There may or may not be another thread that has this info in it, but I have been searching like crazy and can't find the answers to the questions that I have....ok, the skinny, I assume that this motor is stock, what can I do to improve it without dropping serious money into it? I don't wanna race it, just drive it, but right now it is a dog. VERY slow acceleration from a stop, but once it gets up to around 45-55 MPH the turbo spools up very nicely. On initial startup, it will run for a few seconds, then die. repeat this step and it will smooth out and run like normal.(although I don't really know what normal is) I have been reading the chiltons manual that came with it and have decided it is either some kinda of vacuum leak or something with the EGR not working properly. I know nothing about this kind of garbage really, only how to rip that off. But I want it to run good and get good mileage. So, without loosing gas mileage, what can I do to improve and fix that starting problem and the low power on takeoff?
Thanks to all that can help me. The 2.3t is a whole new animal to me.:hick:
brian
*edit* Oh yeah, and from what I can tell it has no intercooler either. Doesn't look like it ever had one. Either that or I don't know where it is. I am sure this would help overall performance?
alright. first off, as far as acceleration from a stop... it's an auto car. they're horrible for that. it won't get any better till you're making some serious power. you can turn up the boost a bit with a boost control valve. that'll help a lot in the whole rpm range. search turbo ford for a "gillis valve". that'll be a good initial mod. if you've got a vacuum leak, it needs to be fixed. your car won't be making the power that it can with a leak. boost will take the path of least resistance and a leak would be it. next would be exhaust... the factory exhaust on 2.3t cars sucks. start with a k&n cone and the gillis valve and you'll be much happier.... temporarily. lol.
So my acceleration from a stop will always suck?! IT WON"T EVEN SPIN THE TIRES ON DIRT!
it will if you brake boost. my last turbo coupe was an 85 auto and it would NEVER spin the tires. then again, it was bone stock. once you get the power levels up a bit, she'll scoot from a stop. ford limited the boost on the auto cars for the sole purpose of longevity of the a4ld transmission. what they don't tell you is that you can easily put a LOT more power through it without hurting it.... as long as you keep it cool. for anyone with an auto car, i suggest running an efficient tranny cooler. you'll thank me for it, trust me.
In other words, time for T-5 swap!!!
It has a trans cooler on it already. Looks like it came on it stock. I tried brake boosting it, but didn't want to push anything because I don't "know" the car yet. So you haven't commented on the no intercooler yet......
Do a tune-up and run codes before you go any further. That will most likely solve your start problem.
On the exhaust, get a real one. For most turbofords a single 3" is plenty. Might be a little much for your power goals though. At the very least a 3" DP and cat followed by a 2-1/2" single cat back should do you fine and not "cost" you any power at your level. Be sure to get a straight-through ler, no chambered ones. To help spool, replace the stock E3 exhaust manifold with one of the later E6's. You can sometimes even find one that has been ported. Obviously there are aftermarket options, but no need for them at your goals.
Upping the boost to about 15# will help with power w/o streesing the trans too much. If you're concerned, add an auxillary cooler. I swapped a T5 into mine because I hate autos. You have the smaller injectors, so you can't go too far.
An open cone filter into the hot engine was will NOT help you at all. Either find a way to route it into the fender (I ran mine there) or box it off from the rest of the engine bay. Otherwise just run a K&N in the stock airbox.
There was no intercooler stock.
There are also the options of adding an IC and upgrading to the later ECUs and larger air meters.
