Maybe your tailshaft in you trans or steady bearing on your driveshaft if you have one. Or trans mount is gone. Maybe they forgot to tighten something, you have to describe the noise a little, is it a bump, a grinding noise, rubbing noise, how long does it do it, is it worse if you put your foot into it, etc....I'll bet it is something simple
Here is a little update on the issue. I contacted VISA dispute centre and they said it is past 120days we can't help you. So then I explained what all transpired and the lady said the guy took advantage of my kindness and never to let an item go past 45 days without opening a dispute with ebay/paypal and DO NOT CLOSE THE DISPUTE UNTIL ITEM IS IN HAND!! Let that be a lesson for everyone here. Also this torque converter is a piece of , I ballooned the 3500 stall I got from him last year within a few passes and it was more like a 4500 stall. Also if the seller tries to say that paypal put a hold on his paypal account until the dispute is cleared up that is complete bs don't buy it!! Anyways there is another reason why I am quitting cars. I got a whole wall of expensive junk I can't use....
Thanks I will be looking into it. It is pretty tempting to buy a ticket and show up, usually they change their attitude pretty quick when you show up. It seems like these days nobody has any prinls or morals anymore. Thanks again for help guys I'll let you guys know what transpires.
I have been trying to get a torque converter from Luver770 since March 21 of this year. First one got damaged and never arrived. Been fighting with guy ever since. He is no longer answering emails. The listing is item number 120918448572 it is for a big shot torque converter. I bought a 3500 of the same the year before from him with no problems. What me off is I recommended him to a buddy of mine who also got ripped off. I opened a dispute with ebay when I found out there was a problem with package saying it got sent to the undeliverable warehouse in Ontario, Canada. So anyways ebay suggested I resolve the case without escalading it any higher and also the guy said ebay put a hold on the money from his paypal account so he couldn't send it until I closed the case and paypal released the hold on his paypal account, like a fool I dropped the case and a few days later it was past 45 days and he said the converter was on the way a couple times since then, but nothing not even tracking number. I contacted ebay through phone on Tuesday and they won't help at all, they said I should have acted before the 45 days was up, but they are the ones who said to drop the case if possible, that is another thing that is eating me up. The listing says the item was in Aston, Pennsylvannia I got a phone number
(267) 420-0678
I tried phoning but it says the call cannot be completed from my area code. Is this a real business can anyone check this out from the US.
I really haven't been having luck with converters I bought 3 this year, and nothing I can use has arrived. Man a guy just can't win.
There are so many possibilities of what it could be...First did you remember to put oil in the motor? Oil pumps won't pick anything up if its not there, been there done that! I know that sounds stupid, but I just spent 2 hours trying to pull out a cam without taking the fuel pump off (not used to working on non fuel injected cars:)), when things start to unravel for me, sometimes I gotta call it quits for the day and come back with a fresh mind. I don't know how many things I wrecked or ruined because I was too stubborn to recognize that I wasn't in the right frame of mind to keep going from either frustration or tiredness, give it a day think things over, it'll probably come to you in the middle of the night.... good luck
Have patience it takes forever sometimes. Just had the same problem with my sbc in my Camaro. Cranked it over til I killed the starter. Then fired it up and oiled up instantly after I changed the starter. Even if it don't look like it is oiling, if you put assembly lube on the lifters, it might be blocking pushrod passages slightly, takes a bit of oil pressure sometimes before things start lookin right. At least that is my minimal experience, I've only done this a couple times.
That's cool how do you like it? How was the transition from your old computer to the megasquirt?? Been following the megasquirt since it come out, but been scared to dive in on one.
Go with the felpros and studs should be good for your event if you don't run it to much. Retorque heads after first run up. I usually go 15 to 20 pounds more torque than factory specs. Welcome to the world or boost my friend. Always bring a spare set of heads gaskets with you if you are running at events all the time. I have done one in a parking lot before. I don't have experience with graphite gaskets so I can't comment there not sure if machining is required, the felpros are a good choice if machining is not an option. The next size thicker gasket might be an idea too if this is becoming a problem. I take it you didn't retorque the head bolts before you boosted it?? They are pr0ne to stretching over time. I am by no means an expert, but I got a lot of experience with turbo cars, before all these fancy new gaskets came out, felpros were always the one of choice; especially in turbo buicks.
I am gonna jump in here from personal experience. Hyper pistons are cheap alternative for a street engine that doesn't see too much boost or nitrous. Now another good thing is no piston slap at startup due to very little thermal expansion. One MAJOR drawback is if you drop a valve your whole motor gets DESTROYED!! These pistons disintegrate if they make contact with a valve. I have had a couple modified sbc forged race engines destroy the valve train on one whole side of the motor in a qualifying run. Took the head off ground the tops of a couple pistons smooth put another head on and won the main. Done it twice now (not winning them main just similar engine failure). So what I am saying is choose your application wisely if this is going to just a daily driver under 400hp to wheels hyper is fine, but boost and nitrous are generally a no no. Go into an engine shop and ask for hyper pistons and tell em you wanna run a 200 shot of nitrous, see what they say... hopefully that wasn't too much of a hijack
Do you find that your light throttle upshifts are a little on the violent side? I have solid motor mounts and solid trans mount, when the thing shifts you definitely don't want an open beverage in the car. With the turbo kit at wide open the shifts seem to smooth out quite a bit, but when it was just a plain jane non so 302 I couldn't even get it to 5k rpm upshift until I got 3.73s. I am used to vehicles kicking like a mule when they shift, but my wife and kid are not too into it:)
Probably little over 450 to wheels, little tires (10inch) and a stock aod with transgo shift kit and 5k governor. I am gonna go lock up if it fails then I will upgrade the guts to accept a non lock up 2500 stall aode converter I have sitting here. The blower is gonna be underdriven quite a bit.
I am not a fan of organic friction surfaces, but it is a nice setup minus that. I prefer sintered iron over organic. That is a really nice clutch, probably lighter than stock pedal pressure, going aluminum flywheel??
I realize that there's a difference between static and dynamic compression. I am not sure what the dynamic compression (real world compression) would be versus the static compression (or calculated compression); I am not clear with the subject that is why I started the thread. I am also not sure how much compression a lumpy street cam bleeds off or the difference a thicker head gasket makes. Also when people are stating what compression ratios are good for what octane, is that the calculated compression or real world compression??
