing stuff. I had good luck with it in my Bronco II. So Hopefully the carpet and dash can go back in next weekend.
In my car, it appears that someone spilled some oil in the trunk, so when I pulled up the liner all of the sound deadener just came completely apart. I don't recommend using that method to get it out, but it was most effective.
So auto vs. manual hump?
Hopefully I got the right one when I bought it a while back. Not even sure where it is now
Yeah if you look at Erics cool cats page on the floor shift conversion he talks about mounting the shifter to the tunnel and it sitting flush with the trim plate. This is the plate (bottom one) that Lifts it up and make the shifter stand proud of the trim plate 3/4". What one do you need?
Pulled the car back into the garage tonight, I am tired of all the rain we have been having lately and the swinging temperatures. The carpet is dry so after some sound deadening repair it will go back in.

Now for the first set back in the whole project, this broken lower intake bolt in the head. Luckily it is on the end of the head and sticking up. I'll let it soak with Blaster for a couple days before heating it up and trying to drill it out.
That bolt issue sucks. What gasket was in there? Looks like there was a leak and/or silicone around the water ports. When you reinstall the intake grab a set of Fel Pro gaskets for a stock 5.0 Explorer. They fit perfect and seal the water ports with no silicone. They are a steel core graphite gasket.
Also use some ARP bolt lube when you put the intake back on. Keeps the bolts from sticking. When I've torqued the intake down I do it in the correct order and recommend three torque steps. On the final torque step I keep going around in the correct sequence till the bolts stop moving. It usually takes 4-5 times around till the bolts stop moving. I've had 0 leaks doing it that way.
https://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39842&d=1540690828
What I didn't know was that this is a bolt on part.
Mine was quite the hack job when I got it.
but I have the shifter all back together now.
The tunnel from the parts car in now on my to-do list.
Sweet, I still have my Heritage. Even built a new garage just for it.
I managed a few minutes in the garage today and got the carpet back in. I used some inexpensive peel and seal to replaced the damaged sound deadening. Its cheap and causes lots of controversy on the interwebz but I have used it in the past with good results and no smell.

Glad to have clean dry carpet.
Looking good. What is the name/brand of the peel and stick insulation you used ?
It is labeled "Peel and Seal" from Lowes. I covered the floor in my Bronco II with it and it made a huge difference in the amount of heat transferred through the floor. I would say it helped with the sound but I haven't installed carpet yet and the huge tires are loud anyways.
That carpet came out really well.
Thanks for the tip! I might pick some up for a project coming up.
It’s not too bad, the iPhone picture makes it look better than it is. There is a burn in the rear footwell.
I have planned on going cobra brakes with my 5 lug, today the difficult to find parts arrived. I had been watching them on Ebay and they went on sale so I jumped. The rest of the parts are on the way.
Next I need to order a new flywheel and clutch kit. Its the major hold up before the engine can be installed.

Just a suggestion but I’ve run this RAM clutch set on my Coupe for years now and it’s been a great clutch. So good that when it wore out (45,000 miles of abuse) I bought another one. Feels like a stock clutch as far as pedal effort but holds a lot better (I destroyed a King Cobra clutch set in about 10K Miles).
https://ramclutches.com/product-family/street/street-clutch-sets/hdx-performance-clutch-sets
I am running a Centerforce billet flywheel only because it was on sale when I needed a new one. Biggest thing is make sure it is SFI approved. I would stick with brand names here and not eBay junk but it’s your feet and legs.
I have read good things about Ram while researching.
I am running a Centerforce II clutch and pressure plate and a Ford Racing billet flywheel with no problems.
Centerforce is another great clutch manufacturer. Couple of other things, positive stop shifter (MGW's are the shiznit), adjustable clutch cable with a fire wall adjuster, and a clutch quadrant. I like the adjustable clutch cable so I can preliminarily set my clutch cable tension up under the car then use the firewall adjuster for final and then tuning over time.