I have a big vam if you become interested in going that route that chuck mentioned
No sense in complicating the issue at this point. He needs to figure out what to do with what he has first ;)
I also say to brake boost that cat on take off. I kinda have to feather the clutch in my turbo coupe to get it to really take off quick. As for the manual boost controller don't buy one when you can build one. Look here http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=59089. I'd tell you to do a good tune up using NGK, Autolite, or Motorcraft plugs. Maybe throw in a new set of wires good ones. Maybe takeoff the IAC and clean that out really good. Also not sure what it is worth but some of the XR4TI's and such came with a intercooled pipe. Basiclly the pipe you have on there now with some heat sinks welded on. If anything get a front mount intercooler. The top mount is kinda a heater when you are going slow.
chuck went into a bit more detail then i did, but what he said pretty much backs up what i said. i do agree with him that you should run codes first and get all your "issues" squared away first. start with a good running motor before you mod it.
as for the parts that he recommended, he's right on the money. stinger performance has a real nice exhaust for our cars that includes a 3" down elbow and pipe, along with the full 3" system. stay away from ANY chambered ler... they're way too restrictive. for the exhaust manifold, let me know if you want a ported e6, i've got 3 of them. as for the injectors, i just sold my last spare set of brown tops (35#'rs that cam stock in the 87-88 turbocoupes.). they can usually be had for less then $100. the la3 computer coupled with the 35# injectors and a big vam, will be a nice upgrade a little later on.
as far as intercooler, only the 87-88 turbocoupes and the svo mustangs came with the intercooler. if it weren't for the fact that your compressor housing has the bolt on it, you could easily just bolt a stock turbocoupe intercooler on there, but being that it does, you'd either have to swap turbos, compressor housings, or cut the off to use an intercooler.
The 2.3Ts I've owned that had EVERYTHING verified as OK and still died on cold start, needed the injectors cleaned... Fixed two that had this problem after the weak fuel pump was replaced(Yours is pulling OK at higher RPM so I don't suspect the pump)...
For the turbo lag, this was the bitch of every test I've ever seen on the early cars with the T3... Everyone will scream, but IF you want a nice driver and aren't interested in all out HP, swap to a smaller unit... That's Ford's reasoning on the '87-'88 which have almost no lag... The intercooler doesn't do a thing for low speed performance, just cools the charge so higher boost levels can be used... The ones on the '87-'88 probably add heat when the car is puttering around in traffic... Only above 40mph can I see it as a benefit...
Also on a side note the Manual Boost Controller would help with some of getting boost a little quicker. With the MBC it has to move the ball bearing inside before any boost reaches the waste gate actuator.That makes the actuator say full seated until BAM it slams open the ball and reaches the actuator. That makes for peak boost quicker. Not much but everything helps.
:shoothead
ok, so tonight I will try and find out the starting problem. And, unfortunately, I am not too familiar with all this IAC and what not. But, as Chuck stated, get it running, and I will go from there. How do I do that code check with this car? Just in case after the tune up it still has the problem. And also, keeping that catalytic converter is a must? It is huge and takes up alot of room right behind the trans. Or does the 3" come with a different one? I hate asking such obvious questions for you guys but I know jack and shiznit about 4 cylinders. Thanks to all that gave advice. I'll PM you Turboranger about that e-6 when I get home from work. Thanks again!
brian
As far as the cat goes, whats your local emissions like? If you need to have it you can gut it, or buy a high flow cat.
if your state does emissions testing, i'd keep the cat. if not, it's not a needed part. do away with it. the stinger kit doesn't come with one.
http://www.stinger-performance.com/headerparts.html
You can buy a nice compact hi-flow cat. It was just mentioned as I'm not sure what your local emissions testing (if any) is.
As far as the codes go, you can buy a cheap scanner from the parts place (for Ford EEC4 systems) for $30, or you can use a test light and count flashes. It's not hard to do.
Don't waste money on fancy spark plugs, Autolite 764's will work fine.
yes and no. will they work? yes. will they work well? no, they're on the bottom of the barrel for spark plugs. if you have a shop that deals in motorcraft, use that. mc pugs, plug wires, and cap/rotor.
