I just put in my new TCI AOD this weekend. Summit TCI-431000 Streetfighter $1259- Summit TCI-432700 Saturday Nite Converter $296- Summit TCI-438000 Deep Finned alu. pan. $152- May seem expensive but remember I can't get a hold of anything here in Norway. Rebuilding the old one would mean long time no car. This one is good stuff, newest case and all the mods. Guy who had the car before me hauled a housetrailer each summer. So the old one was mushy slipping and geared up and down, up and down on steep hills. Been waiting since May, shipment got 'lost i space' before it finally came here. You guys who want crisp shifts then this is it. In fact its neck snapping hard for a daily driver. Installation went ok, the usual rusted exhaust bolts etc. Had to make an adapter plate cause the floor shift wire is now an inch to long, go figure? A word of warning, the deep pan drain bolt is now the lowest point on the car. So you who have slammed the car down wouldn't want this. Some future day with a couple hundre more HP from the stock 5.0 and it'll have some real work to do.
More watts is more amps. The battery is staying at 12volts. If you don't want to burn up your switches then put in relays. Relays will also make them brighter, cause theres less voltage drop directly from the battery. I beleive the xxxK temperature indicates color not brightness. Remember white is the presence of all colors. Ever seen TV where they dress people in blue and use blue light? Then you can't see the blue stuff.
My two cents worth. What I don't see mentioned here is the length and heat range. Every combustion chamber has a 'sweet spot' where ignition will do you the most good. Longer or shorter plugs and your getting out of the bull's eye. The length that the electrode protrudes out from the base determines its ability to heat and cool. Longer for a downtown sluggy run and shorter for performance high speeds. To long and you've got a ping. Of course way to long and bang the piston gets you. Sure try other plugs but keep these factors in mind.
1) Look for a vacuum leak, those old plastic vacuum lines are brittle. 2) The EGR selenoid can been cleaned so it moves easy. It carbones up a bit. 3) Rich cold idle selenoid can be cleaned and one drop of oil so it moves easy. Its right beside the TPS. 4) Increase the idle mechanical stop screw which stops your gas wire on intake butterfly (underside where TPS is). 1/4 turn on mine fixed the problem.
IF they are from Ebay diamonds777 then they are great. Complete new lense and reflector, just add bulb. The adjustment bracket mounting is not included. Watch those screws!! they were imbeded in the plastic 20 years ago and pull out if you over tighten them.
I havn't got the manual A/C so I can't give exact details. But an overheated switch is probably never going to be good again. Burnt contacts and bent arms won't take much current before there gone again. Most of our switches are pretty easy to replace.
More torque sounds good, got a part number? I like the way your paint job looks. In fact the whole compartment is outstanding. 3/4 inch must stretch every connection to the upper. Everything reach ok? Hood closes?
Hi heres how they look. Summit FMS-M-6000-J302R $150- Yes they do fit on a 5.0 injection. But you have to loosen and lift the air intake system to get them on. Luckily my intake gasket stayed whole so I could just bolt it on again. You need new longer bolts, the casting is to thich for the originals. I used new reusable gaskets FEL-VS13264T $32- With cleaning off the old cork pieces and moveing the holes for the throttle wires bracket the job took 4 hours.
The heatsink is to cool the transistor which was used instead of a resistor. The motor has two wires and accepts 12v for full speed. Connect the fan directly to the battery if it goes full speed its the regulator thats a problem. I think its the same fan in all models. The housing is plastic mine was deformed by years of heat so it slowed the blade cage down. A little muscle and a hairdryer put it back in shape.