ok i just purchased 2 Kicker Solobaric L7 12" Woofers with 2 2000 Watt MDX Amps. and all i need to know is that if there is anyone that has ever put there backseat on hinges or made there back seat of their 87 so it can fold down therefor letting all the bass in the cab? cuz to get it to sound good i have to take my rear speakers out. and i have some nice alpines in the back that i dont want to take out. so is there anyway i could do this?
I've got a kicker L7 in a sub-zero box in the trunk of my 88 right now. It fires up, and back, toward the trunklid, hits alright, but isn't loud enough for my liking. I've got a 1600w amp on it.
I also have a a homemade box with 2 R-F 12's in it, till one let go one me...i had the 1600w amp on them, and it felt like it was gonna tear the car apart.
That was with the seat in, but all speakers were firing towards the rear of the car...it wasn't show quality in apperarance or decibels, but it's more than enough for me.
Of course, I also cut a 12" hole in my rear deck, it's got the covering over it, but it acts as a bit of a port.
Looking for a pair of matched R-F's to go back in...
some one here or one Cougar Nuts ported a box into the armrest hole with a tubefrom the box into the seat.
you could do a dual hole port into the armrest or a big square one and cut out the center support and make some new braces.
You could always run them free air and seal the trunk form the interior. Then you don't need the seat to fold down. The sound has no place to go but into the cabin. Then you also cut down the cancelation that you have with the regular box in the trunk with a seat and such for the sound waves to bounce around and cancel each other out. You can also do it with a box but you need to seal the front of the box to the interior of the car. The whole idea is this way you make the interior like a box the the speaker is firing into. Basiclly it would be like sitting inside the speaker box. It isn't that hard. I sounds awsome.
got some pics of this or a drawing? i dont understand the front of the box sealed to the interior
well the best way to explain it would like this. You would remove all the rear interior panels, back seat, rear deck carpet and pading. Also remove the rear deck speakers. Then clean up the whole area real nice. Then start pluging holes. I used duck tape on the bottom side of the rear deck then fiber glassed over them, the bigger holes I covered with masoite and glassed over them. I then drilled out the factory spot welds on the seat back area to make to large openings. Then I covered the whole area with 2 sheets thick 3/4" ply wood. I also expand foamed in the recessed areas to help seal it all up. Then you would mount the subs' behind the seat. If you want them to be in a box build the box so that the front of the box is the big board that the subs are in. Also in my car I didn't cover the 6x8 holes I used 2 layers thick 3/4" ply wood with a 10" sub cut out on the underside of the rear deck. Then I also mounted a set of 10"s sus along with the 12"s that are on the main back board. Hope that sums it up for ya. here is a pic inside the trunk. it is hard to see the 10"s unless you bend down.
its been mentioned already, but ive seen ports installed where the rear center arm rest folds down. it was 2 4" ish ports, one on top of the other. i put one in the deck as well at one point.
In my bird I put 2" spacers between the rear speakers and the package tray, sounded a whole lot better and all it took was 16" of fuel tubing and longer bolts. Worked fine.
see im tryin to do not as much cutting bcuz i am unexperienced when it comes to that
With the free air setup there is not cutting just drill out the factory cross brace spot welds. See no cutting just drilling.:D it really isn't that hard and it willl give you the most bang for the buck and still leave you with lots of trunk space. Also it would be lighter that the box type setup.
i did mine kinda like that but i built a box around the back of the speakers. from looking in the trunk all you see is the amp on the new back wall of the trunk and from inside it looks stock. i put a pair of pioneer 12s in it and it bumps harder than i thought it would (by a whole bunch)
After realizing that my boxes are 3/4" too tall without spacers (hit the rear 6x9's), I'm going to go this route. Curious though, how's the strength of the rear deck and behind the back seats now? The brace is pretty flimsy, but doesn't flex too much so it adds a bit of support to the center brace and up at the top corners where the seat cushion hangs. Have any other p[ictures of the install, or just the finished product? I'm thinking that just about any board will work fine as long as its sealed on the sides, and will add in its own support for the seat.
Just using a couple Eclipse 10's, but I don't think there's room for anything larger than an 8 with that brace in there. The Eclipses have a lot of excursion (500w rms) (will only be powered at half power though) so it needs plenty of room in front of the driver.