Well buddy the IAC= Idle Air Control motor. Right on the throttle body. Look like a metal can with a 2 wire plug on it. Take that off and spray it out with carb cleaner if you can let it soak over night the flush it out one last time then reinstall it. As for plugs I like the NGK's 2238's I have reall good luck with any thing I put NGK's into. But I do like those Autolite also. They are my 2nd choice for the 2.3T's When chuck says don't go fancy he means use only copper plugs those platinums and iridiums aren't good in a boost app. Most guys over at turbo ford tell you go motorcraft everything. They make good stuff but sometimes it is pricey!
Also for the cat. Get rid of the factory unit and have an exhust shop reroute the exhust without all those 90* bends it has going into and out of the cat. I did that to my 84 and I shure noticed that it builds boost quicker. That was just crossing it over under the drive shaft not 90* then under the tranny then 90* so it goes to the back.Mine is a much better angle than those factory 90*'s
Autolite 764's work just fine...never had an issue.
i have. i've had blowout more then i care to talk about from using autolite plugs. switched over to motorcraft and i was fine. granted, i wasn't at stock boost levels then.
When Zach and I did the large VAM and ECU conversion on his car, it both Idled better and ran stronger. Pretty inexpensive upgrade to perform to the car for the gain it provides..
Starting point
1
get it running right
i added all the small bolt-on's to my 88 tc, i have the smaller turbo like they stated, so it spools up quick, but adding the exhaust like all these wonderful guys mentioned will unleash some of the beast, plus a boost controller and the k&n helps too
with my mods i'm still getting around 21-23 mpg with the a/c on with my city.suburb driving.
my 2.3t is suffering from a lower end knock in the engine and still running strong. tuned correctly the engine will go on and on.
get it tuned up good, clean the injectors. get a motorcraft PCV valve. run premium. change your oil regularly and there will be no issues.
OK, here is the skinny, the tune up solved my starting problem. I changed the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Let it sit for a couple of hours(more like 5) and it fired right up and didn't sputter a bit. The wires were brittle as hell and broke even though I used a plug wire puller. The plugs themselves were horrific. Carbon build up like a Mo Fo. Cap and rotor weren't terrible, but I wanted to eliminate tune up all together. I tested the coil and it is in spec, but I will change it out anyways. There is still a high idle problem after the engine gets to running at normal temperatures. At or around 2000 RPMS. Is this normal? Also I peaked inside and took a look at the top of the pistons and they have an oil sludge on them, so me thinks the rings are pretty shot unless this is something that happens to this motor when it gets 157xxx miles on it. Tomorrow the trans is going to be drained and the gasket replaced as it all over the place at normal operating temp. Also the fuel filter and the pcv valve replacement. The exhaust also has alot of leaks in it and I am sure that doesn't help either.
Another question is can I just run the exhaust right out the back on the passenger side? I have only crawled under there one time to see what was leaking and didn't happens to look to see if it would fit or not. Colorado has dropped their emissions laws and michigan could give a shiznit. Some of the cars I see driving around there are mostly mosquito killing, blue smoke blowing factories. So that cat is going as long as it won't play fowl games with the rest of the car. Cheaper for me.
I have also seen this IAC thing on the top of the motor. I have a 4 day weekend this week and will pull the injectors, that, egr valve, and whatever else I see to find out how it works and makes sure all is in good working order. While I am at it, is there anything else I should do at that point in tear down? Replace head gasket? Something to look for that happens on high mileage 2.3's?
Oh yeah, the motor mounts and trans mount are totally garbage. I can move the motor side to side with little or no effort. Its rediculous how people could give a about cars until they break, then curse the car for breaking. As soon as my wife started it I could plainly see there was a problem with the mounts. Oh well, I ain't complaining. One thing at a time.
Sorry it took so long to post something up, a friend of mine is leaving and I won't see him again for a while. Had to visit.
Let the posts begin!
brian
Took some pics of the plugs and wires too. Enjoy.
looks like it needed a tune up bad
You should take another peak in there at the cylinder walls. I've pull apart 4 100,000+ miles 2.3t's and all but one had the hone marks still in the walls. The low compression I guess is good on wear.
