The TC driveshaft has a damper at the tranny end that will come apart and raise havoc. If you have this damper it's time to check it out. Most people remove them with no issues after they fail.
If you choose to trigger relays with the existing lighting circuits, it would be best to do it with a new or known good switch. My car did the lights off move on me several times before I changed the switch and the used one I picked up is working fine. The high beams stay off unless I really need them now though.
I don't know if anyone is upset, I just couldn't see why anyone would say anything negative about the NATO site. I've never had any trouble over there.
Hey now!!! why would anyone over at farking nut hole nato be any smarter than us on these cars,,,,,,,,,,,, i hate dumb ass suggestions like that.:shakeass: I see it more often than i like.
Will be at Cecil Co. Raceway on 10/27/07. This is a TnT day at the track and a few others from NATO and TF should be there as well. You don't have to have anything special or even race, it's just nice to meet up with others that you only get to see thru the eye's of the interweb. All are welcome to join in the fun.
Also, I plan to get that ellusive 11.XX slip out of my Bird. This is it's last track day as a street car before I start tearing into to make it a race car that can be street driven. Wish me luck.
I have to crush the rubber boot on the rear trans seal to get my shaft out. The yoke rides right up to that boot installed. Not sure what the minimum would be.
As many of you know, the object of a shift kit is to make the engagement faster with less slip. Less slip = less wear and heat on the clutch materials. If your trans is still functioning properly, a shift kit should add life to it.