I've kinda stopped visiting the site because I have been doing things with my other cars and home remodel. My Bird has been on hold. With a battery, she's fully functional and legal to drive with the exception of the parking brake. Perhaps in a few months I will address that issue. The site seems to be doing well, and much better after a certain someone has been banned. I really like seeing some of the older members now partiting. Just wanted to say Hi!
Oh, dear lord! I started reading this tread because I am interested in the Quarterhorse system. Now I learn that you are using Chrysler parts on your Bird. I have a hard enough time making parts from all different year models of Ford work in harmony, to add in something from a Chrysler? Whew! Not meaning any disrespect here. Foe, if anyone can do it, you can.
I would be sure to check the rotor run-out on the car. With the wheel removed, fasten the rotors down with lug nuts. Attach the base of the tool to something solid on the car. Then, put the gauge part against the rotor. Spin the rotor by hand slowly and see if the needle moves.
Go ahead and check the run-out on the rotors. Sometimes new parts have problems. Also, if the calipers are not sliding properly, stopping will create heat on just one side of the rotor, thus warping them. I see not mention of the rear brakes. Sometimes a vibration can travel and make you think it is coming from the front, when it is really coming from the rear. Have those drums been turned?
This would bring up a red flag with me, was it a reman unit ?
I used a new 93 cobra MC and bleeding it wasn't bad at all, it was my first time bench bleeding a MC too.
Yes, it's reman. If I remember correctly, the problem was with the bleeder kit. I can't remember if one of the plastic pieces did not fit, or if it even came with the kit at all. Either way, I made one hellova mess. The pedal is much firmer than what it was with the Cobra unit, but still is just not right. She'll stop on a dime though.
Pretty much all of the parts stores have them but Rock Auto will have the best price. I just looked and O'Reillys has the two rear cables and the intermediate for about $90 tax and all if you pay their list price.
Darren
Local parts stores said it was unavailable. I see that a lot where they show it on line, but can't get it at the stores. I'm just happy to hear that someone still makes them!
Darren, when I completed the backside, I swapped the 93 Cobra MS to a 95 GT MS. I guess air in the lines could be the big problem. I'll purchase that bleeder and give it a try. I could use one anyhow. I was pushing the pedal down and wedging a block of wood between it and the dash, then open a bleeder at a wheel. When the fluid was getting close to stopping, I would close the bleeder and then remove the wood and pump it up. I wonder if there is still air in the MC. Bench bleeding did not go very smoothly.
Ha Ha, that's too funny! I read the title of the thread and went straight to the pics. Just imagine my confusion when I saw new Cougars on an assembly line! Now that I understand that the pics are the purchase, good find!
Well, this can go on and on. He should have been gone a long time ago. Let's move forward. Can anyone think of people that have been ran off by Renzo's attitude? It's time to track these people down, and let them know about his leaving. Let's get some people back!
I believe that the Mark VII uses the same parking brake cables as the TC. It may be easier to find those cables than the TC cables.
Even those are difficult to find in this neck of the woods. I'm currently running without a parking brake. My inspection is due in October. Between now and then, I'm going to see what I can find with the "Locar" company.
It's pretty much just a typical axle swap. If you can get your hands on a tranny jack to do it with, it makes it much easier. I couldn't use the quad shocks because I couldn't get the bolt out on the driver side of the donor car, and was worried about making holes in the frame so close to the gas tank. Tank removal on both cars would have solved my problems, but I just didn't want to do that. My tailpipes would have been a issue also. If you can make them fit, that's great, but I wouldn't worry about it if it becomes a hassle. I don't think those are very needed on our cars. As for the prop valve, just swap it. Mine has a 5-lug conversion with MarkVII rear brakes, and the TC prop valve works just fine. I don't see why it would be any different with your set up. I wish I would have stayed 4-lug. I would have been happy with TC brakes front and rear, and the TC wheels look pretty sharp when polished. Would have saved me a lot of time and money.
I've got the 95 GT master cylinder with the setup listed above. Stopping power is great, however, the pedal seems a little soft. Any suggestions? Darren? My front calipers are SN95. Will going to the 99 PBRs help the pedal feel or make it worse? And also, will the 99 PBRs change the bias?
93 Cobra brake booster is a must. I have the SN95 setup in front and MarkVII in the rear, and bias is perfect with a TC prop valve. Don't use spacers between the strut and spindle, use the correct strut. This would be the time for suspension upgrades. LX springs need to go. If you don't want to lower your ride, use sport springs front and rear. LX springs will give quite a nosedive during stopping after the brake upgrade. I had difficulty finding 15 inch wheels that would fit. 16x7s are slim pickens. I had to go with 16x8s, which do stick out of the fender a bit. It actually looks pretty awesome, but I have to watch my speed on certain dips in the road.