Also for the Exhaust I've heard that the problem in these older cars is that the inline fuel pumps is in the way along with plastic fuel lines. I want mine to dump in front of the passenger rear tire. I've thought about swaping the pump to the drivers side. Another thing that seems to get over looked on high mileage T/c is the orange wire that bolts up to the side of the turbo inlet housing. Has something to do with the O2 sensor ground. I also added two 4ga ground wires from the motor to the chassis. That helped everything electrical. That doesn't mention what the 3g alt swap does. Drop the factory PIG starter and get you a 95 ranger 2.3-2.5 starter. Just a little wire and now you have a light mini starter that takes less power to run. As for the motor mounts Chuck W is the one that can hook you up. Another thing is to head over to turboford and Search Search. Oh yeah a lot seem to like to disconnect the Knock Sensor.
To say the least. I don't know how some people live with themselves.
So your saying that replacing the rings would be a reliable fix for the oil thing? It doesn't smoke like its burning oil so there may be some bearing to this. Also I have seen this ground wire, but all I can tell you is that it is there. I did the starter upgrade on the bird, and was quite impressed. Sounds like a good mod for later. and"Knock sensor"? you have got to be kidding me. I should never have thrown the birds 2.3t away. I might actually know what you guys are talking about.
brian
I think I spy a package for one of those py Deutsch PCV valves....you just wasted your money if so..they don't work for on a turbo motor. You NEED the Motorcraft one at the very least (P/N-EV127A). Before you pay for it, try and blow through the small end. You should not be able to. If it leaks AT ALL you don't want it. What happenes is that under boost you will pressurize the crankcase and oil will ooze all over the place.
The oil issue is normal for a car that age with what is probably a non-maintained PCV system. Don't think the rings will be an issue. At worst I imagine the valve stem seals are shot. Pretty common.
Unless you convert to a single in-tank fuel pump set-up, it is best to route the exhaust out the driver side.
Clean the IAC and then cruise over to turbotbird.com (the NATO site) and check out the Idle Adjustment procedure under the "Tech Articles" section. That will help you make sure the idle is set properly. 2000 rpms is too high.
Its a purolator pcv. But I will do as you say and check the old. If its junk I will get a motorcraft one.
The high idle is sporatic. After driving for any amount of time and put it in park or neutral, it will idle at 2000, then by itself idle down to around 1000 rpms. Kind of a back and forth thing. Hopefully this weekend when I tear the intake and all that off, check out that IAC and all the other goodies, I can figure out what is causing it. When I pick up the trans filter kit today I am gonna get that code reader also. Where do I hook that up to anyways?
Brian
Purolator PCV = Junk
No need to tear the intake off to clean the IAC...
(PS- I emailed you pics of that wheel)
Varying high idle usually caused by bad or incorrect setting of the TPS...
Got them, PM'd you back.
I'm taking it off to clean the intake itself, change alot of the vacuum hoses, and also pull the injectors out and either change or clean them. There is a junkyard nearby with a TON of mustang 4 bangers. I don't know if they had any different ones but it will keep me busy for a bit.
Got the turbotbird instructions for adjusting the tps. That site is great! everything and anything is on there for these things. You gotta love the internet!
brian
The NA cars will not have the proper injectors. There were only two types used stock on the 2.3T's, the 30# green-tops and the 35# brown-tops. Anything 83-early 85 used the green and 85.5 and later used the brown. With your ECU, the only ones that will work will be the green.
Alrighty, I am now balls deep in this car. I pulled the distributor and I am replacing the ignition module, and the pick-up. Also I am pulling the injectors and everything that goes with it.
Soooo, I pulled the egr valve off and both holes are plugged up with ola. I don't know if I asked this before or not, but do I NEED the EGR valve? Or does it play a role with that turbo? This one is I am sure shot, but a new one is more money than I want to spend. I know I said I wanted good gas mileage, but I am willing to sacrifice here and there. If I need it, I need it, but if not, can I run without it, and what do I need to plug to do so? Besides the manifold run off for it.
thanks
brian
Well there is only one port on the 2.3T EGR valve. The other may just look like a port due to the carbon on it.