Also, anyone have any tips on how I should wire up everything? My latest thinking is to run the 6x9's and door 6.5's off of the same channels to do a 2ohm load (highpassed around 100hz), run the subs each off of their own bridged channels, and run the 3.5's off of the headunit. This is with a Pioneer P960MP headunit and a JL E6450/6ch amp. Gives the 6x9's and 6.5's each about 60w (down from 85 if given their own channels), subs 230w each, and 3.5's 22w each - all estimated at 13.5v.
I'd run the 6.5s and 3.5s from the amp, and the 6x9s from the headunit.
Seek the rear deck and seat back areas are very strong. I only have the pics of the fininshed product. Can't find my pics of the process since I've moved. To help explain a little better. I cut th seperate pieces of 3/4" plywood to fit in the openings where the braces used to go. I bolted them into position.I then cut one big piece to fit across the whole opening area. And bolted it down on top of the other pieces of wood and the metal. This sandwiched the metal between the wood and it made it very strong. I also used some metal brackets at the bottom bolted to the wood and welded to the car for added strengh. Then I coated every thing I fiber glass. If you have any questions let me know even PM I'd be glad to help. Also get ready if you do it this way to have Extreme LOw ENd!!! With this setup you are basiclly sitting inside the speaker box. Very much worth the effort. The more sealed you can get it the better it is. Also this cuts out any cancelation that happens when the box is just sitting in the truck and the sound waves canel each other out. This way the waves can't get to each other and cancel.
He doesnt want to cut anything but you're trying to get him to weld and fiberglass? Doesn't sound all that simple to me.
In my car, to get more bass into the cabin I removed the stock sound deadener from behind the rear seat and also removed my 6x9s. IMO, rear speakers aren't necessary if you have a properly powered front stage. I also have sound deadener applied throughout my trunk and floor.
howd you get 6x9's in in the first place? drill new holes?
For the last year I've just used a couple 8 or 12" bungee cords to pull my 6x9's up into the rear deck. Left the grill on the speaker and put foam pieces around the outter edge to prevent vibration. Has worked great for me and I don't "really" need subs to get frequencies below 60hz (estimate on adjusting the crossovers) at low to medium volumes. 6x9's can't handle the bottom end at higher volume levels though, which is the reason why
I picked up a couple 10's that I hope will be enough surface area. Don't really want to add another amp for larger subs - already using most of my 130A alternator's current.
That rear window with 6x9's back there do really well with giving you decent low end.
Ignore the wandering foam (haven't touched it in 6 months). A couple pieces didn't stay in place when I stuck it on.
Driver side (http://"http://home.comcast.net/~seekproj/driver.jpg")
Passenger Side (http://"http://home.comcast.net/~seekproj/passenger.jpg")
From the interior - under factory grills (http://"http://home.comcast.net/~seekproj/top.jpg")
Otay in mine I mounted the 10's under the rear deck. I cut out wood to fit where the 6x8's were and screwed them down then put the 10's in from the bottom. You don't have to get as elborate as I did but you would still benefit from sealiong the truck up from the interior of the car. Those 10's should sound pretty good in the rear deck.
? Was just planning on putting them where you have your 12's. Cut out some holes in the sound deadening material and it should work well. The next step will be adding some sound deadening from the firewall back to the rear deck, adding a bunch of random foam directly behind the subs. Plan on a false trunk wall with some type of light/breathing material hiding the amplifier. Not like that space back there is usable for anything else, being so deep and shallow.
With actual subs, I may end up going back to some Eclipse 5x7's or something in the rear deck (6.5's perhaps). The ones I owned had VERY good midrange and higher frequencies - the 6x9 Kappas I can't hear much other than mid-bass. Soundstage is great in the front seat, but from the back its miserable. Thinking about it, moving my 3 way door speakers to the rear deck and putting my component 6.5 woofers in the door, with the proper crossovers, may be a great choice.
3.5's are Eclipses
6.5 sets are Infinity Kappa 60.5i without tweeters and Kappa 63.5i's
6x9's are Kappa 693.5i
Last of the 4 ohm Kappa series. I don't really like anything they offer in the mids-highs. Reference speakers I had before the 6x9's had much better midrange, but still didn't seem as "smooth" as the 5x7 Eclipses.
That doesn't sound to bad. Except the unless you seal the back wave of those woofers from the back of those 5x7"s or what ever you put abck there. They will act like a passavie radiator and tear up the speaker more than anything. Just another note about put the 10"s under the rear deck when you open the trunk you don't see them unless you bend down and look up at them.