and whoever decided it was a good idea to use them was an even bigger idiot. Way to go Ford.:mad:
(http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n567/sarjxxx/2011-12-02152937.jpg)
What you see here is one of the bolts that holds the rear seat and seatbelt to the floor. What you also see is a TORX driver that has been put under so much force to attempt to remove that bolt that it has warped out of shape. And you also see a TORX bolt that has had so much pressure put on it that the driver has slipped out multiple times, and sheared the grooves of the inside of the head.
That being said, does anyone know what level of hell I need to get through in order to get this now round headed bolt out, that out that I couldn't get out with an 18" breaker bar?
Oh, and yes, I've used three different types of penetrating oil, and I've tried a propane torch too.
I don't think I've ever really had an issue with a Torx head unless someone previous screwed it up with cheap tools or by not holding the bit flush.
Had the same issue here, of course we get all the salt, when I needed to get the seat back out. I crawled under the car and sprayed it from the back side to no avail. Finally took a pair of snips and cut the tab off the seat to get the back out, with it out I put a chisel on the head of the bolt cracked it a couple times with a hammer and it came right out. Good luck
LOL, Could try one of those craftsmen "easy out" socket things that bite into studs. Ya torx has to be exact size or spins the head of the torx socket off, and if any one before you messed with it the head is screwed up lol. Another option is to grind a line across it and try using something like a screw driver.
Everyone saw the rust on my car..... heated the underside with a torch, and they came right out.... believe it or not.... lol
Propane won't do it..
hammer and chisel, makes sure you go the right way ;)
Tor
Torx are magnificent!!!!! Have you tried tearing a car apart with philips or flat head screws??? Nightmare! Like everyone has said torx has to be the right size otherwise you ruin it. Torx+ are even better, the flatter, and fatter points make it so much easier for leverage. I have a set of MAC Tools torx and torx+ sockets and love them. Security torx are the only pain.
A propane torch won't do jack to that quality of metal, you'll spend hours trying to get it to hold that heat. You need an Oxy/Acetylene,Natural Gas, or blow torch to get that baby hot and it'll back right out with vice grips if absolutely needed.
I agree..lotta heat!
And graham, you need to go the LEFT way lmao ;)
you nailed it right there, the bolts he is talking about needs that stuff melted away so the bolt comes out, otherwise your really going to be at a disadvantage.
never had much trouble with torx,,, APEX tips yes but torx, no.
I prefer my brake caliper bolts to be allen though,, now those can be a pain if you dont lube em before you put them back in.
All the Torx bolts on the Sport are great. Never had an issue. Oklahoma climate wins !!!
Get a t-55 or t-60 and hammer it in. The second it feels like its slipping, stop and hammer it back in.
I know those bolts are a beeotch to get out. Last time I needed a seat belt out at the junk yard, I asked the yard guy to get it for me. He used a small electric impact gun and it zipped them right out.
I have one of those hitachi li-ion electric impact guns at work. I love it. More balls than you would think...
Now that sounds like a plan.
If the above plan does not work.... or it may come to some combination of the two lol
I've got one too but I don't actually have a impact wrench, just a imact screwgun. Its great for work but 60 in/lbs of torque is not nearly enough for this application. Its frikken sweet for removing bolts with a lot of thread though, like intake bolts and whatnot.
I just don't see the appeal. phillips head screws, and hex head bolts. I just don't see the need for anything else. Its not like there was some special application where it was necessary to use these where the did... I don't get it. And I did use the right size driver. I've ruined (2) TWO different drivers on this bolt. all the other ones I managed to remove but this one just will not budge.
It would be nice if I owned or had access to one of those but alas I do not. Which is why I bought a $25 propane torch.
you can buy a small oxy/acetylene torch set (tanks are the same size as the propane torch kits).. i have a couple and they work great.. i've actually cut some thin steel with mine
MAP gas will work. thats what I use instead of propane
NO!! the right way.. if you go the wrong way it just wont work!!
I agree, you need at least MAP gas on the underside. Once it slips out and strips when your twisting your kinda screwed. I went through this on my wifes suburban brake caliper bolt, I was eventually able to get it by using a clamp to force the wrench and bolt together and hit it with a deadblow hammer after heating it. You cant get a clamp or anything in your case though.
I agree, whoever invented TORX head bolts needs to be shot. JK
If it wasn't so close to the bracket, you could use a small pipe wrench to grip the outside of it. Looks like it twisted the bit also, might try to find a straight quality hardened steel bit and hammer it in as suggested. Good Luck.
Map gas all the way!! Heat it from the bottom and it'll come right out.
Or
It's still available here in Indiana Tom
same here, i saw it when i went to the parts store yesterday to pick up tail light bulbs and sockets
Yes i
If I had a nickel for every torx fastener I have cussed out.... well, I'd have my car done by now, lol
good hammer shots released the torx...