There is really nothing to gain by taking it off, if you can clean the carbon out of it and the diaphram will hold when vacuum is applied, then leave it on. While is does nothing to affect performance, it does come into play during cruise and could affect your milage a touch without it. You "may" pick up some pinging if you remove it as well. With the earlier ECU you may not notice any difference one way or the other.
If it's fully clogged, it's pretty much disabled at the moment, but way to disable it w/o having to remove/plug the line to the manifold is just to sandwich a thin piece of metal between the intake and the valve.
Well, here is the pics of the injectors and the egr. If I gain nothing from removing it, then I will just leave it on after I clean the hell out of it. The intake is just as bad. Is there anything I need to know about the injectors? Safe way to clean them or just clean em?
:bowdown: By the way, kudos go out to all that have these engines, so far my big mits are having a HELL of a time getting around the garbage that is on this motor. :punchballs:
Oh, should I take the head off or just leave it. I don't believe the gasket is leaking or anything but I really don't want to do this again. I think if I do, the motor will come out.
humm,, and my DIY link down on my sig could have saved you time.
heres my wrtie up..............
tps test throttle position sensor
1 location-- vertical mounted on pass side of CFI with org/blk/grn wires.
Probe the green wire with positive lead of a meter and ground out
the black lead of your meter.
2 turn ign sw on ,, no start
3 the voltage reading on your meter should be around .5-.9 vdc.
4 operate the throttle linkage very very very slowly and note increase in voltage. Your increase should be smooth with no jumping and it should top out at around 4.6 vdc.
notes..
It is best to use an buttstuffog (needle type) meter when doing this step because it will detect flat or open spots on the variable resiseter (tps) better than the digital types.
you can bench test the tps buy hooking up to the green and black then black to org and measuring resistance and the two readings should match. The green wire is the center tap of the variable resistor. The resistance reading will be proportional to what you see in dc volts.
if you find your low end voltage is at or above one volt,, use a chainsaw file to file out the mounting holes so that you can mount and adjust the tps CCw to achieve the "less than a volt" goal.
when installing the tps,, lay it in place but slightly clockwise,, seat the tps then rotate it ccw to line up the mounting screws. There is a little pin up in the likage that will put your tps in a bind if you dont do this correctly. You cant just lay it on and bolt it down any old way.
Thanks! I am gonna adjust that when I put it all back together.
Use some seafoam on that carbon it should knock it right out. Either that or carb cleaner.
for the love of God! Is it really this hard to get top dead center or am I crazy?!??! I got the car on top dead center after I pulled the dizzy out. The car just won't start. It tries to, but doesn't turn over all the way to run. I am getting spark, and fuel. Everything is hooked up right. all vacuum lines are on and is kosher. I need help! Is there something I am missing? I pulled everything on the intake side off. Cleaned all, and no start. HELP! Also I changed the pick up in the distributor, and the ignition module on the side. All done correctly. didn't take the wires off as I changed them before. I must have missed something.
Advance the timing a little...sometimes they are a bear to start if the timing is retarded a bit.
alright, i just checked the timing on the cam and it is good. when trying to start however, #1 sparks but not on tdc. switched it 180 and still does not fire on tdc. what did I do?
#1 isn't supposed to spark at TDC...like I said advance it a bit (like 10* BTDC)...
Chuck, I am going to come and see you and buy you a beer....if you drink. Or smoke a cig with you.....if you smoke. So it needed advanced, and now it runs. good actually, good enough for me to see that the exhaust manifold has a terrible leak in the front. So now I am tearing that off and tomorrow I will replace that gasket. Yay. Chuck, your still da man. I'm serious about the beer and smoke or whatever, big fat T-bone if you want.
Glad you got it running.
These engines can be finicky about the base timing. What's funny is you can swap the #2 and #3 plug wires and the car will start and run (not well, but it will start), but if you get the base timing too retarded,. it won't start at all.
