When I bought my Cougar I was made aware of an issue with the A/C where as the magnetic clutch would not always engage (not completely sure about the part terminology). If the A/C didn't engage all I had to do was to open the hood and tap on the fan pulley to the compressor and the A/C would engage and work. This year I'm not able to get the compressor to engage so I'm assuming that the electro magnet has given out in the clutch. I looked in my owners manual and it doesn't show a fuse for the compressor only the blower which is working.
Should I look at finding a full clutch/pulley assembly with the magnetic coil? Any suggestions on where to look?
Thanks Charlie
Would this look right for a replacement?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-C-Compressor-Clutch-Global-4321281-/262401771753?fits=Year%3A1988%7CMake%3AMercury%7CModel%3ACougar&hash=item3d185d48e9:g:NgAAAOSwYudXG1aC&vxp=mtr
It sounds like the clutch went completely bad, but it would probably be a good idea to check your refrigerant level - if that's too low the clutch won't come on, whether it's new or not. If you developed a leak, it could be the clutch would still work but not come on due to low pressure. If your A/C system is properly charged you could also check the connector going to the clutch for proper voltage. Of course, you could also just change the clutch and if it works you're golden, otherwise then you'd look at those other things - how you proceed is up to you.
The part you linked to *looks* to be correct, but I can't guarantee that.
It may just need adjusting. It may have too much air gap between the pulley and the clutch plate.
The gap should be 0.021-0.036 "
Good idea, I have a fill kit with gauge so I'll check it. The compressor was replaced by the original owner and I have the receipt. I'd have to check with the mechanic who did it to see if they converted to 134A or still used R22. It blew nice and cold last year once I would push in on the clutch which I didn't have to do every time. I've never replaced the magnetic clutch before but it looks like it's just one bolt. Has anyone done this?
I used to have to whack mine with my shoe or similar to engage, had over .100 gap... The surfaces were badly worn and scored when I took it apart, replaced with one I had on hand...
What do you think of the one I posted from Ebay, does it look right? I haven't checked to see if the part is available through ford or a parts store but I just assume it isn't.
See above. A few minutes may save you $100.
You can also ohm out the coil to see if it's in spec. Should be 3-4 ohms.
The picture below shows the shims behind clutch hub that can be removed to reduce air gap.
(http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/257993/original/acclutchfs6.jpg)
You can purchase Motorcraft coils from rockauto.com ($45) and aftermarket clutches ($80-$120).
I don't remember been 7-8 years ago, lucky one on spare compressor was same... I know there are a couple different ones...
Did you need a puller to remove the clutch assembly or did removing the nut and snap rings allow you to just slip it off?
You should be able to do all of this without opening the A/C system. The disc has a nut, pull that and it will come off, watch for the shim, it can fall out. There should be only one. Next, there will be a snap ring around the snout of the compressor, remove it. The pulley should now be able to be slid off the compressor, it may be reluctant, if so, use a small hammer to tap it forward. When I say tap, I mean TAP. Hit it like it was made of glass, and was irreplaceable. Tap, turn, repeat. Once the pulley is off, you'll be able to see the field coil, this is your bitch, and it's what you're after. Some coils are held with a snap ring, some are interference fit to the compressor, You'll want to look at it first. If you mistake one for the other, you'll be buying a compressor. Snap ring units are pretty straight forward, but others require the coil to be driven off. Clean the compressor snout with some light emery cloth. If you ding up the coil putting it back on, the pulley will interfere with it and make lots of noise and unhappiness. With the coil on and seated flat, lightly lube the compressor snout and slide on the NEW pulley. Install the snap ring, and select a shim from the bag that comes with the clutch disc. Try to start with the one most like the original one, or use the original one. Install the new disc with the shim you selected, and install the nut. There is a spec for the gap between the disc and pulley, but I don't know it. Look it up and check it with a feeler gauges. Put on a new belt (you've done all this work and spent all this money already, so why not pop for a belt), and fire up the A/C.
Edit: the gap spec is in JeremyB's picture
Why are we ASSuming the magnetic coil is bad?? Low charge will prevent engagement... Easy enough to test with a ohm meter or apply power to it...
I just replaced the clutch disc and idler bearing on mine, worked fine...
We're assuming the coil is bad because when he hits the compressor, he gets engagement.
And my symptom was exactly same because of excessive clearance...
Easy enough to troubleshoot before just throwing parts at it...
But his clearance hasn't changed, only the strength of the coil. The last year or so, I do less A/C work than I used to, but the 8 years before that, my summers were almost solid A/C (almost exclusively Ford). I've seen more failed coils than excessive gaps. Matter-of-fact, the only time I've seen excessive gap is when someone has messed with it previously. 500 internet points says he gets down to the coil and it's melted and swollen.
The clearance changes over time as the clutch surfaces wear slightly every time they engage. The one time I had a buddy's car ('01 XJ) who had similar symptoms, I removed the shims and that fixed the issue. 5+ years later, the clutch is still kickin'.
It may very well be the coil, but 10 minutes to possibly save $50 isn't a bad trade!
Thanks for all the great replies, I didn't expect so much. Unfortunately I work all the time including weekends so it's going to be several days before I get a chance to check this out. I'll start by checking the coolant psi after I find out which coolant I have. Then I'll test for voltage at the plug and go from there. I guess I could try to take out one of the shims before ordering anything, it doesn't sound like it will take very long.
I'll keep you guys posted when I figure this out.
I tested things with my multi meter this past weekend and I seem to be getting proper voltage when the A/C switch is turned on. I went ahead and ordered the NOS clutch assembly from Ebay. I appreciate the step by step directions Foe. I'll let everyone know how it turns out.