It's good you fixed it. If the water pump was original it may have been your problem. The water pump is stupid easy to do. The only thing you really have to worry about is breaking the two lower bolts on each side of the pump that go through the timing cover. They have a tendency to snap off as they pass through a water jacket and can get crusty.
Yea some of the bolts were a bit aged, but not as bad as I had as I thought they would be. Does anyone know where I can get some new bolts for it? I really wanted to put new ones in it this time around, but I couldnt find any. Autozone had some that would fit, but did not have a complete set. If it every comes down to it i could always make my own, but I dont mind taking the easy route sometimes and spending the few extra bucks.
Sorry it's been so long since I've added my status to this post, but a few things came up and the the cougar was on hold for a bit. I usually like to finish a post so that anyone else searching the forums can get any help they need by just reading previous postings. So...I drained and flushed the system again. Put a new thermostat (like the 4th or 5th one). This time is was a Valucraft 192 degree from Autozone. This is the only one I could find with a weep hole that actually locked into place like the original manuals say they should. I also took off the water pump and replaced it even though when I took off the original it still looked brand new. I thought I'd throw the new one on there since I already had it all apart. And too anyone is the future who wants to remove the water pump, it is not as hard as it looks. Took me about 2 hours at most. Just make sure you keep the bolts in the right order since all of them are different sizes.And use a torque wrench at 16-18lbs. So with the new thermostat, water pump, radiator cap, radiator, temp sending units and fan clutch. It now heats up a bit below the half way mark even though it takes a good time before it reaches it that. I'll just say that is due to the outside temperatures and say it is good for now. I'm not sure what fixed the problem to be honest since the last thing I changed the was the water pump(even though the other looked brand new) and another thermostat at the same time. But I can recommended the Valucraft for when you have to change your thermostat since it's the only one that seem to lock in place for me.
I am late to the party, but for future reference. The thermostat is supposed to have a weep hole to allow air to pass when it is closed. If an air pocket is trapped in the housing the stat won't open. Look closely at the valve disc in the stat. You will see a tiny nick in the edge.
I did notice this thermostat looked a little different than the one I pulled out. It was extremely flat compared to any thermostat I have seen before. You know how there is usually like a rim or ripple. Sorry if that sounds weird. It's the best I can explain what I'm talking about without a pic, lol. Also my original did have something close to a small rivet through a hole that jiggled back and forth that looked as if it could be the weep hole you are talking about. If the one I have in now does not have the weep hole that could be causing the overheating problem?
I didn't get to take pictures yet today since it was raining for most the day and I didnt want to be out there since I'm already sick so I'll try again tomorrow.
I would double check that you have the correct radiator. Can you post pictures of the radiator and maybe we can help you determine just by looks if its the right one? If you can, show how where and how its not fitting correctly.
I checked the part number on the box and checked online and it says it is the correct one. I will try to take pictures later today when I get back home. Everything fits fine except on the driver side where the radiator meets the brackets.
Okay So I changed the radiator today. I don't consider myself the best of mechanics, but I know how to do simple things and this radiator was a pain! It was the Ready-Rad Radiator 433556. The directions said to supposedly just clip the rubber inside of the mounting brackets on the driver side and it will fit right in. There is no way this radiator will fit to the stock brackets. The bottom driver side of the radiator is way bigger than the bracket itself even with out the rubber. And the top bracket would be big enough to fit over the top, but it isn't long enough to reach the radiator to hold onto it. Has anyone installed this before? Am I just completely messing this up somehow? I have it installed and it sits safe enough for now, but I will work up a custom bracket to fit it better soon. Also with the kit came transmission line adapters? It seemed like the old lines fit right into the radiator. I kept them in case I am supposed to be using them. Am I supposed to a union between the original lines fittings and the "adapters"? I need to go buy more anti-freeze tomorrow to top it off, so I'll let ya'll know if they cooling issue is fixed or not.
Sorry for the delay in the replies. I've been pretty sick for a few days so I haven't been working on the car. I will be changing the radiator tomorrow because I'm thinking that might be the problem even though the radiator "looks new" from what I can see. And I'll go from there and let ya'll know what happens. I do have to say that I change my fan clutch the other day and it really improved my car idle. It no longer surges. Didn't fix the overheating, but it did help something else so it was a bad try, haha.
I'm not the one that actually took the pictures. I found it online. I wouldn't have taken the chance of taking the pictures with my camera...it could have broken it.
Now you know what a lobster feels like! LoL. But glad you weren't seriously hurt though. I got the Stant cap from Advanced. The only kind they had. I think it was made in like Mexico, but seemed to be pretty much the same design as my original.
If you look down in the radiator with the cap off, do the end of the tubes have a bunch of corrosion on them? If these are like this on the ends, they are probably not flowing well throughout the core of the radiator.
What does your oil look like? Have you changed the plugs lately? If so did any of them appear wet/glazed with a green tint? I am not narrowing out a leaking head gasket or cracked head.
The radiator looks new inside. I'm not sure how old it is since I've haven't had the car for a year yet. I've had the oil changed about 1000 miles ago and it looks good still. Plugs and wires were changed about 8 Months ago. When I did change them they looked pretty good. Not wet at all, just a bit of carbon build up on them. Wouldnt a leaking head gasket or cracked head cause it to overheat quickly? and all the way? It takes a long time before it will even get 3/4s of the way up.
Well if it sucks down the coolant the core might be clogged up. Sucking down means the core is stopped up. Look down the tank and see if you can see the core flow capillaries. Rev the engine and see if coolant is flowing through the entire core. If the coolant hits the sides of the tank the core is stopped up and a new radiator is in your future. Sounds like the pump is OK. You can check the fan clutch by rotating it with the engine off. See if it has resistance. Then start the car and see if the fan spins at a good speed. If it does not it is shot!!
Would another sign of a clogged radiator be that when I have my cap open on the radiator trying to bleed out the air the overflow seems to fill up and the level of the radiator itself goes down just a little bit?
