I changed over to vacuum brakes somewhere in april of this year. I used a 92 mustang gt brake booster with a 95 gt master cylinder. The pedal has a good feel and vehicle stops are pretty good and balanced.
I replaced the rear passenger side caliper twice. The first one seized up within a couple of days. The second one (currently installed) has been working pretty well.
I rebuilt the driver side caliper. But I had to replace it about 3 weeks ago. Because it started to seize up and one of the pads was worn down to the metal. So I replaced it with a new/refurb caliper. On long drives it smells like burnt brake pads, and if I sprinkle some water on it, it sizzles. I can see that the caliper has insufficient pressure due to the surface rust on the rotor. Rust from when the car sits for a day after it rains.
What may be causing this problem?
Also, I had replaced all pads when I did the conversion.
And the parking brake cables have been removed.
It smells like burnt pad and is hot enough to sizzle water but there's still rust on the rotor from sitting ?
I'm guessing either the pad isn't touching the whole disc (think seized floating pins or whatever it called) or that the caliper is off square to the disc.
have a cheap laser thermometer? when you pull into a parking lot and you can smell breaks, check temps on all 4 rotors and see if one is sticking or both rears.
The inner pad heats up, but the outer(visual one) doesn't have enough pressure.
seized caliper slide pins or improper alignment of brackets.
plug the holes in your caliper, unbolt the caliper itself so its just sitting on the rotor. apply 1/4" air hose to the open bleed screw and see it your caliper bolts line up or if the pins are not sliding.
When I buy reman calipers I always grease the slides and inside of the boots with High Temperature brake lube. The reman. company sells them semi or loaded to bolt on but I always regrease that way if they have a slide stuck, I can make sure it's not when I install them.
Is this a tc rear? Is the parking brake hooked up?
They look to be gone. I'm in agreement that there is an alignment issue with the slide pins and the bracket(s)
Did you read my caliper modification that addresses this issue. More times than not the pins are the issue. Look up my caliper bracket MOD and your issues are over. If one side wears out the pads most likely the piston side that means the caliper is not floating and the pins need my MOD!!
Your pins are FROZEN!!
Here you go my mod
(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/001-136.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/proguns/media/001-136.jpg.html)
(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/012-7.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/proguns/media/012-7.jpg.html)
(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/010-9.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/proguns/media/010-9.jpg.html)
(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/001-137.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/proguns/media/001-137.jpg.html)
(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/009-10.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/proguns/media/009-10.jpg.html)
(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/005-27.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/proguns/media/005-27.jpg.html)
(http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx46/proguns/006-23.jpg) (http://s740.photobucket.com/user/proguns/media/006-23.jpg.html)
That's what my rotor looks like! Inner side is effed up.
I'll work on this issue tomorrow. Thanks dudes!