The window on the passenger side went out a few days back and now the driver's side window is not functioning, and worse... it's all the way down.
Any ideas? I'm hoping it's just a fuse but I don't know which fuse(s) it might be.
If it's one thing I don't like about these cars, it's the power doodads. For this reason.
I checked all the fuses. It's not a fuse.
Do the lights dim when you hit the switch?
The motors can seize, the ignition switch can be bad, the window switch, or a wire can go bad.
See if you have power at the switch.
Does it still make the turning sound when you hit the switch, but sound like it's slipping? If so, the drive gear bushings need replaced. $3 on ebay.
Does it only make a clicking sound when you hit the switch? If so, the motors brushes are most likely bound up with Carbon. Sometimes you can hit the motor body with a hammer and it will knock it back loose, and then it will work again for awhile. Sometimes you have to take the motor apart and clean the brushes. Or, of course, you can always buy a new one for around $60. I would rebuild the stock Ford piece though if you are able, as the aftermarket china junk PW motors parts stores sell now fail quite often. A good rebuild on a stock unit will last you a long time.
Other than those things, it will have to be either in the Switch or the Wiring itself. Not very likely to be the wiring, so I would check the switch first.
When I hit the lights, they work just fine. But my power locks have also stopped working.
When I try to operate the power windows... nothing happens. Absolutely nothing. No whirring, clicking, or whining. No odd noises, well, no noises at all, of any sort. Just, nothing.
I'm guessing electrical.
Verify power at the switch, then work your way backwards from there.
If there's no power, it should be a reletively easy fix.
I took a quick look at the wiring up around the fuse box. They look remarkably good for being a 27 year old car. Everything looks nice & clean and feels tight. Maybe it is the switch. Is there an easy way to get around that so I can at least get my window back up?
jump the pins in the switch
Be careful when jumping pins!!!! Remember the motor reverses the battery and ground to change directions. You will have to power the motor at its connection point. Unless you know the colors at the switch. sounds like the motors are NG. But 2 of them a week apart ??? Possible but unlikely. Stranger things have happened. For a quick test key the ignition and watch the dome light. Hit the window switch and see if the dome light dims a bit. If it does the motors are JAMMED but may still be good. I have in some cases took apart the motors and jumped the internal circuit breakers. They have them inside the motors on several cars. Especially GM&FORD!!
Power locks have 2 separate fuses and relays. One for unlock and lock. Fuses are 8 & 12. I would recommend checking these fuses and circuits for blown fuses or opens in the wires. Their are also 2 relays as posted above Good Luck!!!
:hick::burnout:
Wire colors to motor
Right Door R/Y Y/R
Left Door R & Y
Fuse 14 20A feeds both motors so it seems like you may have 2 troubles.
I checked ALL the fuses earlier this afternoon and they all looked good.
I just came back inside. I took apart the center console and unscrewed the housing for the power window switches and wiggled the wires hoping I'd get lucky.
And I did get lucky.
The driver's side window will function now. The passenger side window still won't function but at least it is stuck closed.
Seems like too much thinking is happening here. K.I.S.S. Pull the door panel, hook a headlamp bulb up to the window motor wiring, and hit the switch. you're looking for the bulb to light exactly the same way both up and down. If not at all, check power at the switch (this may lead you into wiring diagnosis), if only one way or the other replace the switch, if it lights both ways, replace the window motor. Both motors in a week is unusual, but not unheard of. They're possibly the same age, so a double failure would be an example of good quality control (lol, jk) Odds are you're going to find a problem other than the motors. I think I have a schematic of the switch connector if you end up poking around with it. I spent a lot of time with my power windows switch recently, but it was a matter of choice. Tom's right about jumper wires, don't do it without fused jumpers and a diagram. I'd hate to read about you burning your car to the ground.
That will only be a temporary fix. You need to pull the switch apart, and clean the contacts of the corrosion/lint mix that gets in there over time. That is what's causing the issue. The electrical brushes in your PS motor are most likely jammed up with carbon. Pull the motor out, remove and clean the brushes, and then re-install. It should function as good as new, and it costs nothing but your time to do it.
Yeah I know it's not really a fix. I'm just glad I got my window back up.
Like i said you had 2 issues. Most likely the other issue is a motor one. Remember the circuit brakers are in the motors. That is normally the issue as they have a tendency to burn and get dirty. I jump them OUT!!!
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Fuse 14 20A feeds both motors so it seems like you may have 2 troubles
Those window switches go bad a lot. Bad connections and burnt contacts ETC. You can clean the contacts as previously posted. But you also have to make sure then the switch is in it 's activation mode the contacts have enough pressure on them. When the contacts wear thin you need to compensate for some extra travel with he contacts. This is easily dun by slightly bending the contacts or removing some plastic from the area that restricts it's travel. It depends on the design of the switch so you will have to use your judgement. Good Luck
The 85 EVTM says "fuse 14" is a circuit breaker. I believe it is the non-cycling type which means you have to turn the key off to let it cool and reset itself. Also you can't check it by eyeball.
This breaker also powers the high beams for "flash-to-pass". Check if this works.
As Tom said, jumpering power to wires at the window control switch is a bad idea. With the switch in the "at rest" position both of the wires to the window motor are grounded.
There is confusion in the EVTM about the flash to pass power source. If the flash works with the key off, it is powered by breaker 10. If the key has to be on, it is powered by breaker 14.
Switch diagram.
On my 84 the access holes to remove the window motor bolts were not cut out. There were dimples in the metal where the holes have to be drilled. If you have to do this , 3/4" is a good size hole. I used a hole saw.
^All good info here. All I would add is that, you can get away with drilling only small 1/4in holes in the door dimples. If you use a 1/4in extension on your ratchet, and slip the socket on it inside the door. Or, if you hate drilling holes in your car like me, you can remove the entire window regulator by drilling out the rivets. Then you can pull the entire regulator with motor attached out to work on it. Then using a rivet gun or small nuts/bolts to reattach it to the inner door structure.
NO************* jump the motor itself by unhooking it.
that switch is too tricky and you could smoke check / backfeed things the engineers did not think of if they had predicted this situation were happening.