Since i work for ROUSH and get a 30% discount on all parts, i decided to Finally start my engine swap plans this year.
So i had performance division order me a 351w stroker short block ( Which is an aftermarket dblock that comes out to be a 427 ci shortblock)
Now DART states that all its aftermarket blocks Accept all standard parts a normal block would and will accept all oer components such as transmissions, and fit in standard mounting locations.
Well heres the 3 main problems ive had so far with no explanation.
1. The engine sits farther back in the engine bay causing my BBK headers to sit right on steering shaft. (had to custom fab one up)
2. Im using the recomended Canton racing oil pan for 351w swaps into a fox body and the oil pan sits on the sway bar.
3. And since the engine sits farther back, I now barely have any end play where my driveshaft goes into trans.
What gives!!!! ugggggggh
You are going to be better off searching for info on this on the Mustang sites or http://www.sbftech.com.
Darren
Well i got it all in and working, but i was just hoping someone on here who also has a DART block would be like, "Oh yeah me too, really sucks." Or something lol It was just really frustrating because if you go on DARTS website, they state all the blocks fit stock locations and parts.
I have a buddy that built a 427 with a dart block and his sat right in fine, no muss,no fuss.... what k member did you use?
are you sure your mounts didn't move somehow? On my old Sport, when I did the 5 speed swap I had to shorten my driveshaft and couldn't figure out why when everyone else says theirs worked just fine. Come to find out my motor mounts had shifted and let the engine move back roughly 2" while the tranny was out. didn't figure it out until I parted the car out and noticed the mounts were pushed backward
did the trans mount not line up either?
I used my stock aod cross member with my t-5.
nope, I had to grind the welds off and slide it all the way back and reweld on mine. I didn't think anything of that though because I looked up under my brothers mustang and his crossmsmber was slid all the way back.
Its the stock k member.
I have a pair of what i believe are 5.0 motor mounts (stock) that consist of the lower bracket that attaches to k member, with a large rubber disc in the middle, and top bracket that even has the tabs on it that run through a metal loop on bottm bracket in case of a mount braking.
This is how the story went. I took the motor mounts apart to clean and paint them. When installing new engine, i noticed the bottom bracket will only fit on a certain side, so no problem so far. Then i went to attach upper bracket to engine and the block hit the plate before the holes could line up, so i had to put spacers between plate and block. Then as i was getting the engine settled in and about to install trans mount, i noticed the trans was about an 1 1/2 inches to far forward.
So naturally i swaped the top plates of mounts around thinking i put them on wrong. Well that worked.....kind of. The trans mount now lined up perfect but other things were off. Such as the slop in my driveshaft was reduced and my air cleaner no longer sits directly in the middle of the hole in the hood.
at least get so.e chuck mounts.
with a stock s.o. and t-5 I've ripped both my motor mounts apart twice. can't imagine if it had any power.
I would put a mustang k member in it and run mustang mounts. Use the tbird a arms and such and just change the k. You could even do a tubular k for a fox body....direct bolt in.
but, its a lot of work. unless your stripping the car out and racing it, the stock member is fine. chucks motor mounts have been in some really high hp cars without issue and cost the same as most mustang mounts.
ahhh....didnt know what chuck mounts were....linky?
chuck w, he is the forum administrator over our classifieds. he also builds them for mercuks and svo's.
http://www.turbochuck.com/motormounts/
I need to pony up for a set before I end up with helicoils in my block for motor mounts.
Personally, I made my stock mounts on my old Sport solid. was extremely easy to do, would be even easier now that I have a welder... some allthread, spacers of your choice, some nuts, and drilling of ONE hole in each mount...
I tried using all thread because of the motor mounts being back ordered. I sheareed the top bracket on one side, it was completely gone on the other. what's really funny, I was on my way home from ordering the mounts.
I think it had to do with my aggressive driving.and.the.275/60/r15's I had out back. had to really beat on it to get a one wheel peel.
I had 215/60-15's and it hooked like a cat on carpet. Twisted the output shaft in the AOD in half which led to the t5 swap. after the t5 swap it saw 4500 RPM launches on a fairly regular basis and it still hooked like mad. Never had any problems out of my mounts or the set that was built for my buddys t-bird that also had a 5.0, but with an AOD and 1 wheel peel, his didn't hook
Torque link from competition engineering will solve any motor mount worries. I love mine. Best thing i ever bought for under a $100!!!
The only thing i can think of is the motor mounts got put together backwards. I know when i dropped my 302 in i set it down (mind you i have an aftermarket kmmber and stang mounts) somthing looked off. Had the motor mounts on wrong sides
Like i said though, my motor mounts have a stud on the botom of the driver side one and the stock k member has a clearance hole for that stud only on the driver side, meaning it cant be switched, and if i swap the top plates around, the trans isnt even close to fitting in the crossmember holes.