Does anyone here have a 5 speed and long tube headers? I am going to install a set and was wondering if there's any issues with header to clutch cable?
http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/1157643-clutch-cable-long-tubes-what-do-you-guys-do-87-93-a.html
^^^ this might help. Do a bit of reading, maybe look at post #16
-Kyle
I read it. Seems like the answers go back and forth. I'm sure a few members here have long tubes.
I have BBK 1-3/4 long tubes on my 5.0 with stock bellhousing and a t5. Zero issues
Sounds like a lot of those headers are for automatic trans equipped cars.
I had LT's when I had my 5.0 and T-5 in my '83 and had zero issues but I did wrap my clutch cable in header wrap. Same thing I did when I put the 351W in the car, thread is here and scroll down to Post #5:
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?38519
Vinnie. I contemplated LTs as well. I actually have a set that came with a parts car. When I looked at the pros and cons, I decided the few HP in difference wasn't worth the effort as I don't race this one. Shortys and the X pipe give me enough along without the hassle we're talking here and ease of service. This comming from a guy who lived to race! When I built this, I constantly had to pull back on cam, intake, gears, heads etc, as I went this route on my Comet. The Cougar is nice to get in,turn on the A/C and get 26 mpg as compared to the Comet that takes Av gas, gets 11mpg doesn't have an ounce of insulation in it! LOL ��
Well if you get them in let us know how they fit. I've contemplated long tubes, but that would require converting to a floor shift. Plus I'm not sure the long tubes would clear the stock engine mounts, so then I'd have to swap to a Fox Mustang K-member. Probably why I still have shorty headers :hick:.
I should also point out that access to the starter can be a huge pain in be ass with LT's. Overall running unequal length shorties is the simplest and provide easy access to plugs, don't foul most components, and the torque/hp gain is just not that much for all the effort to install LT's. I would have gone this route on my old 302 combo knowing what I know today. The 351W is a whole other beast so that is why I opted for LT's.
I would say that if I was starting from scratch and if the LT's were available I would go that route. On an existing build that had stock Mustang shorties I would drop in the unequal lengths (or equal lengths if I found a good set cheap) and be done with it. If the plan was a power adder or stroker down the road then I would again debate the LT's as they respond better as the mass flow rate through the exhaust increases.
I had long tubes on my '91 Mustang GT T5 car with 0 issues with clearance. I did, however, thermal-wrap my clutch cable and bent the standoff bracket (the one that bolts to the frame) to tuck the cable closer to the framerail and further away from the primary header tubes.
In traded a minty set of headlights for a brand new set of ceramic coated long tubes by BBK, brand new and the box also has gaskets and fasteners. I figured why not? I'll give it a try. I hope to install them in a week. I'll grab pics and do a small write up on the headers and the installaion. I also have a BBK H-Pipe to go on as well. If everything works as it should, I'll pull my BBK shorties and current H-Pipe and shelve them.
I'm currently using a three piece off road H-Pipe (maybe a year old), and really like it. The three piece design allows a bit of flexibility when installing, and I can pull the T-5 without dropping the whole H-Pipe, just the down pipe from the driver side header.
I do understand that swapping a starter may be a bit more time consuming, but, I figured that since I built the car from the ground up, moving a header to swap a starter wasn't that big of a deal. LOL.
I'm going to read up on BBK header gaskets. I actually use felPro factory style gaskets with my current headers. never had an issue. I've used "header" gaskets before and the ones I had literally broke apart.
The BBK gaskets that came with mine lasted about 3k street miles before they burned out. I put REMFLEX gaskets after that.
I believe I'll grab a set of better gaskets.
The headers are on. Actually easy to install. I did have to unbolt the motor mounts from the crossmember and lift the engine about two inches to install them, but no big deal. They seem fine except for one thing, maybe it's normal, maybe not.....the car feels like there's a bit more vibration in the floor. It may be the way it is with long tubes as opposed to the shorty headers. It feels like there's a bit more torque down low. I'm going to do a tune up, then see what she can do.
this is why we mod'd the k member. follow the copper brake line down and note the missing metal on the k member. the gussets on both sides are cut away.
with all the other bracing we did on my son's 87coug, taking these small pieces away is moot i think.
looking under a car with the stock k member, these gussets take up a huge amount of exhaust pipe exit opening.
with the gussets gone, there is so much more room to make anything end up working out.
If the headers are close to the floor they may be hitting it slightly. Probably where the vibration is coming from.
Vinnie,
I hate to say it but you are getting to the point that you need a chip and some dyno time. You might just be surprised at the gains.
+1
I'll be doing the same in the spring of 2018.
I agree. I was just talking about that yesterday. Tune time coming up next year. The car is as far as I really want to go with it as far as drivetrain is concerned. I want to get back to doing some interior work, swapping seats, and carpet, and detailing a bit, but the engine and trans are good enough for me at this point.
As far as touching, I can't find one single place that the exhaust is touching. The search will continue. The vibration is (or what I'm calling a vibration) is hard to explain. Maybe it's a sound vibration? I'll see what else I can find. I'll check the K-Member a bit more. Motor mount bolts, etc.
My guess is NVH in that the exhaust ishiznitting a certain frequency and it is getting something on the car to act like a tuning fork. Does it do this at idle, certain RPM range, or certain speed? When in doubt get a louder stereo.
I cannot hear any vibrations over the exhaust on My Bird or my Coupe but that is just how they sound with an X-pipe, no cats, and good parts.
I wouldnt even waste the money on that. Time to step up to current technology and just go stand alone! My EFI Source plug nplay Microsquirt was the best $450 I spent on my car. I have talked 4 other friends into converting and helped them with the setup and tuning and they all love it.
If you are geared that way. Some of us just don't want to mess with it and we are not constantly messing with the tune. My Couoe has an SCT switch chip and it works for me. When I build the turbo Coyote it will get dyno tuned and that will be it.
If you like messing with the tune and "get" how to do it and have a wide band and are willing to work through the data logging then hell yes it's the way to go.
The exhaust feel is mostly once I hit the gas. Not so much at idle. I checked again today. Nothing touching anywhere. Not too worried about it at this point. I'll adapt, and eventually, never notice it. LOL.
As far as a tune, I'm in no hurry for that at this time. The car is running strong, and idles pretty good. I don't want to add anything else that I can think of to the engine or drivetrain that I can think of, but I do want all I can get out of what I have.