Well I saw somewhere a b&m shifter that ended up further back that would help with the T-5 swap. but the M5R2 looks to be just as strong as the T-5, and as far as I can tell both swaps require a swap of driveshafts. What shaft is used when going with the T-5? The M5R2 just uses the 5sp driveshaft from a 5sd T-bird. Also when I look at the T-5 and M5R2 it looks like the t-5 would place the shifter a lot further towards the rear of the car and the m5r2 would be much futher forward....which will be closer to the factory floor shifter that is in it now? ~Rich
Oh I found some specs on SC cars. 89-93 M5R2 1st 3.75 2nd 2.32 3rd 1.43 4th 1.00 5th 0.75 R 3.26 94-95 M5R2 1st 3.42 2nd 2.16 3rd 1.34 4th 1.00 5th 0.75 R 3.26 Is the bell the same? ~Rich
I have done some reading on these trannies and they seem to be quite strong...some are saying much stronger than the T-5? I believe they were used in the super coupes too but they were also used in ford trucks all over. Anyone have torque numbers on these? All I can find is this: The M5OD aka M5R2 has the following ratios in an F-150: 1st: 3.90 2nd: 2.25 3rd: 1.50 4th: 1.00 5th: 0.80 Reverse: 3.39 Also if a truck tranny is used where does the shifter sit at? It looks to be more in the middle of the tranny as the T-5 sits what looks to be much further back. I am looking for options in my 92 5.0 ~Rich
Hmm do you have a name or link to a website? This is all turbo coupes. I am looking for upgrade tips on my 5.0 The 94-95 ecu sounds good.....would like to learn more on the swap though
I am just wondering where to get the 140mph speedo that I have seen in a few T-Birds? I am amusing they are coming from the mustangs. I have a 92 5.0 and yes I know I am currently speed limited due to the factory program in the ecu, but this is gonna change soon :burnout: ~Rich
well i know its not zero load but it seems like it (clutch fan) would cause more resistance to the pulley system and drag the engine down more than a higher electrical load on the alternator would. Im not really saying im going to do any of this (yet) im just going through ideas in my head and throwing them out there to see what you guys think - most of you are quite a bit more knowledgeable with these cars than i am:bowdown:
A clutch fan is actually better on drag than a normal fan. On the fan idea.... the tiny bit that you might gain(maybe 1hp at peak rpm) would not be worth the time. Now eliminating the a/c and smog might get you a couple(most of it being the loss when the a/c is on). Also the elimination by using a short belt is actually quite easy and generally cheap. I think on yours it was a 76 or a 79 inch belt. Mine was 85.5 6rib belt but mine is a 92. I myself would not even take off the smog because when you have to get it inspected you might have problems. I kept my old belt in the trunk for inspection time and come spring I will get one to get my a/c back. ~Rich
Generally 100lbs = 1/10th of a sec on the 1/4mile So the weight plus the tiny gain from less drag might get -0.005 quicker time. But the time and money spent will proably out weigh the benifit. I bypassed mysmog and a/c by ussing a smaller belt and left the parts on so come inspection time I can reconnect the smog. My bearings are going bad in my smog so I needed to. ~Rich
in addition, you can also remove the idler pully, grind off a 1/4'' on the stop where the pully lever hits. that also gives you a wider range of belt sizes.
Well on my 92 the top bolt on the altenator would rub if not for the idler pulley off-setting the belt. ~Rich
I know that most everyone on here runs 88 and under but I have a 92 5.0 T-Bird and have a bad smog pump. I found that a 855K6 Duralast belt 1/2" larger or smaller will work too. I dont know as of yet what will fit for keeping the a/c. I will find out the size of it once warmer weather comes back. ~Rich