NAPA
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP7304956
O'Reilly
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-oe-solutions-3387/lighting---electrical-16777/connectors-sockets-16631/engine-oil-cooler-line-connector-14715/4b17ab1b3a12/dorman-oe-solutions-connector/800608/4257517/1986/ford/mustang?q=800608&pos=0
AutoZone
https://www.autozone.com/fittings-and-hose-line-connectors/transmission-line-connector/help-ford-1982-2000-transmission-line-connector/238664_0_0?fromString=search&make=&model=&year=
Hope that helps.
yes there is a oring,,
clean it up better, its fitted into a groove machined out on the interior of the fitting.
there are several styles of this fitting, its easy to get the wrong one so bring your old one.
the trajectory of the line entry is critical. If the trans line is a tad bent one way or the other, it canters the lines entry point and will cause a leak.
just eyeball it to make sure the line is entering all squared up.
another thing,,
if you happen to decide to go all geek on this, tell us if you were able to replace the o ring... i never tried it but if you have time, see if its possible.
the holding clip never really goes bad up to this point but the o ring does get some abuse due to constant rubbing as the engine flex moves the metal against the rubber.
When I bought one from a Ford dealer (long time ago) they came packaged as a pair. The radiator and transmission ends are different sizes. At least they were for an 84 3.8L with the C5 trans.
I'd found the full part, but was trying to be weird/frugal and get just the o-ring since the metal and plastic piece appear to be in working order.
I'll be sure to get them to line up. I'm somewhat amazed Ford chose such a setup and that it seems to work for so long. The pressure from the plastic clip to the o-ring/flare is the only thing keeping a seal.
Looks like a #6 HNBR o-ring from an HVAC o-ring set I have fits. We'll see if it works. If not, I'll just buy the whole fitting.
http://www.sealanddesign.com/page/hydrogenated-nitrile-material
LOL,,
like the 10mm bolts that hold your engine in your car? on your motor mount rubber isolaters ????
They have pieces of plastic pushing an o-ring against a mating surface? I don't follow.
When I got the new pieces I saw how they actually function. The o-ring is in the middle. The o-rings in 30 year old units were flat as a board and blended in with the hole diameter. As jcassity suggested, replacing the o-rings is a fools errand.
No leaks with the new bits. (The pan is another story...)
You really should take the trans cooling duties away from the radiator, it's not that good at it. A nice big standalone trans cooler will drop TFT to where it runs 10 to 30 degrees below ECT. No new vehicles cool ATF in the radiator anymore. On my car, I found that the coolant wasn't cooling the trans as much as the trans was heating the coolant. My TFT was over 250, pretty much of the time, and now on an 85F ambient temp day with in town driving, it hits around 185.
Just make sure the transmission cooler is large enough to cool the transmission, i.e. don't use one of those tiny ones that barely cools anything.
Our 2014 Runner, brother's 2018 Highlander and neighbor's Sienna all have radiator based transmission coolers.
My AOD has made it 260k miles w/o any extra cooling, I think I'll keep it that way until it croaks or gets replaced with a manual. :D