If anyone can help me I need a wiring diagram for the interior lights. I think the previous owner didnt hook something up exactly right when he swapped the 5 speed in. My interior lights only come on when the key is turned ti either accesory or run position. If some one can help me with a diagram so I have a place to start that would be great!!
Are you saying no lights come on when you open the door?
The only lights that require the key are the rear seat reading lights. As best I can tell from the 88 EVTM.
Thats exactly what Im saying!! Its almost like when the previous owner did the 5 speed swap he messed with some other stuff and accidently hooked the power feed for all of it to a keyed terminal. My keyless entry keypad also will not light up til the key is turned either way, hence the reason Im looking for a diagram. then I can see whats wired to what factory and figure out whats messed up.
My scanner is not hooked up right now. Tomorrow I'll scan some diagrams from the 88 EVTM.
Maybe this is something the previous owner did on purpose. Maybe he didn't want anyone to see him get in the car at night for some reason.
Cool man thanks. The worst part is I know its probably gonna be a simple thing, but I dont want to dive in blindly and make things worse.
in the meantime, the 87evtm should be dead on the same diagrams.
click on the 87 evtm link in my sig which consists of the whole EVTM
Those helped a bit, but some are a bit fuzzy to read connector #'s. The problem is after the power door locks though as they still work as they should, so Im assuming at this point and time its a connector or ground after that point.
Do any lights come on with the headlights thumb wheel, without the key?
The large diagrams are easier to read if you zoom them.
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Nothing comes on without the ignition on. I just went out and double checked
How is it going trouble shooting this problem?
Do you have a test light with a pointy probe?
Fuses have a test point on each end and test lights are great for probing these.
If you probe fuse 8, I suspect you will have voltage on only one side with the key off and voltage on both sides with the key on.
If this is the case it means fuse 8 is blown and a Hot in Run/Accy circuit is tied together with a fuse 8 circuit.
Hot in Run/Accy circuits use fuses 2 6 11 and 14. Isolate which of these circuits is the culprit by pulling the fuses and let us know which one.
Or if you don't have a test light, just pull the fuses and see which one is turning the lights on with the key.
Oh and don't replace the blown fuse 8 until we can pin this down.
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Ya, I haven't even had time to mess with it. I actually changed the fuse before I started this thread and it hasn't blown at all. I do agree with you tom,I think someones changed the wiring, because the power mirrors and locks are on the same fuse. My first check here is gonna be wiring to see if its been changed or rewired. I really need to figure it out though, it would be nice to be able to see when I get in and maybe I can get my keyless entry working to!
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It was that way when I bought it, if I do put a cat on it will be a hi-flow cat.
Thats the plan, right now Im just waiting to not catch frost bite tracking this down. Its about 12*-20* today, and I dont have an easily accessible inside area. The next 2 days are supposed to be warmer, so Ill tear into it here soon.
Well I got some time to mess with it today, here the fuse I though was #8 wasnt. Im a big guy and had a hard time getting far enough underneath. Put the fuse in and everything that is supposed to did, but the radio, power windows, clock also came on. Obviously those were not supposed to come on, so Im trying to look thru the diagrams in the DIY link. This could take a while since its thru photobucket, but if anyone has any other ideas. Let me know.
Well I figured it out, the guy who installed the CD player is an idiot. First off he cut all the stock plugs off, secondly he apparently didnt bother to get a wiring diagram. He had the light green/yellow wire thats supposed to come out of the radio and go to the courtesy lights wired into the keyed radio power. So when I put the fuse back in the power going to the lights powered everything in the radio circiut. Now its all working right, just one question: What is everyone doing with the light green/yellow wire? For the time being Im just going to tape it off, so I dont short circiut.
Thanks agian Tom and softtouch for all your help. Couldnt have figured this out with either of you and the DIY post for the diagrams for the radio.
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Just curious, how does restricting your exhaustgain power? Are you one of those 2 1/2" max for n/a kinda guys too?
It does'nt , however putting a larger exhaust on without any supporting mods will not necessarily increase power .
It won't lose any power, if its tuned right, and will be there when you do do your mods later on.
How is this any different than what I said ?
Now, now guys!!! LOL I know exhaust debates can get heated, since some guys have different experiences. Mines gonna stay as is for now, since the PO put it on new after he did the 5 speed swap and Im no where near needing a bigger exhaust yet. Not to mention I like the sound it has!!
On my topic here, does anyone have any suggestions on what to do with the light green/yellow wire that ran to the radio? Just leave it taped off separately or is there something I should hook it into. Acutally now that I think of it, who ever installed the CD player ran a wire to the fuse box for the constant power for it. I can just wire that into the wire, so I dont have these odd stray wires running underneath the dash!!
It would appear you could use the LG/Y (hot at all times - fuse 8) for the memory circut for the CD player, if it requires one.
Yep it requires one, they ran a wire to a always hot fuse in the fuse box. As soon as I find the time to take the radio back out, Im gonna do it that way. I hate having wires running everywhere under the dash that dont belong there especially when there is an easier way.