Well, here is what the intake side looks like after I did the work, new gaskets, cleaned intake and replaced the vacuum lines, all like 4 of them. It may not look any different, but believe me, it does. The other is obviously the manifold gasket blown to hell. The bolts weren't even tight. Little or no effort and they came right loose. Also eliminated the ac as it didn't work anyways. New gasket tomorrow, catalytic converter cut off, and fuel filter. Then all should be good. It starts great and idles really good.(adjusted the TPS). Then we shall see how it runs.
Here is a before, not the greatest angle, but everything dirty, is now clean.
brian
I broke the A4LD in the '87 4 hours after I got my license by power braking it... which is why turboranger's '87 now has a WC T-5! lol
OK, so I changed all the intake gaskets and the manifold gasket, and it ran good. Only for a while. The car still has power issues. It will fart and sputter putting any kind of load on it, it still has to be started two or three times when it is cold, and just sit there and let it run until it smooths out. Tonight I am going to change the fuel filter and cut off the catalytic converter. I am oping that is plugged and will fix some of the problems. Is there anything else that can make this car do that? It doesn't smoke out the exhaust, it isn't leaking anywhere under the hood(vacuum, or exhaust). I am starting to get frustrated. Power 50mph and up it runs fine, anything below that and forget it. I am pretty sure that my engine light doesn't work as it is running like . Please help!
brian
There is no CEL on the early cars. The "ENGINE" light is the warning light for the coolant temp and oil pressure.
Did you happen to run codes yet? What did you set the base timing to? Did you set it SPOUT out?
Yeah I had advanced hook up there little high tech gadget up to it and of course, nothing. As for the timing, I marked the distributor before I pulled it so it is in the same spot it was when I pulled it. And, I don't know what spout out means unfortunately. Care to elaborate?
Well the SPOUT may be the issue with power problem. From the ignition module on the dist, follow the yellow wire out from it and on the 84 it should come to a connector. You need to disconnect that before you set the base timing. If you set the timing with it in, it will be severely retarded.
-Pull SPOUT
-Start engine
-Time with timing light to 10-12* BTDC
-Turn off engine
-Reconnect SPOUT
-Tighten dist hold down bolt
Ok, Chuck, this is what you have been waiting for....
I went back to advanced and asked if they could hook up the code reader again. Same thing. No Codes, wouldn't even register that it was hooked up. So I read the directions and you have to hook up to the battery to get power from the computer! IDIOTS! So here are the codes it pooped out:
Code 12: RPM unable to reach upper test limit
Code 25: Knock sensor input out of test range
Code 42: No EGO/HEGO switching detected, system rich
Code 76: Insufficient VAF output change during test
Now, what do I do with this info? Is the air flow thing bad? Bad o2 sensor? I am happy I have something to go off of, but on the other hand, don't want to just replace junk until I get it right.
I will check the timing tomorrow and see what it is at. Keep in mind that I am 6000+ feet about sea level. Would it still be the same?
I love computers....
brian
*edit* I see the yellow wire, this should not be a problem. Tomorrow will adjust.
The O2 sensor is easy. It's probably as old as everything else.
Check the air meter door for smooth and free movement. It could be gummed up with and not opening/moving like it should.
I just was looking at that flap thing and saw that there was oil inside of it and the whose going to the turbo. Is this normal? It isn't alot but it is there. The flap moves pretty freely but I will clean it tomorrow too. Wife is starting to get sick of me being in the garage. I need to hurry this up.
OK, so on lunch I replaced the o2 sensor, and looked at the timing. Unplugged, it was at 8* atdc. Soooo, I put it at 10* and at an idle it seems like it is running alot smoother. Now do I need to reset the computer or will it do that by itself?
I am still going to look at the air flow sensor and see if it is filthy or not, but right now I want to eat before I go back to work.
Brian
You might disconnect the battery tonight. It couldn't hurt.
