i just got a 88 tbird from down south and its dose not want to start up on the first turn like my other car i have. it takes like 6 or 7 trys to get it started. i replaced the iac and it still dose it.
Silly question but does the gas guage work properly? Is there enough gas in the tank? You don't state whether or not you let it run for a while or not so...
If you let the fuel pump prime, does it make any difference?
start with the timing and then follow up with pulling the codes using a paperclip and your check engine light.
from there , let us know. Basially, you want to see nice blue spark at the plug so pull off any random plug wire from the spark plug and stick in some other plug you got lying around. Let the plug threads touch ground.
Next, remove the red slip on boot on the starter relay. have you a jumper (@10awg) wire ready to jump bat pos to the S terminal where the red slip on boot was hooked. This will remote crank the engine but have your key on so you see spark. Your engine will not start as long as the little red wire is not hooked up to the starter relay.
tell us how fast the engine cranks, that will tell us a lot about the battery.
Also, pop the tops off the battery and if fluids are low,, add only distilled water or if you can , the real stuff that can be purchased locally (electrolyte). If the fluids are low and the battery isnt older than a couple years, then your alternator may be at fault as well.
today it started right up when i went out to drive it and it drove fine, its just when its cold out side i think, and its like 46 so? i might be something with the timeing so ill have to take it to my grandfathers house and have him look at it for me lol.
and ya the gas gage works one time it jumped up to like 17gl when their was just 3 in it. then i went right back down
Sounds like a battery that can't take the cold or just has to little cold cranking amps.
+1. What CCA Does your battery have?
its 650, i think its to low because my other birds bat. has like 750 or higher
Down south batteries are differant than up north batteries.
Down south; high heat tolerance.
Up north; CCA
the barttey could have a thing to do with it but it will start but i have to try afew times. the last 2 day ive been driving it and its been starting on the first turn of the key or the 2 turn.
I had the same problem with the 86 when we first got it. It was a mess really.
The throttle positions sensor (TPS) was bad causing intermittent starting. One time it would be good and another time it would take a few trys.
Also had a bad TFI module. (Thin film Ignition module) Same symptoms as the TPS with the additional problem of intermittent stalling. If you remember Ford recalled a couple of million cars with this issue.
ok ill have to try them, i dont know if this help or not but when it starts and u push on the gas and let up it stalls out or almost stalls out.
Codes?
i dont have a code reader
Hey Scott, just out of curiosity; I noticed you said the car won't start with the "s" terminal disconnected from that slide on connection (even with 12v going to "s")? I've never tried it, but why is that? What else is connected to that wire and how can it tell if the wire is connected to the solenoid or not, being that it's only one wire I'm not sure I understand how the car knows the difference? Isn't this wire only to trip the solenoid?
oh, and btw tbirdsps, I believe TFI actually stands for THICK Film Ignition. But whatever, thick, thin, I don't know what it means!
im going to try the tps then the tfi. the tps is cheaper so thats the one i will fix first lol
hellsing73
DOOD!! your killing me!
you dont need a code reader, like i said, you only need a paper clip.
If you wanna get fancy, get one of those buzzers or beepers from some old toy thats broken or a real 12 buzzer like whats in your car.
Use the buzzer in substitute for the test light and you will have an audible code reader.
So,, basic parts to pull codes......paper clip
fancy parts to pull codes, paper clip and test light or dc buzzer.
even more fancy would be a "code reader" which is a waste of money.
http://www.therangerstation.com
or my diy link has all that and codes.
Like i said, you need to go through that 3.8L with a fine tooth comb. stalling and such could be clogged injector screens or carbon buildup on the base of the CFI. Shot gun it if you want though,, its up to you.
Booksix
removing the red boot off the starter solenoid removes the 12 power delivery from the ign sw to the relay or winding side of the starter "relay". the ground of the coil or winding is obtained by the two screws holding it to the side of the engine bay. Un hook it and use a on/off switch (ie-remote start sw) from bat pos to "S" terminal and you can crank the engine over if the switch is held on. Good for doing compression testing by yourself or whatever.
its not the y 3.8l its the 5.0l