alright.. got my RR in today and new plugs.. but note, this problem was occurring BEFORE the cam swap and tune-up..
i start the car and it idles really rough for a few minutes until it warms up a little.. once it runs smooth, i rev it and it'll either idle rough before picking the RPMs back up and start running smooth again, OR it'll idle rough around 500RPMs and die out in 3 seconds or less.. when idling smooth, the tach reads around 1300-1500.. after it dies, it's a bit of a b*tch to get started again..
any ideas? i did a compression test before putting the new plugs in and the numbers were between 120-125 across the board
alright! NOW i have codes..
23.. TPS voltage
51.. ECT
83.. EGR, fan control circuit or low speed fuel pump relay circuit open
23 - i'll replace the TPS and adjust according
51 - i unplugged it, because it's obviously bad.. replacement already on it's way
83 - i'm guessing it's the EGR or low speed FP relay.. wouldn't the fan not work, even with the ECT unplugged, if the control circuit had issues?
Hey Chris. When the engine is idling, take a close look at the diaphragm in the EGR. Do you see it moving in and out at all, or does it look like it's staying shut?
shi.. i forgot to ask.. is there supposed to be a vacuum line hooked to the EGR? someone put a cap on the nipple.. i'll check it out in the morning, but i didn;t see anything in the haynes manual (let alone a frikkin picture) stating or showing a vacuum line being hooked to it.. but over on nato, pete d said 83 for a TC is fan circuit related
check your fuel pressure and get rid of the EGR . rough idle is probably a low pressure situation. first, with the engine off unplug the vacuum line from the FPR and see if its wet or smells like fuel if it passes that test, with the engine running unplug the vacuum on the FPR and see if the problem changes
graham, i'll do that after my TPS and ECT get here, so i know they're set and good to go.. i don't like chasing 1 problem when there are 2 others lol.. fedex says i should have them by saturday :) .. i'll check for a wet fpr vacuum line, though
set your tps at .97 volts by probing the black wire for ground and the green wire for positive. hope you find your issue
thanks.. should be close.. at least i know it's not the timing after the new cam, because it's ALWAYS been like this lol.. was worse before i cut the old exhaust off.. stupid cat! ;)
The ECU needs the ECT to run. Unplugging it gains you nothing, if the car will even start at that point. If the engine isn't up to operating temp, the ECT won't read properly and can throw a code.
You also didn't say when the codes were present, KOEO or KOER.
Yes. There should be a vacuum hose running to the EGR valve.
oops.. KOEO lol the car runs no different with the ECT unplugged.. it was apparently on it's way out and completely quit on me last week, killing the fan and gauge
that's what i figured.. someone pulled the line and put a cap on the nipple.. seemed a little fishy, but at least i know it's clean.. i cleaned the upper and the EGR valve the first time it spit the follower
Unplugged ECT= maximum resistance(Infinity)= Maximum cold signal to the EEC(-40°)
The EEC is thinking, why are you even trying to start me in this weather?
It is a fuel pump relay issue if you are a 3.0L SHO.
It is a fan control issue if you have an IRCM.
It is an EGR solenoid issue for all others.
oh holy hell does she run terrible now.. only have 1 code.. had 2 that went away.. explanation below.. and they are KOEO, like before
replaced the ECT, then went to change the TPS.. someone already did.. thing looks brand spanking new, so i left it.. i'll screw with adjusting it when i remember to bring my voltmeter home from the shop..
so i started the car.. ran MUCH better at idle (now at 1k-1100, instead of the 13-1500 before).. reved it a couple times to about 3k-3500, all good.. a little stumble when returning to idle, but nothing compared to before (probably just the TPS still needing a little fiddling).. so.. i shut her down and ran a CEL test.. i got 24 (ACT out of test range) and 28 (VAT out of test range).. so i disconnected the battery to clear the codes and see what else may pop up.. 1/2 hour rolls by, i throw the terminal back on and start her up.. she's now idling at 800rpms and i swear to god, if there was a baby in the car, it would have died of shaking baby syndrome.. not funny, but you get the jist of how bad it's shaking now.. i did nothing to it while the battery was unhooked, except making sure all my vacuum lines were hooked up and topped off the radiator.. ran another CEL code test and i get 11, which is system pass..
WTF :wtf:
compression test came out fine again..
cyl #1 - 140-ish (gauge leaked down while i was trying to get a not-so blurry pic)
(http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/395644_10151316347880335_585700334_23283786_1335451042_n.jpg)
cyl #2 - 130-135-ish
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/s720x720/405556_10151316343500335_585700334_23283770_8248645_n.jpg)
cyl #3 - 130-135-ish
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/427007_10151316341080335_585700334_23283760_1777343679_n.jpg)
cyl #4 - 135-140-ish.. again, leaked down while i was trying to get a not-so blurry pic.. really need to reseal the gauge
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/404451_10151316338930335_585700334_23283751_1848160214_n.jpg)
thanks to brian (BJL) once again, for his 2.3T expertise.. before he got here, i set my TPS to .95v and checked my VAM voltage.. the VAM is only pushing .2v KOEO and i forget what it reads KOER, but his was at .8v, idling at 1k-rpms.. i'll have to recheck it, but she's running a million times better.. he messed with the distributor a bit and as we were talking, we came up on the ECT i just replaced.. it didn't even click in my mind, but it's 1 of the garbage plastic 1's.. i unplugged it because it was starting to run hot and the fan wasn't kicking on.. unplugged it and she started running better AND she stopped dying after reving above 3k-rpms.. i still have a slight miss, but she runs like a dream, compared to how she's run up to this point..
going to pull my ECT tomorrow and send it back to RA in exchange for a metal 1.. but going to check into the VAM voltage reading tomorrow.. i tested it KOEO and the voltage climbs smoothly as i push the flapper open.. no flat spots or unusual drops/spikes
all fixed, i hope.. replaced my TFI because after running her for a while yesterday and today, CEL code 14 popped up.. PIP (or distributor related).. the car came with a brand new napa TFI in the console, so it was something i didn't mind changing since it was free.. lol all good now, smooth idle and no dying after a 3k+ rev
One thing: remote-mount TFI. I'll be doing it before or during the engine make-over.
it's on my list of things to look into.. probably not until the next motor, though
posted in wrong area sorry