Sounds like the timing was retarded about 18*...that would cause the power issue....
Boy I am sorry I didn't check that sooner. I thought because I marked it where it was before I pulled it, I would be fine. Of course, that was under the assumption that it was correct. I will see how it runs on the way back to work. Will post up results.
brian
Well, after a tune up, new intake gaskets and cleaning, ADVANCED the timing, new o2 sensor, removing the catalytic converter, and replacing the manifold gasket, THAT CAR REALLY SCOOTS! I would have never guessed so much power could be in a little 4 banger. I am impressed. The car is running absolutely fantastic.
I would like to thank everyone who gave advice and helped with this little ordeal.
I was beginning to think I bought a piece of shiznit for a little bit there. I really do love that turbo spooling up. Love it.
thanks again
brian
How do I adjust the boost in this thing?
Stock you don't. The early non-SVO cars had a fixed boost set-up from the factory.
An "easy" way is to replace the fitting on the turbo compressor housing (the one with the hose that runs to the wastegate actuator), with one of the 2-port fittings from a BCS-equipped(Boost Control Solenid) car. The extra port on that fitting is a bleed orifice and reduces the signal to the WGA, thus it opens later. I just connect the extra port to a fitting on the turbo inlet and leave it at that. That's usually good for 15-16# boost with little fuss.
Another way is to get a Manual Boost Controller, such as a Gillis. It is a spring-ball type that you put in the signal line between the turbo compressor and the WGA. The spring holds the ball against the seat until a certain boost pressure is reached and then sends the boost signal to the WGA. The benefit of this is that the the WGA will not see boost until the set level is reached. With a bleed type (as explained before) the WGA will start seeing boost signal sooner and begin to open the WGA flapper (to start releasing boost). Driveability and boost response is improved with the spring-ball type, but the other works well on the street too. I just ran the bleed type I mentioned in my turbo Ranger.
I might have an extra one of those 2-port fittings.
You don't want to go too high on boost with the stock fuel system and the smaller injectors. You'll be pushing the limits.
Well, to tell the truth, I really shouldn't increase the boost at all. The engine has some lifter issues and who knows what other internal problems. I was only curious as to how one went about doing it. The exhaust manifold is developing a crack in the middle of it too. Well, as soon as the T-bird sells, I can change a few things on it, and get it ready to be refurbished.
About that fitting, could a hole be drilled in it and have a bolt or something put in it to regulate boost pressure? I just put a bigger turbo on a friends 5.9L cummins and the turbo had that fitting with an "adjustable" alan screw. Would this work for ours?
Brian
You can drill holes in the line that goes to the wastegate to increase boost. Wouldn't boost much beyond 18 if I were you.
Don't worry about doing anything to that fitting. You're not going to gain anything by drilling a hole and putting a bolt in there.
That fitting, is it just something I can make, or something special? I put a boost gauge in and max boost is 10-11 psi. If it's something I can't make, I am interested in getting that and the steering wheel. thanks
brian
or would it just be better all around to get one of those gillis things.
The fitting has a "calibrated" bleed orifice in it. Like I said, I probably have an extra, I'll just toss it in with the wheel.
As far as the Gillis goes, I have seen and purchased/used one of the el cheapos off ebay and it worked fine for me. I think I picked up one for $10-15 and used it on the XR4 when I had it. Something adjustable would be good juct because you are kind of limited at the moment by your fuel system.
So my fan quit working when I put my mechanical gauges in, and trouble shot it this morning with my test light and found out that if I ground the wire that should have gone to the temp sensor, the fan kicks on. So I grounded it and it works all the time now with the key on. Is this ok to do? I know this should've been in the electrical thread, but I figured I already got this one......so...input?
i've had to "hard wire" fans before. it's not going to hurt anything being on all the time, but it'll take longer to reach operating temp. in the winter, that's a bitch. i swear these motors are cold blooded.
You took out your fan switch and installed the sender for the gauge in it's place?
There is no need for the fan to run all the time on these things. As mentioned they can be pretty cold-blooded as it is sometimes.
At the very least wire in a switch to that ground wire so you can turn it off when it's not needed.
Another option would be to relocate the fan switch.
when i sold my 85, that's how it was set up. he knew about it and was fine with it. about a month later, his wife took it for a drive and overheated it.
you have to be careful with that type of setup.
I will wire in a switch this weekend prolly, just needed it to work for the drive to work and back until then. I wanted to take the temp sending unit out but someone else tried before me and rounded the all off. So I just took the fan switch out and didn't realize it was what it was until this morning when it got hot. Thanks all
brian
Why not just take your test light and see if it turns one when the car is at the right temp. If the light turns on then the sender is good. If not replace the sender. I don't really like the switch idea. It will work in a pinch. I know how it is to have to wait until payday.
Well, its not the payday thing, but weekends are my days for playing in the garage. well, Saturday is really, but I took the sensor out to put in the mechanical temp gauge. I couldn't get the temp sending unit out due to the fact that someone else who worked on her before rounded off the edges. Soooooo...out the fan switch came. I didn't throw it away because when I pull the engine out to rebuild it or the trans, I can more easily get to that temp sending unit. The payday thing was last week.;)
brian
There is a box right below the air filter. I assume its the charcoal canister thing. Do I really need this or can it be romoved with no real side effects?
Also, if someone could, post some pictures of where and how they rigged up an intercooler to the pre-intercooler cars? I really want to do this mod, but need a better idea of how and where is the best place and things to use. Thanks
brian
Do you want to do a front mount??? or get a newer hood, and just do a top mount
If the box under the air filter has two ports at the top, with a vacuum line running into it, then it is your charcoal canister. I left mine there.
I assume you're interested in installing the top-mount intercooler?
When I did mine, I didn't want to cut off the s of my compressor housing. You would have to do this, of course, for the coupler.
Instead, I took the stock charge tube and cut it off about 1.5" from the , right up to where the heat sink was. I smoothed out the metal and bolted it back onto the compressor housing.
I then rotated the housing counter-clockwise far enough to match up another pair of bolt holes for the wastegate bracket. I'm sure that's confusing to read.
In short, I didn't want to move the location of the wastegate actuator, so I just clocked the housing until the next pair of holes lined up. This put the outlet of the modified charge tube at about 9 o' clock.
While this setup has worked so far, I've been battling boost leak issues and intercooler fitment. I can't even get an intercooler bracket to fit in there.
I've already modified another T3 compressor housing for a better setup. The has been removed and smoothed. I'll try to attach a picture.
(http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/00003451/comp_lip2.jpg)
I don't know yet. I don't want to change the hood, but I am not looking forward to running pipes to the front and back either.
About that canister, I put one of them there K&N look alikes on there so the hose that ran to the old air filter isn't being used. You say you left yours there but I would like mine to go away for possibly the intercooler.
Also, is the hood a problem the the intercooler? I was really considering mounting there but I was concerned about heat issues. Or did you mount a fan on it too?
brian
Well, you'll need the TC hood, of course. I did not mount a fan on mine. The top-mount intercooler is more than sufficient for my needs right now. I'll go with a FMIC whenever I begin working on the car this winter.
Thanks dude. I appreciate it. Anyone else wanna step up before I go and cobble something together?
Brian
Can the injectors be pulled without pulling anything else? Or does part of the intake have to be taken off? I think I already know the answer but...you never know. THanks
Brian
I've always been able to undo the 2 bolts holding the rail to the lower intake, unclip the fuel lines and pop the injectors out of there bores. The slide the fuel rail out the to the front. No problem. Save yourself the need of buying a new Plenum gasket.
Well, good news for a change. Thanks ipsd! Appreciate it.
Brian
...........swapping computer and putting brown top injectors in tomorrow. Hopefully everything goes smoothly enough to put the intercooler in.